No power under load

**Merc 2.5** · 11-10-2019, 03:58 PM

The reason I asked bout prop and I agree I SHOULD b able spin 25 but the #s u provided isnt the healthiest either. 120 warm is where is should be or close. I had a mod vp 2.4 , and almost same numbers. but just wouldnt do nothin out of the hole. Ur 175 goes to 100ish. just a guess. so it wont b abke spin that prop no more. I'm not tryin divert u lookin for other issues but again it's not runnin at it's best anymore

**mrichartz** · 11-10-2019, 04:00 PM

So it ran great on the previous owners boat ..
Changed a modified harness.. how long from running on previous owners boat till you ran it on yours?

**Merc 2.5** · 11-10-2019, 04:01 PM

Originally Posted by mrichartz

So it ran great on the previous owners boat ..
Changed a modified harness.. how long from running on previous owners boat till you ran it on yours?

Haha. Well I sure missed that part. Boat weight diffrence?

**Warmstrong** · 11-10-2019, 04:06 PM

Mechanic removed it from the sellers boat around Oct 8th. Installed in on mine about 3 weeks later. I went out with the previous owner around the first of Oct. I have a line on a 3 blade tempest 23p that I may look into along with everything else. The boat is a Ranger 361v that has a max hp rating of 175. Hull weighs around 1200 pounds I believe.

**mrichartz** · 11-10-2019, 04:08 PM

Yea that was the next question the difference in boats.. wouldn't have anything to do with it tho just curious
But did say it was close to right size prop even if a size bigger should still spin it just a few hundred rpms slower +-

But he's saying wouldn't go over 2g so
Those jumped wires were covering for something wrong??
As already mentioned.

**kellytheaker** · 11-10-2019, 05:40 PM

I m not all that knowledgeble but shouldn' the primebulb stay plump - could it be this is just a fuel starvation from fuel pump - . Just a guess and throwing it out there . Is this just running and staying at 2 grand and not starting to miss and snort and die and a restrt is needed . Or is it just still running and not showing those signs . If it' not showing those signs disregard . You might try calling or better dropping by and discuss real quick with rigger that noticed the wireing and ask for some quick checks if he is close that you can try . At what rpm does the high side of the stator change

**Warmstrong** · 11-10-2019, 05:45 PM

It runs great up to 2000 and then just hits a wall and won’t go above. No sputtering or anything. Just won’t go above that. I thought it was the throttle cable at first until I took the cowling off and saw it had full range.

**Capt.Insane-o** · 11-10-2019, 05:47 PM

That motor should have at least 120 lbs. , I'd pull the heads and have a look before spending any money on it. Need to check stator voltages too.

**kellytheaker** · 11-10-2019, 06:04 PM

Sound advice - wasn' sure what compression should be but at least it' even . Like he said check your stator values and see if correct . If not good you could at least just change that and have a running piece just a bit down on the power but useable . Thanks capt.

**Warmstrong** · 11-10-2019, 08:26 PM

I appreciate all the replies. How do I go about checking my stator values? I would be fine if I can just get it to plane out. Not trying to set the water on fire at this point. Put this boat together to get my 14 year old son out on the water. He loves to fish and so do I. I don't fish tournaments right now, just the two of us. Plan is to repower with something new or newer in a few years. This motor was to get by and just get us out on the water in the mean time.

**kellytheaker** · 11-10-2019, 09:10 PM

I dont have a manual for you - somebody hopefully chimes in that could assist with the values you need to ohm out - CDI will have a tech site available and go through the steps on line that you can view . Hope fully that gets you started , their stator may be same values . Go to CDI Electronics - troubleshooting guide , and page down in it and view and you will get most of the info as far as wire colour and ohm numbers to assist you with the task . Your going to have to make a small diagram for the wires at the switchbox or I did when I did mine . CDI is your go to now untill someone more knowledgeble chimes in . It' not too hard either so now you have some tech reading - you need an ohm meter and hope your finding is fruitful . Check twice report back

**Motv18** · 11-10-2019, 11:00 PM

I would redo the compression check. It’s low enough to barely run let alone turn a 25 on any boat.

Good catch on the fuel line.

You might try the the previous owner to see what was fixed by the alleged jumpers.

Btw is the oil deleted? That will leave some wires tied up.

**Warmstrong** · 11-11-2019, 03:05 PM

Major Update:

After watching a YouTube video about the unreliability of Harbor freight compression gauges I decided to try a mechanic grade gauge. Bought the gauge today and re-did the compression test. Results were 120 psi on cylinders 1,3,5, and 6. 125 on 2 and 4. Happy is not even the right word.

**kellytheaker** · 11-11-2019, 03:09 PM

Nice - a positive . Now back to the next basic - ohm the statr .great job stay on it

**mrichartz** · 11-11-2019, 03:11 PM

Yea HF is only good for throw away tools and not compression testers etc they are all garbage as you've found out.. at least it's really good news..
Kind of figured with the fact they were so close