Need help with Mercury 2.5 200hp lower unit bearings

[Aaronhl]

Good points guys about the using the standard lower unit. If I don't surface U think a nonratcheting C4 would work okay?

[Aaronhl]

if you did not take shift shaft out of the front of the case to get prop shaft out you broke something as it has a shift cam in the shift barrel on the end of the prop shaft which the shift shaft goes thru and into a hole in the case. showing video ive never done it . besides without the tools its like no help to anyone. i learned how by reading manual and school of oops that will cost me and buying tools

The prop shaft is not out of the lower unit. I only pulled the prop shaft maybe 1/8" while freeing up the bearing carrier by proping a block, and then used the chain puller to pull the bearing carrier out.

[TEXAS20225]

keep this in mind buying a coned lower has its on complications #1 who coned it was it welded or just epoxy #2 being surfaced is detrimental to prop shaft bearings and seals its not for the person who does not know something is broke till it hits the floor. oils should be checked after each lake outing if your surfacing because it can wipe a seal out and your case is full of water if not changed and fixed quick you have wasted you money its a another maintenance thing i cant tell you how many cases ive worked on just to change water pump and found water in the case the owner never found it. i never replaced pump only with out draining oil and adding new after i pressure tested it

[bullet123]

Good points guys about the using the standard lower unit. If I don't surface U think a nonratcheting C4 would work okay?

Should be fine if you don't surface. They last for years on bass boats running 65-75 mph.

[bullet123]

Texas knows his stuff with these lowers. He beefed mine up and coned it years ago and I used to surface all of the time when I had the need for speed.

[bullet123]

I think he put in a 3 liter carrier and pinned it, but my memory stinks. Maybe he can enlighten us on his tricks?

[TEXAS20225]

Trent u pulled the wrong cord if im supposed to remember what i did to your case, i cant tell you the number of cases ive worked on since then that was a long time ago and i slept since then, i did put 3.0 carriers in coned cases because they are much heavier built and the first 3.0 cases had same spline on drive shaft and a key way just like 2.5 cases then merc said hold it this aint complicated enough lets add this and change some part numbers so they will be lost its common for merc to change part numbers and super cede and dont tell you what it was before so you can buy another one that just like the old one just different number

[Aaronhl]

OK got the shift shaft out after cutting up a socket to make a tool to take the shift shaft seal off. That was easy

The prop shaft is now out too so I ordered all the parts I need to reinstall a different bearing carrier. I hope I bought the right bearing carrier. I have the 1647-9147-C unit with 1-1/4" dia shaft. Will I be able to use the 43567T1?

[Aaronhl]

Ok guys Thanks for all the help!!

Been a few weeks, had to wait for some parts in the mail. Changed the bearing carrier, prop shaft seals, and large ball bearing on the carrier. As well as new o-ring and shift shaft seal. I am pretty sure the lower unit is sealed up now. Learned a lot taking it apart, it was actually pretty easy once I got the old bearing carrier to move.

Took the boat for a rip today and didnt have any issues

[Aaronhl]

So I think the prop shaft seals started to leak and then I was running the unit without a grease...Upon inspection of the lower unit, I noticed the bearing carrier was cracked, the prop shaft seals were destroyed, and the bearing carrier needle bearing and ball bearing were frozen.