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11-05-2019, 08:42 PM #166000 RPM
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If you’re in break in by chance the 3.0 speed smoke and oil from bleeds and such like crazy
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11-05-2019, 08:54 PM #175000 RPM
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11-05-2019, 09:03 PM #186000 RPM
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I don’t remember specificly if it dumps in to exhaust on 3.0
the gasket me and merc I think is the adapter gasket under the power head. Water and exhaust both flow through it.
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11-06-2019, 11:54 AM #195000 RPM
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11-07-2019, 01:42 AM #20
Does it get to operating temp on both banks?
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11-07-2019, 12:04 PM #215000 RPM
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11-07-2019, 12:16 PM #22Screaming And Flying!
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Blown crank seal?
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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11-07-2019, 12:23 PM #235000 RPM
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11-07-2019, 12:59 PM #24
Ohm spec the air temp and head temp sensor? Those motors have to warm up at idle or they run snotty. And check the fuel pump for a torn diaphragm.
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11-14-2019, 04:24 PM #25
Real early 3.0L had a tendency to crack the exhaust port on the adapter plate. The ones that don't crack will usually burn the gasket out between the ports.
You can run the motor without the lower unit on. You'll have to rig a water hose to the water tube and use a borescope camera with a long whip to look in the exhaust runners. The runners themselves should be dry, the areas around them and a bleed hole in between the ports should be moving water out.
http://parts.promarineusa.com/produc.../30/210/1060/1
The green 27-830 for the early model doesn't have previsions to cool between the ports, they learned their lesson and changed the adapter plate. The late-model 1998 to present uses the 27-831 which lasts a little longer ... but they burn out too ..
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