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  1. #16
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    Jul 2006
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    I believe so. It's a woven cloth on a +45, -45 bias, with .75oz csm stitched to one side to help with bonding multiple layers. Someone else will be along to give better info I'm sure.

    https://www.expresscomposites.com/db...-45-w-ltwt-mat
    '78 Hydrostream Viking/2.0 175, restoration https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
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    Alabama
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    Have you already made the purchases? I prefer working with epoxy and 1708 bi-axial fabric for the structural bonds to the hull. The 8 ounce mat is "stitched" to the 17 ounce woven fabric and does not require MEK to dissolve the glue that would be used to hold fibers in normal mat. I use only US Composites 3:1 "slow" laminating epoxy. I've used 20 gallons of this stuff in the last 4 years and just love it.
    I use this same epoxy to make "peanut butter" paste as a bedding material when bedding stringers and keel to the hull whenever there are small irregularities and small voids that I want eliminate - a 1/2" bedding bead of peanut butter (wood flour mixed to peanut butter consistency in this pre-mixed 3:1 epoxy) will made a water-proof and very strong bond. Also keep in mind that epoxy bonds are 20~30% stronger than polyester ones.
    I prefer to pre-cut my 1708 fabric to size - whether it's tabbing, flooring, or build up. I always wet these out on a flat table covered in plastic one layer at a time. You'll soon learn that gravity is your friend and the 2nd layer will wet faster than the 1st, 3rd faster than the 2nd. Having these wet layers below helps the new layers turn translucent quicker. Once I have the layers that I want to apply "wet", I then wet the surface they are to be applied. I then apply each layer of fabric one at a time or all at once - depending on their size and how many air bubbles I have to remove. Wet on wet and complete translucent fabric is essential. These usually give you about 20 minutes to lay down and roll-out. Caution, the larger "pot" of epoxy you make, the faster it will go off. While slower, heat - just like polyester kicks it quickly. You'll lose 1 or 2 mixes before you're a pro!
    Now, if I'm going to make composite boxes, seats, flooring panels out of fiber, I'll use polyester. First I will apply mold release to the 1/4" plywood or FRP pattern that I want to copy. Meanwhile, I cut out the fabric layers I want to laminate. Once the mold release is dry (about 30 minutes), I wet-out the pattern surface (really wet) and start applying layers and rolling them out. Again, the flat table and gravity is your friend - 2nd and 3rd layers go faster since they are applied to already wet fabric. 3, 4, even 5 layers can be laminated if done quickly. Have a laminate roller close by so that you can work-out the bubbles as you go. I try to have a helper on-hand for these laminations to roll and help with laying the fabrics quickly while I keep the resin batches made up. You Do not want to try and make up the resin in one batch - the larger the batch, the faster it goes off.
    in the
    Once I've epoxied the stringers and keel to the hull, filet/faired all of joints with peanut butter and applied all the tabbing bow to stern, the 1/4" plywood you see below is a pattern I made from cardboard drawings and will be used to make 4 layer 1708/polyester composite flooring for my little Glastron. I'll separate from the ply, trim for a perfect hull fit, scratch the bonding areas with 40 grit, sand all mold release off, then bond to the hull and White Oak stringers/keel with wet 1708/epoxy and a small bead of epoxy peanut butter. Lots of weights and 24 hours later and I'll have a solid, water-tight base.
    I've decided on a dry keel, so I'll have a small bilge box in the back that all water will exit. None of my White Oak has been bonded to the hull - I'm fighting a herniated disk and everything is on hold. I've got to sand/smooth my filets then apply tabbing. The ply as shown is simply laying on top of the sub-structure at this point. Gordon

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Gordon02; 10-24-2019 at 07:32 PM.

  3. Likes Merc 2.5, tnelsmn liked this post
  4. #18
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Oklahoma City, Ok
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    Hey Merc.
    This will save you some cash on the rebuild. Im sure your now familiar with my build.
    I brought all my epoxy from here: http://www.clarkcraft.com/cgi-supplies/shop_responsive.pl?type=topic&topic_name_value=epoxy_resin&cart_id=

    This is a lot cheaper than that "other stuff" and its just has good. They also sale wood flour for your peanut butter mix.
    Dont buy those mixing pumps,,,theses here do a great job of measuring resin and harder very nicely, and there cheap:
    https://www.amazon.com/Syringe-Steri...a-811947212328
    If you think this is fun, wait til next weekend!

  5. Thanks Merc 2.5 thanked for this post
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