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  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merc 2.5 View Post
    Well actually if it's that rough nose needs b up or u gonna stuff it
    So very true!!! Pretty sure that's why they don't set up the boats to keep the nose down from the factory because guys that don't know how to run a boat would be in big trouble..lol

  2. #32
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    Cool

    When setting up any boat for running flat, fast and safe... setup is key. Unfortunately the prop is typically the most expensive of all the adjustable factors and usually the LAST resort by most boat owners.

    This thinking is totally backwards as most will use as I call them, "Band-Aids" to somewhat cure small factions of the issues or problems before addressing the one large issue. Let me post a list here so you can see how I address a boat's running in a fast but safe manner.


    • Balance. Weight distribution is key. If you have a boat that is running too stern-heavy... let's move some of the weight forward. If this is not possible simply because you do not have the adequate storage to move batteries or add MORE weight, then you need the next step.
    • Prop selection. Having the proper propeller is the key to running fast, safe and with the utmost control. There are several companies that allow you to test various propellers, BBlades and Ken@Propgods.com I suggest Ken as he has a HUGE following and in my mind is the Wiki of Props. There is a reason why Mercury produces 5 different versions of the REV4 and 3 or 4 versions of the Bravo with six different other styles of props just for the Opti and Verado motors.

      For any boat that is stern heavy, you need a longer barrel and something that has a bit more rake to it to also keep the bow afloat in a heavier boat. The Rev4 is my best suggestion unless you think your boat can carry an Enertia Eco wheel.
    • Motor height... try to get it up so at LEAST the cavitation plate is almost dry when the boat is running flat. If it is submerged, your motor is TOO LOW and it will cause the stern to drag down, not UP. If you do not have a jackplate or slide, get one. The best design is the Porta Bracket (http://www.portaproducts.com/) for the ultimate is engine movement. You can even mount the hydraulic pump forward in the hull for better weight distribution.
    • Trim Tabs. Many boats have them and they are key for carrying heavier boats. Some tabs are only 4" in length but they make just enough pressure to keep a boat at a safe planing speed or help just enough to help with the launch. Tabs can also help a boat that is offset in weight side to side balance. This would be the case where I am driving at 260# and a cute blonde is in the left seat at 98# dripping wet.
    • Drag Foil/Cavitation Plate Wings. These are great for planing, but if your motor is at the proper height, should not be much in the water at all when you are at speed.
    • Common sense. This is by far the most rare of all items in boating... if you have it, then everything else should fall into place.

  3. Likes pjbrownva liked this post
  4. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tango View Post
    When setting up any boat for running flat, fast and safe... setup is key. Unfortunately the prop is typically the most expensive of all the adjustable factors and usually the LAST resort by most boat owners.

    This thinking is totally backwards as most will use as I call them, "Band-Aids" to somewhat cure small factions of the issues or problems before addressing the one large issue. Let me post a list here so you can see how I address a boat's running in a fast but safe manner.


    • Balance. Weight distribution is key. If you have a boat that is running too stern-heavy... let's move some of the weight forward. If this is not possible simply because you do not have the adequate storage to move batteries or add MORE weight, then you need the next step.
    • Prop selection. Having the proper propeller is the key to running fast, safe and with the utmost control. There are several companies that allow you to test various propellers, BBlades and Ken@Propgods.com I suggest Ken as he has a HUGE following and in my mind is the Wiki of Props. There is a reason why Mercury produces 5 different versions of the REV4 and 3 or 4 versions of the Bravo with six different other styles of props just for the Opti and Verado motors.

      For any boat that is stern heavy, you need a longer barrel and something that has a bit more rake to it to also keep the bow afloat in a heavier boat. The Rev4 is my best suggestion unless you think your boat can carry an Enertia Eco wheel.
    • Motor height... try to get it up so at LEAST the cavitation plate is almost dry when the boat is running flat. If it is submerged, your motor is TOO LOW and it will cause the stern to drag down, not UP. If you do not have a jackplate or slide, get one. The best design is the Porta Bracket (http://www.portaproducts.com/) for the ultimate is engine movement. You can even mount the hydraulic pump forward in the hull for better weight distribution.
    • Trim Tabs. Many boats have them and they are key for carrying heavier boats. Some tabs are only 4" in length but they make just enough pressure to keep a boat at a safe planing speed or help just enough to help with the launch. Tabs can also help a boat that is offset in weight side to side balance. This would be the case where I am driving at 260# and a cute blonde is in the left seat at 98# dripping wet.
    • Drag Foil/Cavitation Plate Wings. These are great for planing, but if your motor is at the proper height, should not be much in the water at all when you are at speed.
    • Common sense. This is by far the most rare of all items in boating... if you have it, then everything else should fall into place.
    Thanks Tango.. I will be re propping before I try anything have been running the same prop for the past 12 years but now my needs have changed a little bit so yes that would be the best place to start.. I believe my motor height is where needs to be plus I have a Jack plate and I can probly redirect 75 pounds of weight to the front..

  5. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silvershiner View Post
    Thanks Tango.. I will be re propping before I try anything have been running the same prop for the past 12 years but now my needs have changed a little bit so yes that would be the best place to start.. I believe my motor height is where needs to be plus I have a Jack plate and I can probly redirect 75 pounds of weight to the front..
    Tango's advice sounds good to me. Even with my hydrofoils, when I'm running at high speed, they're usually not in the water, or just at the surface... I don't think they're doing much if anything once I'm running fast... but they help me get the stern up when accelerating, and they keep me on plane at slower speeds... which I sometimes like, especially in rough water. I don't know if they prevent the stern from dropping back down when I'm at high speed... I just know that when I've looked back there, the hydrofoil is usually near the surface of the water or up out of the water.

    I've been in some slop where I've slowed down to maybe 15 mph, and trimmed the motor way up, to lift the bow high, then I've worked the throttle as I go up the waves, and back off, so that I don't slam on the other side. The result is that I stay dry and make good headway, even in rough conditions (like martha's vineyard sound with a nice chop). Of course, I'm very familiar with how my boat handles --- since I've owned it for so long -- and some might argue that I'm a bit half-baked too.

    But I agree with the idea of getting your weight balance right first, your prop second, and then look to other solutions -- and engine height is critical too, but a jack plate , which you have -- allows you to dynamically make adjustments based on the conditions and/or your needs once you get the baseline setup in the right holes.

    Let us know how your story unfolds.... I'd love to hear what you try and how it works for you.

    P.S. Props like the enertia, and others that came out around the same time are supposed to be very good -- depending on your needs -- I have no experience with them, but as I understand it, Merc did nice job in rethinking and reengineering propellers for that prop and several others. I guess I'm still stuck with the old skool stuff, and used gear that I can afford! :-)

    Also, if you don't have a water pressure gauge, you might want to get one... that's what I use to make sure that I'm not running my mota too high. I don't have a low water pickup, but I'm not running that type of setup (and neither are you)... but it gives me good piece of mind to be able to confirm that I'm getting good water pressure if/when I raise the motor up and/or trim it up high especially if I'm running a speed.

    I suspect that at the end of the day, you'll either find a way to add trim tabs, or get a hydrofoil... but get your weight distribution and your prop right first. The tabs or a foil should help you keep the boat on plane at slower speeds, which can be an asset, along with the proper trim, to be on plane and keep the bow up when you're in the type of slop that you describe.

    I know some bass boat guys run a hot foot too... I've never tried one, so I can't comment. I keep one hand on the wheel, and the other on the throttle, and work it that way when I need to.
    Last edited by pjbrownva; 09-15-2019 at 02:02 PM. Reason: Added more thoughts about hydrofoils and hot foots...

  6. #35
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    Thanks to everyone for their opinions and great advice.. Will need a few weeks to get some things done but I will repost with everything I did and how it goes.. Thanks again for everybody's time!!!

  7. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silvershiner View Post
    Thanks to everyone for their opinions and great advice.. Will need a few weeks to get some things done but I will repost with everything I did and how it goes.. Thanks again for everybody's time!!!
    Finally got the time to re prop the boat And added negative wedges... Huge difference.. Boat runs flat as a pancake... Change my prop to a power Tech OFS 4 blade..
    The boat loves that prop RP m's are right where they need to be and only lost 1 to 2 miles an hour.. Can raise Jack plate 3 or 4" For speed And all the way down for rougher conditions..

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  9. #37
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    Nice.
    Azure AZ259, 8.1

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