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  1. #16
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    Aug 2016
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    If I raise my engine up 3 notches (all the way up) my prop centerline will still be 3-3/4" below the pad. I'm gonna do that in the Spring.

    I dug into info on my Stilleto 23p prop. It's long discontinued, but was part of their "Advantage II" lineup. Supposedly they run 1 - 2" stiff and are similar to Laser II props. Once I raise the motor up, maybe that's all I'll need to do. But I might still get a Solas Scorpion prop just to see the difference.

  2. #17
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    Feb 2004
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    North Tonawanda, NY
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    I ran a Pulse 210 back in the 1990s w/225 Evinrude Vindicator and a 24 pitch Raker- the original Raker rather than the crappy Raker II. No jackplate, motor up 3 holes, and no porpoise at any trim setting or speed. Top end was 72 running light which was fine with me. When I was setting the rig up I tried a Turbo 3 blade in 24 pitch but it slipped like crazy and wouldn't hook up. I also tried an OMC chopper in 27 pitch that I had laying around which wouldn't hook up at all.
    Doug

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    Barrie, Ontario, Canada
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    My 1990 Panther ( Canadian built) from the 18'-6 checkmate molds did not experience the porpoising you are describing. Mind you i had a hydraulic jack plate and replaced all the rotten transom, stringers and floor. It ran 55 mph with a 135 merc, 70 mph with a 175 opti, and 86 with a 225x. Best top end prop was an 28 ET. Best all round prop was a 27 tempest.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 18 Panther 040.jpg  
    Triad V21 #002 - 15in DBR 300 xs
    19' J-Craft - 175 Opti
    18' Pontoon - 115 CT 4S

  4. #19
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    Aug 2016
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    Time for an update. I've had the Pulse 186 out twice this Spring. The first time was to remind myself of everything I previously described. Then I raised the motor 3 notches -- up to the top. Today I drove in the 25 - 40 mph range with a lot less porpoising, but with increased blowouts before getting on plane. In the short term I might lower it a notch. But I think a jackplate may be in order. Still have not bought the Solas Rubex Scorpion S3 (partridge in a pear tree) prop, but I'll report back when I do.

    On a side note: I constantly have to adjust the throttle on this thing, because it just won't stay where I put it. Is the stiffness adjustment in the handle itself, or somewhere on the engine? Mercury Xri 175.

  5. #20
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    Sep 2019
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    Lake Keowee, SC
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    I have a 24P Scorpion, brand new, 10 minutes of run time. I had it listed in the prop section.

  6. #21
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    Feb 2005
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    seattle
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    its going to porpoise until the centerline is less than 2 to even zero. watch out for over heating and/or lack of water pressure. secondly some 4 bladed prop coulD get the transom totaly out of the water and you could lose steering.

  7. Thanks Grant Conklin thanked for this post
  8. #22
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    Aug 2016
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    Thanks hsbob. I do have a pressure gauge, and knowing that about the centerline is helpful. I finally bought a 10" manual jack plate yesterday, so I'll be moving the prop centerline higher. I'm looking forward to seeing how that changes things.

    The last time I was out, I was up to 5900 RPM (family of four and a full tank of gas) with my 23p x 14" prop that may or may not run 1-2" stiff. Since the WOT spec is 5500, I know I can go with a stiffer prop, but the Solas / Rubex S3 Scorpion prop I'm considering already runs about 2" stiff. I'm wondering if that has more to do with the fact that it's a 15-1/8" diameter prop than anything else. I'm torn as to whether I should be buying a 23p or 24p S3 Scorpion.

  9. #23
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    Years ago I had a 216 Wellcraft Eclipse. A 23P Mirage (not a Mirage Plus) and a 23P Stilleto ran about the same speed and rpm. I think the Stilleto was 1 mph slower. A 23P Mirage typically turns 200 rpm more than 23P Mirage Plus.

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