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Thread: Tps laser help

  1. #1
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    Tps laser help

    trying to get my 2.4 running, i noticed when i move throttle, shutters dont move untill 1/2 throttle, timing is all in. and my tps voltagestays at ooov but will show 7.48v at wot, if i set it at idle the leanest i can get it is 2.4v. with that setting im super rich at idle. all linkage marks line up. im going to try to start it , showing 000v. the tps is nal for an 87 220. have unit clockwise. book says .135v for a A1 ecm, idle setting. all 6 are plugs wet, dark, sluggish response. dont have the know-how to switch to carbs.

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    600$ o good lordy

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    Quote Originally Posted by merc 2.5 View Post
    600$ o good lordy
    600? Aint happin THE whole motor is only worth 1000. a mechanic on here mentioned they rarely ever go bad. i better check my meter thinking if i unplug it, i can use ohm setting to check for dead spots.
    Last edited by KIRCHNER; 11-20-2019 at 09:58 AM.

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    i looked for an hour, couldnt locate that bugger. 600 is crazy.

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    do you have the two air temp sensor wires unplugged on port head when trying to set tps in not sure if the 220 laser is the same as 2.5 efi's never had one ?? they do go bad on the 2.5s i have had several that are no good as well as air temp sensors and ecu that dont recognize the air temp sensors IE they run the same plugged in or unplugged but when used on different ecu they work fine
    Last edited by TEXAS20225; 11-20-2019 at 11:41 AM.

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  10. #7
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    2.4 will have the 2 tan/blk coolant sensor wires. The adjustment procedure was sorta strange back then but the 2.5 method should work fine. At idle any movement will make a big change and can be tricky to get .24 - .26 volts. If the only voltage reading you get is at WOT good chance the TPS is junk.

    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

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    The TPI is a spring return 10K potentiometer . With the TPI connector unplugged and TPI removed from the manifold using your meter set to K Ohms (unless you have an auto-ranging meter )you should read 10K ohms +/- between the orange wire and tan wire (full winding). If not you have and open winding = NG

    Now read between the blue and tan wires with the meter set to ohms and you should read a low resistance value 0 ohms +/- (Pot wiper) . If you manually slowly turn the wiper you should see the ohmic value smoothly increase and decrease as you go up and down with the wiper . Any jumps or dead spots indicate a bad TPI . Do not release the wiper and let it slam against the "Zero" end with the return spring or damage can occur . If you are not using an auto ranging meter as you ohms increase when you are rotating the wiper you will have to manually move the scale into "K Ohms" as the resistance increases towards the full stroke of the wiper otherwise it will appear as if you lose the reading .
    Last edited by H2Okie; 11-20-2019 at 02:39 PM. Reason: ommission

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    TRYed the ohms test, bad idea. instead i held the throttle wide open, set the tps to 7.5v tightened it down. closed throttle gives crazy readings, all ovethe place. put the ijn on, fired up, no lag, little smoke sounds great. better than ever actually, think i got it right on. ill be wrenchin now. off the 20'' and on the 15'' time for a beer!& clam bisque.

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    i think i did see .24-.26v i have a funky meter, has 20 or more settings. thanks dave, ART.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TEXAS20225 View Post
    do you have the two air temp sensor wires unplugged on port head when trying to set tps in not sure if the 220 laser is the same as 2.5 efi's never had one ?? they do go bad on the 2.5s i have had several that are no good as well as air temp sensors and ecu that dont recognize the air temp sensors IE they run the same plugged in or unplugged but when used on different ecu they work fine
    YES, had the 2 head temp wires unplugged.port side. think i just got lucky, having it sound soooo good!

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    Your ECU is reading ALL of the engine's sensor input values TPI , MAP ,coolant temp ,manifold air temp , and adjusting the fuel injector pulses (fuel delivery )based on these input levels .
    Garbage in is going to equal garbage out .
    I believe the TPI sensor is mainly involved from idle to 3000 rpm so adjusting the TPI for WOT value should really not be doing much but hey if it works better now ????

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    After reading the merc tech guide, the head temp sensor could change mixture by 40% rich or lean. the air temp only 10 % if bad. i looked for markings on back of ecu its a A1 or A7. After feb. 87 there was a recall due to rf interference, vendor was suppposed to mark unit with a black dot after #. still sensors remain unchanged. need a test boat/ trailer POS I can dunk it in and hammer it. again thanks for all the help ill send a pic when its 1 pc.

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    Quote Originally Posted by H2Okie View Post
    Your ECU is reading ALL of the engine's sensor input values TPI , MAP ,coolant temp ,manifold air temp , and adjusting the fuel injector pulses (fuel delivery )based on these input levels .
    Garbage in is going to equal garbage out .
    I believe the TPI sensor is mainly involved from idle to 3000 rpm so adjusting the TPI for WOT value should really not be doing much but hey if it works better now ????
    it s sounding great lower is off, cracked the throttle once, awesome.its ready to rock...

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