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Thread: Chine walk speedboat
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08-29-2019, 06:45 AM #16Junior Member
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Thanks. And thanks for all the help from you guys.
Im thinking of a pad too. Do you think i should build a flat or vee pad. I looked at outerlimits hull and maybe copy that.Last edited by Starholk; 08-29-2019 at 06:50 AM.
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08-29-2019, 06:51 AM #17
I would build 10" flat pad. I just think it would be so much easier to set and keep on pad. I am no boat builder but have driven my fair share of fast V bottoms so that's where may opinion comes from.
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08-29-2019, 07:27 AM #18
Very cool looking boat. I want to watch where this goes. My concept does not like smooth water at speed either. It has just one step.
Just a little Cat.
24 Twister V8 E-Rude (For Sale)
2008 Concept Sport Deck 2x 300X
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08-29-2019, 08:27 AM #19
Your boat doesn't like water period
Vool boat Starholk..Some friends there might have some cleavers to try?
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Will hedrick liked this post
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08-29-2019, 08:30 AM #20
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08-29-2019, 09:43 AM #216000 RPM
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If you’re coming out as much as the boats in the photograph then you’ll have to lower the Motor.
once the propshaft is above the water line you to get massive prop slap reaction. An out of phase twin can rock you off balance.
Youll defintly want want to check balance and height before working glass. If anything don’t slow it down with a pad just add a step lower.
us Americans like pads because most fast boats here are flat bottoms I mean pad. Not that many slick step or strake vLast edited by Motv18; 08-29-2019 at 09:46 AM.
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08-29-2019, 09:45 AM #22Junior Member
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Thanks. Yes its cool boat but made in italy so it has carbon sparco seat in red snakeskinn. Ha ha. I have bought 4 new sparco seats and new interior in alcantara. And will also cut a bigger hole in the roof. Like the raceboats have.
Yes. The boat dont like water. Ha ha.
Sorry have no friends with outboard clevers to test with. All my friends have inboards boats with bravo and imco drives.
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08-29-2019, 09:48 AM #236000 RPM
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A bravo is worth a shot over hub is just a hole shot thing once you breach the surface hub or over hub has little effect
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08-29-2019, 09:56 AM #24Junior Member
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The props are rotation different ways. Both out. I havent droved it in a rough sea yet so i havent got the air under the boat as the raceboats in pics. I have only driven in low sea and its no different how high the drives are.
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08-29-2019, 10:01 AM #25Screaming And Flying!
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This is just my opinion. But...... There has to have been a lot of r&d done on that hull. I would not modify it. If it won't do what you want sell it and buy another. That is a very complex bottom.....It's not just an add a pad and it's fixed type of bottom. Not a small undertaking IMO.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
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KIRCHNER thanked for this post
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08-29-2019, 10:22 AM #26Junior Member
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I drove all the way to italy from sweden to buy it. I got a very good price but i dont think its easy to sell if nobody cant drive it. I want the boat and i will try to change something and if that want work then i try something else. Or i copy some other boats hull. If its work for them it should maybe work for me. It cant get worse at it is now. I think its designed only for rough water.
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08-29-2019, 10:33 AM #27
I agree with xstream statement above,,,,
reason I asked in beginning of thread is if it did it in calm water vrsing rough water is,,,,
ITS AN OFFSHORE RACE HULL
only works properly with some rough to hold it straight
with big steps and very wide strakes the hull is designed to lift high out the water to ride on top in the rough so when running in glassy water no hull is touching and no waves breaking on the vee to hold it straightand riding on top waves don't toss it out of water as much ,,,its already out on the tips of the waves
topwater is a smoother ride than riding deep cutting the water,,,,,"racing conditions"
I have built,,,modified,restoed,raced quite a few offshore vees
that last step on back of hull is not a step,,,that is actually the motor offset box,,,
the hull ends looks like 12-16" forward where hullgoes full width with the k planes,,
so no moremotor offset needed as it already built in
next hull was designed as a single I/o or single o/b for skeg to be in the center
this is ur pendelem
twins will work,,,,but takes set up on that hull
for instance the last play hull I put together was a 27 Excalibur with triple 260s
took lots of set up and balancing to get hull to ride on the narrow 6' wide hull 24deg bottom
props were lifting hull out of water to high for control
when got height right and correct props,,,balanced ,ect
still could not go past 70-75 on glassy water,,,as was not designed for that
but would run 100+ in 2'-3' ers and fly level in the rough,,,,,was an awsome boat then,,,,,
reason is the bottom with its big lifting strakes were there to dry the hull to run on top
so motor height is critical and prop design,,,,,
was stated to lower motors,,,that is backwards on this style hull
as hull is designed to lift itself so motors don't need to lift boat,,,
if lower motors with that hull and bow lifting props,,, will surface and lift hull higher,,,,,,,,,,
more out of control
true cleavers lift transom,,,,what u need,,,,as hull needs to stay flat with no bow lift
keep raising motors with that much offset id start 1 3/4 above bottom of hull,,,not the offset box
and keep raising till hull settles the transom and transom rides in the water,,,,
the props are surfacing so gotta get them high enough so the splitshaft surfacing is not lift the transom
that's to make it stable with the twins as the 2 props are lifting more than a single will
but hull will never be fast in glassy water as will chine walk still when airs out,,,
it need the rough to cut the waves to hold it true,,
good luck with boat,,,,,
also with the cle cases with low pu,,,,
when u keep raising motors till it quits lifting transom,,,
theres the point it will start to loose water pressure
as now cases are going above split shaft and not lifting transom,,,,drop motors 1/4" and ur there
correct height to hull,,,,for the rough,,,,,
set up,,set up,,,is the keyLast edited by johnmiffco; 08-29-2019 at 11:02 AM.
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LakeFever, AZMIDLYF, XstreamVking, Whaaaaat, Capt.Insane-o, JrCRXHF, Glasstream15, rgsauger liked this post
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08-29-2019, 11:03 AM #28Junior Member
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Thanks with that info. Very interesting. I do know very little about cleavers. Any suggestion what to try?
Last edited by Starholk; 08-29-2019 at 11:05 AM.
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08-29-2019, 11:39 AM #29
with the old style cle caes,,,probably with 1" propshafts id be trying 28 x 14 1/2 to 15"
3 blade mercury cleavers or os mazcos are cheapest to find used to try
4 blade mercury humpbacks would do best for the hull,,,cost more for testing
then id go to dewald for best props 1nce u find what u need,,,,expensive but knows race props
these are all over hub props,,,like the choppers u have just pointed eared cleavers
can look on the prop section here to see some
I sold the ex caliber last yr to a guy that saw it at a poker run and wanted it when he saw it passing 32-38' boats in the rough ,,,lol
I just sold my last set of props few months ago had 30s and 32s and sold cheap
as don't have small shaft motors any more
,,,,,,,id love to have that hull here,,,,,,,
looks awsome and know will ride awsome in 2-4'ers fast
great candidate for a single new 450r,,,,wont be super fast but ride great
twin modified 300x motors know id would go past 100
again as a fast wave crusher not a calm water high speed hull
28 tuff would be that in that size with the twins,,,,
also if u measure from end of hull (where k planes are) to where motors mount and tell me width of jack plates
I can give u a good start point on motor heightLast edited by johnmiffco; 08-29-2019 at 11:53 AM.
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Glasstream15 liked this post
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08-29-2019, 11:58 AM #30
Should that hull have props turning in or out?
Azure AZ259, 8.1
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