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  1. #16
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    I had a new engine with faulty flywheel way back in 80's it caused missfire about 3000 rpm, idled fine.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitro25 View Post
    Disconnect kill switch circuit (Black with yellow tracer wire) back at the pack and test again.
    both of them, there are 2

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitro25 View Post
    Disconnect kill switch circuit (Black with yellow tracer wire) back at the pack and test again.
    Done all the same

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by powerabout View Post
    I had a new engine with faulty flywheel way back in 80's it caused missfire about 3000 rpm, idled fine.
    Thank you atleast I know I may not be insane in thinking it could be this flywheel.

  5. #20
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    It almost sounds like it's trying to go into S.L.O.W. Mode. Disconnect temp sensors on cylinder heads, and try again.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by powerabout View Post
    both of them, there are 2
    Yes Both, totally isolate pack from kill circuit.

  7. #22
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    Ok, let me get this straight. The flywheel is original and came with the motor, and is the only component that has not been changed. Everything else is CDI, (Pack & Stator) Timer base is original. The problem started after change out? Or this problem is what you're trying resolve? Are you doing tests in the water or on a hose?

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by powerabout View Post
    I had a new engine with faulty flywheel way back in 80's it caused missfire about 3000 rpm, idled fine.
    Yep ... The crossflow V6's had bad flywheels right out of the box. Enging couldn't get full RPM. The way you troubleshot this was to run WOT and hit trim "Up" and the engine would lose about 600 - 1000 RPM. Weak Magnets. The alt would steal from charge coils to try and satisfy the increased amp load of the trim motor trying to trim the engine.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitro25 View Post
    It almost sounds like it's trying to go into S.L.O.W. Mode. Disconnect temp sensors on cylinder heads, and try again.
    Done no change

  10. #25
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    Is the timer base stock, or CDI Too?

    And you're getting scatter on all cyls and not just one bank.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitro25 View Post
    Is the timer base stock, or CDI Too?

    And you're getting scatter on all cyls and not just one bank.
    Yes scattered misfires on all 6 plugs new trigger and new trigger resistance tests good. original trigger failed resistance tests. Okay alittle run down here. at idle all 6 coils have a strong great spark jumps 1/2in+ gap as I increase the rpm at almost exactly 1500 rpm the flash on the timing light all of a sudden changes and the tach shows half the rpm so basically I'm reading the rpm like this hopefully you understand this. Starting at idle and increasing rpm to 1200-1250-1300-1350-1400-1450-750-800-850-900 and so on but my tach is reading correctly if it says 2000rpm on the tach my timing light will only be flashing and saying 1000rpm but at 1400 on the tach both the tach and the timing light read the same also the timing mark and pointer are alinged flywheel is indexed the idle timing is correct WOT timing is correct tested at 5000 rpm (under load). Timing on all six plugs is correct. And I have verified that the timing light is reading correctly it's been tested on other outboards and has no issues. Basically everything is correct flywheel trigger magnet is tight and visually perfect and all magnets are strong and correctly spaced and oriented. Now one thing I have not mentioned someone said something about slow mode i eliminated that from happening. Although if I hammer it out of the hole up to wot (5400rpm) but you can feel it's rough at that rpm and something isn't right and almost everytime i do this and run more than 10 secs without throttling back down it will all of a sudden out of nowhere drop to 1500-2000 rpm and will not rev with the throttle at wide open position but all I have to do is return to idle then hammer back down as fast as I can. This takes me mabey 5 secs I don't even come off plane and when I do this most of the time it will run flawless and powerful unless I stop and return to idle or shut the motor off. Hopefully this all makes sense.
    Last edited by Fastfishinmd; 10-10-2019 at 12:23 PM.

  12. #27
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    Also this is the second power pack because the first replacement pack gave the same problem we thought it was trying to go into slow mode. FYI new main harness and the diode in the harness tests good

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastfishinmd View Post
    Yes scattered misfires on all 6 plugs new trigger and new trigger resistance tests good. original trigger failed resistance tests. Okay alittle run down here. at idle all 6 coils have a strong great spark jumps 1/2in+ gap as I increase the rpm at almost exactly 1500 rpm the flash on the timing light all of a sudden changes and the tach shows half the rpm so basically I'm reading the rpm like this hopefully you understand this. Starting at idle and increasing rpm to 1200-1250-1300-1350-1400-1450-750-800-850-900 and so on but my tach is reading correctly if it says 2000rpm on the tach my timing light will only be flashing and saying 1000rpm but at 1400 on the tach both the tach and the timing light read the same also the timing mark and pointer are alinged flywheel is indexed the idle timing is correct WOT timing is correct tested at 5000 rpm (under load). Timing on all six plugs is correct. And I have verified that the timing light is reading correctly it's been tested on other outboards and has no issues. Basically everything is correct flywheel trigger magnet is tight and visually perfect and all magnets are strong and correctly spaced and oriented. Now one thing I have not mentioned someone said something about slow mode i eliminated that from happening. Although if I hammer it out of the hole up to wot (5400rpm) but you can feel it's rough at that rpm and something isn't right and almost everytime i do this and run more than 10 secs without throttling back down it will all of a sudden out of nowhere drop to 1500-2000 rpm and will not rev with the throttle at wide open position but all I have to do is return to idle then hammer back down as fast as I can. This takes me mabey 5 secs I don't even come off plane and when I do this most of the time it will run flawless and powerful unless I stop and return to idle or shut the motor off. Hopefully this all makes sense.

    Well you're all kinds of fun! Pretty much rules out flywheel. Did this happen before you changed trigger? And when you disabled kill circuit did do it at the Pack?

    1) disable shift switch and try it again

    2) Start engine, pull apart main engine Red Cannon plug after engine is running, and test. You'll have to plug cannon plug back in to kill engine.
    If this solves the problem there's a partial short in the control harness. Disconnect signal wire on tack and retest with harness plugged in.

  14. #29
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    two more things to check...the timer base magnet on the inner hub could have come loose and rotated...this throws your timing all out of whack...
    also check the flywheel part numbers....the 86-87 small bores used a different flywheel and the inner t-base magnets are clocked differently...
    also a different timerbase...

  15. #30
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    Forget disabling tach, I was thinking of something else, but run the plud out test.

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