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  1. #1
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    Need help with Mercury 2.5 200hp lower unit bearings

    I noticed when I spin the prop by hand in neutral there is grinding noise, going to be replacing the bearings now. I can't seem to find a video of the bearing and seal replacement, only the initial removal of the bearing carrier.

    Is there a way of replacing the needle bearing in carrier without removing the carrier from the unit?

    What tools are needed to replace the two bearings and seals in the bearing carrier once I take it out of the lower unit?

  2. #2
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    And if anyone has a retainer puller wrench they wanna sell please let me know

  3. #3
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    If it’s grinding take whole unit apart ,clean it inside and replace what’s broke

  4. #4
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    Ok I will take the whole beating carrier out, but what tools/attachments are needed to replace the bearings inside the carrier? Can anyone share a video?
    Last edited by Aaronhl; 09-16-2019 at 06:57 AM.

  5. #5
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    I saw the removal and installation procedure of the bearings on the carrier in the service manual, but the part number it lists for the long mandrel to press out the needle bearing I can't find online. It lists the part number as "Universal Bearing Removal and Installation Tool (91-31 229A1)"

    Is there a similar tool I could buy at the hardware store or does this need to be a Mercury part? Some of the other pullers and pressers I can rig up without the official mercury parts.

  6. #6
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    If there is a grinding noise chances are a bearing or gear has let go and done some damage inside the gearcase... it will need to be completely torn down and inspected. Any metal or contamination through the bearings and they will all need to be replaced... not just needle bearings in your carrier... this job requires a few mercury special tools and better left to a trained technician. It will require proper shimming, pinion height set etc.
    15.5 cobra 175 hp merc - sold
    18 tahiti tiger O/B 200 hp merc - sold
    19 STV euro - 2.5 merc DRAG
    Seebold F1 tunnel - 2.0 F1/champ

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  8. #7
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    Good advice and information, might be best to buy a used lower unit in good shape !!

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaronhl View Post
    Good advice and information, might be best to buy a used lower unit in good shape !!
    I would definatley look at a good used case for a replacement, v6 200 cases can be bought fairly cheap, I wouldn't recommend doing a full bearings swap unless it was a sportmaster or a 4 hole CLE... just not worth it in my opinion.
    15.5 cobra 175 hp merc - sold
    18 tahiti tiger O/B 200 hp merc - sold
    19 STV euro - 2.5 merc DRAG
    Seebold F1 tunnel - 2.0 F1/champ

  10. #9
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    The big bearing 200 cases work fine behind big power and hours of surfacing, and lots of people has said a coned 200 case is faster than sporty on diff rigs, I've been surfacing my 200 case for few yrs now and all has been great. ( knock on wood)

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merc 2.5 View Post
    The big bearing 200 cases work fine behind big power and hours of surfacing, and lots of people has said a coned 200 case is faster than sporty on diff rigs, I've been surfacing my 200 case for few yrs now and all has been great. ( knock on wood)
    He never mentioned it was a big bearing 200... and yes they do last but if it's a question of rebuilding with new bearing and possibly gears it will far exceed the value of it unless you get parts at a discount, have to tools and can do the job yourself.
    15.5 cobra 175 hp merc - sold
    18 tahiti tiger O/B 200 hp merc - sold
    19 STV euro - 2.5 merc DRAG
    Seebold F1 tunnel - 2.0 F1/champ

  12. #11
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    measure a 2 1/2 or 3" steel pipe against the needed od fto make bearing tool. using a steel saw [hacksaw ...] . remove the material not needed to fit into the spud nut. on the other end cut, either holes or slots for a long bar to remove the spud nut.

    when replacing the spud, drill and counter bore for 2 to ,4 SS 10/32 screws and lock nuts [ into the case and spud, for locking the nut tight. they tend to loosen and destroy LUs.


    it not detailed so call for details 206 369 3596

    bob merkle

  13. #12
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    Thanks for the help guys... right now I am looking for a lower unit as replacement (seems like mostly unconed no ratcheting on eBay) maybe I’ll pick one up n use that one while I learn to rebuild my current unit which is a coned 200 lower unit. I am trying to get the retainer ring off on my current unit but already broke a breaker bar !!

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  15. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaronhl View Post
    Thanks for the help guys... right now I am looking for a lower unit as replacement (seems like mostly unconed no ratcheting on eBay) maybe I’ll pick one up n use that one while I learn to rebuild my current unit which is a coned 200 lower unit. I am trying to get the retainer ring off on my current unit but already broke a breaker bar !!
    Drill the bearing carrier retainer ring carefully in 4 corners without damaging the threads, grab a hammer and chisel the ring out, hammer on the tabs spinning the ring out counterclockwise.
    15.5 cobra 175 hp merc - sold
    18 tahiti tiger O/B 200 hp merc - sold
    19 STV euro - 2.5 merc DRAG
    Seebold F1 tunnel - 2.0 F1/champ

  16. #14
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    OK so I got the retainer ring out by drilling and hitting it with a chisel to break free in pieces since even a 4 foot long pipe on a 1/2" breaker bar couldn't turn it loose.

    I will try to pull the bearing carrier out tomorrow night after I rig up the chains for the puller.

    I am trying to figure out what lower unit I have because there are different bearing carrier part numbers for the several options based on my engine's serial number.

    How can I confirm what lower unit I have before I pull it off and give you guys the serial number?

  17. #15
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    Hey the 3 I see listed for what I think is your motor are for the standard, counter-rotating, and XR6 LU's. Is that what you are referring to? Pretty sure yours would be the standard one.

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