poppit question

**XstreamVking** · 12-07-2019, 11:10 AM

Check the OD of the alum mounts compared to the stock mounts. I have had to reduce down some alum mounts before to the correct OD. They were bobs mounts.

**KIRCHNER** · 12-07-2019, 01:37 PM

i have to measure the distance from ctr/line of mount bolts to the top of can. ill compare that to the bottom of 1pc [top of can] to the threaded mount ho les in 1pc. 2pc is 3.5 thick 1pc same. that should tell me if the can is low or tiller is too high. am i thinking correctly. or i can measure the distance on the original 20'' tiller bolts c/l to top of that can. maybe the 1pc tapped holes are higher than the 2pc bolt holes. need to find out if can is low or tiller is high, as you mentioned. am i explaining thingc correctly? IM taking the long way home, 3 down already. this SUCKS!!!!!

**tlwjkw** · 12-07-2019, 02:12 PM

tha adapter holes will not change.. tha two lower bolts and/or studs (standard on tha offshore can) will not change.. tha length of tha "can" itself is what needs ta be checked.. they took material out of tha can somewhere in-between tha bottom bolts/studs and top of can... same with tiller if they cut it to... either way sounds like they missed at least one of tha two.. if you have a gap between tha adapter and can your only option is to have a fab shop cut you a filler (1/8"?) just like tha "gasket" some use between tha adapter and can... if i'm readin' ya right???

are tha 2 holes in tiller 1/2 or 7/16"?

**KIRCHNER** · 12-07-2019, 05:26 PM

the holes in the 15'' tiller are larger and used hex cap bolts,threaded into 1pc adpt. 2pc adaptor uses long 8'' 7/16 thru mounts with a washer/ nut.1pc adapt is solid piece. blind tapped 1/2''. i was thinkin water jet or cnc filler gasket for template, if i cant solve alignment issue..

**KIRCHNER** · 12-07-2019, 05:37 PM

Originally Posted by XstreamVking

Check the OD of the alum mounts compared to the stock mounts. I have had to reduce down some alum mounts before to the correct OD. They were bobs mounts.

the mounts and 2pc adapt. are a factory combo from a 2.4 200, seems the 15'' can a bit low/short. need to take some measurements to find the error, most likely the cut 15 mid. in going to camare tiller heights. stock v/s offshore.....

**tlwjkw** · 12-07-2019, 06:23 PM

thought they would be that way.. you really need to drill (lathe or drill press etc. ta make sure they are straight) mounts to 1/2" to match tiller.. some just use tha 7/16 bolts but i didn't have total faith in doin' that way.. if ya find that can is short tiller will probably be ok with a fab shop "shim" between can and adapter.. one other choice is "cut and weld" tiller ta match adapter on current can height?.. not to fond of that fix thought.. to much chance of another miscue.... you'll get it figured out....gl.

**KIRCHNER** · 12-07-2019, 07:49 PM

' YEAH, i think mounts have 1/2 holes stock factory. i have a 17' glastron for a test boat to use. tomorrow ill find out whats what. thanks for the encouragement. ART.

**KIRCHNER** · 12-09-2019, 05:16 PM

YES,think ive got it figured out. the can was cut maybe 1 or 2 degrees off. not parallel with swivel/ clamp. removed can, shimmed lower mounts with 2 # 8 washers. now top of mid parallel with long tiller bolts. bottom 1/2 adaptor flush, dropped in mounts, top 1/2 adaptor, flush fit. tightned her down. 1 happy camper. basically prop shaft was not 90 with swivel. thanks to t squares, straight edges, im good!

**tlwjkw** · 12-10-2019, 07:13 AM

what 'bout driveshaft and crankshaft alignment?.. straight or 1 or 2* off?..

**KIRCHNER** · 12-10-2019, 10:02 AM

yes, been dwelling about that. by shimming the lower mts, everything , can, plates moved as a single unit. if its off now, then it was off before. have my fingers crossed! RAN a 1'' alum tube, 6' long thru adaptor and out bottom of mid, checked with 4' t square, laying on top plate surface. perfect 90. l/u is on, shift rod good. its ready for powerhead. the lowerwashers i added brought everything straight and square. this is my last major engine project.

**tlwjkw** · 12-11-2019, 06:36 AM

lower studs are standard on "offshore" (anything with a snout).. but if tha top of tha can surface is off (you say 1 ta 2* off.. compared to what?) is off and not completely parallel with bottom then your driveshaft is not gonna be straight with tha crank.. tha can has ta be completely straight with each other on both ends.. mounts have nothing ta do with it...

just a suggestion.. one way ta checked for

parallel ona questionable can was use of 4 or 6 ft. levels or straight edge of sorts.. thick enough ta clear case studs.. place can on top of one (down center line) settin' on floor then placed other down center line on top of adapter plate.. measure between levels on both ends... if not tha same ya may have a problem.. jus sounds like ya concerned with where tha tiller, clamp are in relation to tha can when tha can is tha main concern that has ta be square top to bottom, side ta side.. jmo.

**KIRCHNER** · 12-11-2019, 03:19 PM

I CAN clamp a straight edge to the cav plate, and lay one on top plate and measure distance between at each end. ill do side to side too. one plus drive shaft is dead center with hole in adaptor, front, back, sides. good suggestion. how precise do you think it has to be? there has to be some tolerance allowable, IMO. Only a short stub of splines makes the coupling. i was concerned at the time with top plate, sitting a little low at the rear, only when i tightened mounts, did the gap show. lower mount washers cured that. now that everything is tightened up. i need to check lowersurface against seated top plate. thanks for the input,ART.

**tlwjkw** · 12-11-2019, 03:30 PM

should be 'bout 1 1/4" go inta tha crank... I don't know what tha allowed tolerance would be "but I do know" you'll know it if it is outta whack pretty quick after tha fact!.. I jus worry 'bout any mid/can that's been cut down.. had a very bad experience with tha first one I had in '81... sounds like ya got it under control though so best of luck to ya.....

**H2OPERF** · 12-11-2019, 08:46 PM

If your not sure about the height, be careful and measure to make sure the drive shaft isn't too long...the older cle with the single Timken drive shaft bearing will probably let you bolt it up by pushing the pinion down but it will not last long if the pinion cant push up and seat the driveshaft thrust bearing under load. Pull up on the drive shaft when measuring the DS height. If its a SM double Timken thrust bearing set up I would drop the powerhead on with out a gasket first make sure it sets down all the way then you ill know its not bottomed out.

**KIRCHNER** · 12-11-2019, 09:42 PM

Originally Posted by H2OPERF

If your not sure about the height, be careful and measure to make sure the drive shaft isn't too long...the older cle with the single Timken drive shaft bearing will probably let you bolt it up by pushing the pinion down but it will not last long if the pinion cant push up and seat the driveshaft thrust bearing under load. Pull up on the drive shaft when measuring the DS height. If its a SM double Timken thrust bearing set up I would drop the powerhead on with out a gasket first make sure it sets down all the way then you ill know its not bottomed out.

I have no history on lower, 1'87 gear im guessing, bobs cone. ill check for bottoming out,thanks.