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Thread: 2.0 Questions

  1. #16
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    There plenty 1 piece heads floating round with what u need, or bunch guys on here can cut u what u need b4 shipping. Contact rock here. He has lots heads , or chris Carson, I'd pitnup a wanted ad

  2. #17
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    What size cc heads should I look for? I already run premium fuel. Thanks

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    Hey guys, tried to do some more research on my engine. I found that my carbs are the good one I believe. They have the 1374-5427 casting numbers. From what I read this makes them the bigger venturi. I am now on the hunt for some 1 piece 28cc heads and am taking the can out this weekend. Tha is for your help.

  4. #19
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    I have this info that might help you identify carburetors....I'm building my own 2.0.....Gordon

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  5. #20
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    On the can and exhaust, I chose to keep the can in place so the super-heated water would not dump onto my waterpump. Here is my "un-proven, un-tested" solution. Gordon

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  6. #21
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    Looks like you have just holesaw cut holes into the can. What size holes did you go with? And the last pic is a cut down tuner?

  7. #22
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    I made a pattern for the exhaust housing out of 1" white oak scrap so that I'd be sure to have 5 evenly spaced holes on each side of the housing (seen in the 2 photos - left and right). The front 4 on each side are 3/8" while the rear one is 1/2" in each housing. The can holes are 1" each, so plenty to relieve the exhaust during initial rev-up from idle. I have a short-shaft (Promax SS) on my Allison that I bought new 20 years ago. One attribute it has over every other outboard I've ever run is that from idle to full rpm, is the absolutely awesome holeshot. The engine never bogs and there are no lost seconds waiting for the water column in the lower unit to be moved by exhaust pressure. The whole idea of the holes for me is not noise, but rather the instant throttle response and holeshots.

    I urge everyone to respect our neighbors - in fact I am really against noise since I often fish near docks early mornings and late evenings. Open exhaust, no can, over-hub props, and 6,000 rpm holeshots are not my thing. I run a 26 Trophy 4 blade on the Allison/Promax SS so I can sneak away from docks and plan to do the same on this 2.0L when I finally get it built and find a boat that I want to put it on.

    That is a 2.4 Bridgeport exhaust tuner # 41941 coming directly from the pages of Bass & Walleye Boats Magazine "Hot Rodding the Mercury 150 V6" October 1998 issue article. I found it on eBay, beadblasted it, and painted with Epoxy coating. Gordon

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  8. Likes TNRoostertail liked this post
  9. #23
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    I had a 1992 2.0 V6 Mercury I purchased new...
    Put a G-Force tuner, two stage plastic reeds and had the heads cc'd to 32. I ran regular 87 gas and turned it to about 6400 on a Baja 186ESS. Picked up a few MPH. Went from a stock laser II to a slightly modified (Rich Booger)Tempest
    Last edited by 4Speed; 10-23-2019 at 01:47 PM.

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gordon02 View Post
    I made a pattern for the exhaust housing out of 1" white oak scrap so that I'd be sure to have 5 evenly spaced holes on each side of the housing (seen in the 2 photos - left and right). The front 4 on each side are 3/8" while the rear one is 1/2" in each housing. The can holes are 1" each, so plenty to relieve the exhaust during initial rev-up from idle. I have a short-shaft (Promax SS) on my Allison that I bought new 20 years ago. One attribute it has over every other outboard I've ever run is that from idle to full rpm, is the absolutely awesome holeshot. The engine never bogs and there are no lost seconds waiting for the water column in the lower unit to be moved by exhaust pressure. The whole idea of the holes for me is not noise, but rather the instant throttle response and holeshots.

    I urge everyone to respect our neighbors - in fact I am really against noise since I often fish near docks early mornings and late evenings. Open exhaust, no can, over-hub props, and 6,000 rpm holeshots are not my thing. I run a 26 Trophy 4 blade on the Allison/Promax SS so I can sneak away from docks and plan to do the same on this 2.0L when I finally get it built and find a boat that I want to put it on.

    That is a 2.4 Bridgeport exhaust tuner # 41941 coming directly from the pages of Bass & Walleye Boats Magazine "Hot Rodding the Mercury 150 V6" October 1998 issue article. I found it on eBay, beadblasted it, and painted with Epoxy coating. Gordon

    Click image for larger version. 

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    So I need to get one of those tuners as well?

  11. #25
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    What were they wh?
    The shorter the tuner the worse bottom end. Shorter better top. Supposedly but dont get a tuner thing goin. 90% people say waste money and time. Unless u have a 3ft tuner (which u mite)
    Last edited by Merc 2.5; 10-23-2019 at 08:08 PM.

  12. #26
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    The article is from 1998 and has dyno charts included where they test each of 3 different add-ons and show how they took a stock 150 to 183 horsepower with bolt-ons. Reeds, Tuner, and Brucato SVS added performance in every step. The Reeds made the smallest increase, but made the idle and acceleration a lot smoother. The Tuner allowed higher rpm and allowed the engine to breath up-top and took hp to 171 or so. Since we're both using carbs, the results with the SVS won't matter. Now, the caution I've received is that low-end torque will suffer with the shorter tuner and will only really "shine" at high rpm on light, fast boats. Gordon

  13. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gordon02 View Post
    The article is from 1998 and has dyno charts included where they test each of 3 different add-ons and show how they took a stock 150 to 183 horsepower with bolt-ons. Reeds, Tuner, and Brucato SVS added performance in every step. The Reeds made the smallest increase, but made the idle and acceleration a lot smoother. The Tuner allowed higher rpm and allowed the engine to breath up-top and took hp to 171 or so. Since we're both using carbs, the results with the SVS won't matter. Now, the caution I've received is that low-end torque will suffer with the shorter tuner and will only really "shine" at high rpm on light, fast boats. Gordon
    Ya I agree but most of that gain would come from Svs I would think. If u swap long for short bottom suffer a little but not that much, if u can vent ur prop little more mite not even notice a difference? 150 has a very restrictive tuner tho. Find u a 2.4 bell tuner or Bob's

    With that said if u get compression up u won't have any loss , but if u do all mods at once, u wont know what did what but ea mods will work coinside with other mods. if makes any sense
    Last edited by Merc 2.5; 10-23-2019 at 08:27 PM.

  14. #28
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    Get ya 2.4 200 front half (horizontal) 4pedal reeds , cut heads ,drilled mid ,bell tuner, wh22 or 46 jetted accordingly, 16amp charge system, possibly smooth exhaust chest out, run 93 fuel. Really like the 2.0. they can take a beating

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  16. #29
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    The reference to SVS is only because the tests were done on an EFI. We can get the same gains and numbers with properly jetted carbs as long as they aren't those small 1" throated ones. I've read that the Mercury Bridgeport tuner does out-perform the aftermarket ones from Bob's and perhaps Land and Sea (I can't remember exactly). Again, this is yet not-proven as I'm still building. A Glastron GT150 / Evinrude 115 V4 fell in my lap, so a full restore and build-out to 140 horses will come first before I can get back on my 2.0L. Gordon
    Last edited by Gordon02; 10-23-2019 at 08:38 PM.

  17. #30
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    Ok so here is where I'm at as I want to keep it simple.
    -26-28 cc heads
    Performance reeds (which ones?)
    Drilled mid
    2.4 tuner
    This will be on a norris craft 1700 super v pro medalist which is a pretty light boat.

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