1990 Johnson gt-200 ignition issue

**Fastfishinmd** · 10-10-2019, 04:23 PM

Originally Posted by Nitro25

Well you're all kinds of fun! Pretty much rules out flywheel. Did this happen before you changed trigger? And when you disabled kill circuit did do it at the Pack?

1) disable shift switch and try it again

2) Start engine, pull apart main engine Red Cannon plug after engine is running, and test. You'll have to plug cannon plug back in to kill engine.
If this solves the problem there's a partial short in the control harness. Disconnect signal wire on tack and retest with harness plugged in.

Oh it's fun that's for sure done and done no difference with either the main plug unplugged or shift interupt switch disconnected FYI this is a jet outboard so the interupt switch is never used. This has been the issue with the motor since the day I purchased it without knowing of this problem it had great spark and good even compression how bad can it be LMAO here we are over a year later

**Fastfishinmd** · 10-10-2019, 04:24 PM

Nitro could you please explain why my previous post rules out the flywheel thanks

**Nitro25** · 10-10-2019, 06:09 PM

Well basically a flywheel is static, it does not change. And what your describing is electrical/electronics. When it drops from 5500 down to 2500 or so, and then you can recover by manipulating the throttle, flywheel can't do that. It sure sounds like a timer base or pack trying to go into SLOW.

Does this happen with the reg. out of circuit?

**Nitro25** · 10-10-2019, 06:10 PM

What's your complete model #

**racer** · 10-10-2019, 06:17 PM

One thing I noticed is you mentioned 0 to 1000V on the orange wires. These are your quick start wires not your ignition charge coils those are brown. The charge coils also will not make any where close to a 1000V so something else is wrong. What is your voltage at the ignition coil when running 1000RPM and again at 2500, if your meter is correct you should have between 150 and 200 at 1000RPM and go up to about 240 at 2500

**Fastfishinmd** · 10-11-2019, 06:42 AM

Originally Posted by Nitro25

Well basically a flywheel is static, it does not change. And what your describing is electrical/electronics. When it drops from 5500 down to 2500 or so, and then you can recover by manipulating the throttle, flywheel can't do that. It sure sounds like a timer base or pack trying to go into SLOW.

Does this happen with the reg. out of circuit?

Yes it does this with the regulator disconnected aswell

**Nitro25** · 10-11-2019, 06:50 AM

Originally Posted by Fastfishinmd

Yes it does this with the regulator disconnected aswell

You isolated the "Yellow" wires from the alternator to the regulator and not the Red output wire ... right?

**Fastfishinmd** · 10-11-2019, 06:54 AM

Okay so here's an update talked with cdi electronics I am to send the entire ignition system including the flywheel to them they are going to install it on their test motor to find the issue if they can't I'm done with it so let me know if you are interested in parts I will be making deals

**Fastfishinmd** · 10-11-2019, 06:54 AM

Originally Posted by Nitro25

You isolated the "Yellow" wires from the alternator to the regulator and not the Red output wire ... right?

Yes

**Nitro25** · 10-11-2019, 07:10 AM

That! ... Was my next idea. The people at CDI are Great! They will go above and beyond what we call service today.

Side Story: I had a 70 Hp 3cyl Evinrude come to my shop with a DEAD MISS! No doubt about it ... This thing had a DEAD MISS!! So I started pullin plug wires to find the bad hole. Pulled #1, no change, #2, no change, and #3 ... NO CHANGE! But There was a dead miss you could not deny!

It was the Pack! For some reason it would not fire all three. And when you would pull a firing cylinder, it would pick up the offending cylinder!

I sent that pack to the OMC training center in Sawgrass Fl. So they could have some fun with their students in the test cells.

Electrons do funny things!

Please get back to us when CDI figures out what's amiss!

Thanks;

D.

**Fastfishinmd** · 10-11-2019, 07:17 AM

I will make sure to update the post with the findings thanks for all the help

**Krazymaan** · 10-12-2019, 08:06 PM

I had the exact same issue. Spent a summer chasing it. Bought all brand new CDI digital stuff racing stuff. was better but not quite right. Ended up being the internal timing magnets had a few cracks in them. Nothing to do with the outer magnets. Reluctantly bought a new flywheel and the problem was solved. On a timing light they were sparking willy nilly. I have a few videos on youtube showing the issue. But it sounds just like what I went through. If anyone has ever put a flywheel puller on the flywheel and gave it a whack with a hammer, that's all it takes to crack 29 yr old magnets.

**Nitro25** · 10-13-2019, 08:15 AM

Hey Krazzymaan

So what you're saying is that the ferrite magnet is fractured behind the shield and not visible in the trigger windows, and in you're case the shield did not migrate out of phase? ... We had all kinds of weird problems with flywheels, but usually with the windows migrating out of phase. If the magnet fractured vertical, it would create a new set N/S poles, but you would think the stainless window shield would mute, or dampen the lines of influence. But if the fracture was horizontal passing across the face of the trigger window, you would have two new sets of poles who's lines if influence would run 90* out, who knows what the trigger would see. I have a PC microscope that I use for circuit boards that could see that.

D.