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  1. #1
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    Red face Building a dependable 56ci tripple with some "extra"

    Hi all,

    I have been reading and learning alot of things from this forum. About a year ago I started a project, where I ran out of expertise being a rookie in engine building. So here goes my first post!

    The motor will be used on my 12ft Vega Matador. It's a stepped V-hull, so no where near as fast as some of you guys run, but overall a lovely boat.
    We do alot of skiing, and at some point we would like to do some travelling in canals, which will involve idleing.

    Where is the project so far:

    -Block is 0.040 oversized
    -New WSM pistons and rods, big and small end bearings, Gaskets arrived
    -New waterpump arrived
    -Used crank in good condition

    I can't tell if I have a lost foam or sand molded block, but it's definately a bridgeport. Year is 1992.

    On my to do list is the following:

    -CCM Reeds and stuffers (Cut cages? how far?)
    -Shave head (how far? It will run on RON 95, not sure if the Octane rating in Europe is different?)
    -Oil the bridge (How do I mark the piston for drilling the holes? Unfortunately my hands are to big to go thru the exhaust, for scribing the bridge )
    -Clean ports and casting imperfections
    -Matching the block to the sleeves (Good idea? They are definately not perfectly aligned)
    -CDI without limiter (Keeping the reliability aspect, what rpms are safe to run all day? 6500/7000?)
    -Jetting up for longevity?
    -Velocity stacks for eye candy

    I want to keep the porting stock, as I don't have the knowledge. Keeping low end and midrange torque is really important for me, so I guess I wouldn't benefit from cutting the pipe or raising the ports.

    Will post pictures as I go.

    Sorry for the long read and the amount of questions. I plan to run this motor for many years and really want to make every aspect as good as I can.
    Propably alot of dumb questions for the pro's, but I'm eager to learn!

    Thanks in advance for you help, much appreciated!

  2. #2
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    Some pictures. Looking forward to your replys!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #3
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    Ron 95 is just missing the mon number for American {Ron + mon /2} if Ron 95 is the lowest it’s pro equivalent to American 87. I know you guys get a large selection in some places.

  4. #4
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    move the tell tale hose to top of the exhaust housing
    your local evinrude dealer has a service bulletin on it plus other mods which was a large main jet in the middle cylinder.
    weigh the rods end to end and the pistons and grind them to even them out dont touch the rod cap
    check balance on the flywheel.
    You didnt say if it was a 60 or 70, which was just carb size

    bridge oiling, mark a vertical line up the middle of the bridge to the deck, bring a piston up and mark the deck of the piston so you now have a line you can run down the outside of the piston.
    Last edited by powerabout; 10-16-2019 at 11:21 PM.

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  6. #5
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    Thanks for your replys!
    @Motv18 :

    The MON of RON 95 is 85, so it will be at 90 Octane. Our Premium would be 95 Octane then. I'd like to stay with the regular though.

    So running with 90 (American) Octane fuel, how much can I safely shave off of the head? I think I read 0,15 Inches in FF 50 Pages, but would like to confirm.
    Approximately how far would I have to back of the timing?


    @powerabout :

    Yes, will do the water mod, will check on the larger main jet. Does the middle cylinder have to run richer because of heat? Do you see the need to jet all mains up? I think stock was 56D?

    I have the 70 carbs to start with. I will measure, but if I remember right I already have the 1,5 Inch bore version. Have carb kits for them ready. My motor also doesn't have the compression relief holes

    I guess checking the balance is nothing I can do at home? If it's a common thing for the flywheel to be out of balace I will send it to the machine shop, that will do the head also. If I balance it anyways, are there easy spots to remove some weight? Or not necessary for my application anyways, regarding it will have to idle sometimes?

    The rods are about 5 grams apart, the pistons a bit more. I will post more on it, when I tackle it.

    Thanks for the tip on the bridge oiling, so simple, how did I not think of it? One Problem solved!

    The idea is to have the powerhead back together in January. Before Christmas I won't have the time to physiacally work on it, but I'd love to have everything that needs involvement of the machine shop done. They are known to take alot of time unfortunately.

    What do you think about the port cleaning and/or matching? Does anybody know what to take of the head, so I can send it out?

    Appreciate yout input!

  7. #6
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    that year the engines ran hot due to the cooling design hence the factory had a few mods to help marginal ones.
    There was a waterpump kit with all the stuff in it.

    Re head comp, run as is to get compression reading then start milling.
    are you sea level or higher run in summer and winter? Comp survivability is all about air density, octane and engine load.
    Running low octane fuel is restricting your choices there.
    Check port heights from deck to top of each port just for your info.
    yes clean them up without grinding on the liner or altering the roof of any inlet port.

    you said the rods are 5gm apart whats important is each end difference
    be careful when your balance guys tries to lighten the flywheel its die cast
    Last edited by powerabout; 10-17-2019 at 05:28 AM.

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  9. #7
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    You can run about 135-140 on 90 American.

    I dont have the cc volume numbers on the heads to say what to cut them to. Shouldn’t take much if any. I will say .015” sounds close (don’t go off that though) follow powerabout’s advice about sticking it back together; as port cleaning and debur will let more air in and change the psi from stock.

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  11. #8
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    Measure the chamber depth.
    We know the sst60 spec which needs 98 in euro spec fuel.
    So you need to be under that.
    I'll post the drawing when i get home tomorrow
    Make sure your machinist mills the outside of the head first with spacers holding it up off the table so you get even chambers when you turn it over to mill it.
    Last edited by powerabout; 10-17-2019 at 01:55 PM.

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  13. #9
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    Thank you two for putting the time and effort in, I really apreciate it!

    To summarize:

    -I'll take the marked spots in the intake out with my dremel tool
    -leave the head stock, to get a cranking comnpression number, then cut later
    -Will talk to my machinist regarding the flywheel, lets see where he wants to take material of

    What do you think, how big would the power difference be with the mods mentioned above, running the motor with stock head, head for 90 Octane or SST60 spec head?
    If the gain is really noticeable andwont compromise engine life by much I start to consider cutting it to SST60 specs

  14. #10
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    You will get a noticeable difference, in this hp kw range 5-10 hp gain was often sold as another motor.

  15. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by clubmate777 View Post
    Thank you two for putting the time and effort in, I really apreciate it!

    To summarize:

    -I'll take the marked spots in the intake out with my dremel tool
    -leave the head stock, to get a cranking comnpression number, then cut later
    -Will talk to my machinist regarding the flywheel, lets see where he wants to take material of

    What do you think, how big would the power difference be with the mods mentioned above, running the motor with stock head, head for 90 Octane or SST60 spec head?
    If the gain is really noticeable andwont compromise engine life by much I start to consider cutting it to SST60 specs
    high comp and low octane is not for waterskiing...

  16. #12
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    Sounds like a fun project.

    http://www.********************/foru...-9ci-VS-56-1ci

    over on that site you will find a lot of information on the 49 and 56ci motor for SST60 race class.
    http://i35.tinypic.com/epn6ma.jpg

    Just a little Cat.

    24 Twister V8 E-Rude (For Sale)

    2008 Concept Sport Deck 2x 300X

  17. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by powerabout View Post
    high comp and low octane is not for waterskiing...
    Propably sounded missleading. The cut head would only be ran with premium fuel for sure.
    So for a baseline I will just put the head on, to see what my starting compression is like. Then go from there.

    Do you think high compression and less timing advance ist going to kill it's ability to idle?
    @JrCRXHF : Thanks for the link! If I got that right, the standard SST60 head would have a combustions chamber depth of 0.400. Seems like it's possible to further, certainly I wont.
    Looking forward to have the planning stage completed, to actually build it! So exciting!

    As always, thanks for your contributions!

  18. #14
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    google "boat racing facts 49ci to 56ci" in one of the threads they race the 49 and 56 together now and he gives the rules spec for what to shave the 56 head to so it will run with the 49's but this is not done on low oct gas. It is 91-93oct.
    http://i35.tinypic.com/epn6ma.jpg

    Just a little Cat.

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    2008 Concept Sport Deck 2x 300X

  19. #15
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    you max timing doesnt effect idle

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