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Thread: Flooding Looper

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrichartz View Post
    Just finished looking thru what I had and no 78d..
    Running 77d in them..

    Forget but whats compression #s on your motor?
    130-145 in the beginning of break in, haven’t checked since, hopefully a bit more even now...

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMP View Post
    read your plugs
    Yea, I know, problem is that I’am being a chicken. I don’t want to hold it at wot for any longer durations due to the surgeing sensation. I’ve tried before on bikes with craters and holes in the piston dome as a result.
    Piston domes has got the nice wash around the intakes that you want, but that is a result of crusing speeds in the midrange curcuits, 2800-3200rpms

  3. #18
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    Go through the ign testing everything , including the correct spark plug wires if you haven't already.
    I thought you had all new components from the building thread?

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain75 View Post
    Yea, I know, problem is that I’am being a chicken. I don’t want to hold it at wot for any longer durations due to the surgeing sensation. I’ve tried before on bikes with craters and holes in the piston dome as a result.
    Piston domes has got the nice wash around the intakes that you want, but that is a result of crusing speeds in the midrange curcuits, 2800-3200rpms
    Come on grow a pair and WOT it...
    Just kidding yea know how you feel when I first started motors my temp gauges were reading 20-30* f hotter than my ir gun no where on motor was that hot I was paranoid to let them run..wouldn't get any hotter and never over heated
    But I changed all the senders, stats and went thru 4-5 times anything to do with cooling..lol
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor

  5. #20
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    Put a set of larger non drilled jets in it and compare. When they are too rich the exhaust sounds flatter and flatter as rpm increases. Same as when a plug is fouled.
    Gary

    I don't know enough, to leave well enough alone.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMP View Post
    Go through the ign testing everything , including the correct spark plug wires if you haven't already.
    I thought you had all new components from the building thread?
    Yep, all parts are fresh! Only old part is the recifier, but that one works fine!
    Still don’t know why the carb flooded!? The float and seat that got swiched both look like new!
    It might of course have been a leaking gasket/warped float bowl.
    I might be an overly rich condition!? My mains (drilled) measures 0.082”
    Last edited by Captain75; 08-17-2019 at 01:14 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gfinch View Post
    Put a set of larger non drilled jets in it and compare. When they are too rich the exhaust sounds flatter and flatter as rpm increases. Same as when a plug is fouled.
    Would love to, the problem is bigger untouched jets...
    What’s flatter
    sound?

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain75 View Post
    Would love to, the problem is bigger untouched jets...
    What’s flatter
    sound?
    I wouldn't rule out ignition just yet. Hook at DVA meter up to the coil primary and check voltage on each cylinder one by one as the problem arises on the water. then do the same running test for the sensor coil and timer base. Might reveal something. those power packs have done some really weird things when they go bad (for me anyway).

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  10. #24
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    Surging / two things fuel supply pres/ float level ...I’ve been a master Evinrude / Johnson mech from 91 looking at your 5800 rpm running out of fuel seats can’t supply enough fuel @ 5psi can at 7 psi but floats can’t hold seats closed fix swap to cross flow seats or drill out seat to .60 ths this is delicate work have to be done from back of seat an dressed by hand . FYI I pressure check them before assembly on engine easier fixing if one leaks also have float slightly negative before level for a better seal

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    Use NGK BUHW better running easier plug reading

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    That size jet should be good if cowl inlet air is removed from inside on back the black delivery channel

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    If you don’t have intake baffle tube internals 85 mains are right on with 22 deg full advance so take your boat to the ramp till the cavation plate just touches an engine level with water warm up put in gear stab throttle ( one engine at a time) take timing check if you do at max timing pickup an not full rpm timing will be 2 deg less also immediately shut down check plugs for fuel mix reading if your gonna run up to that 8000rpm use xd100 or opti oil at 40:1 so it will last opti has a octane Inhancer increase in it for reg fuel I’ve run it for years no smoke means more power I’ve had hammerd mine on the wood 6700 for 15 miles to out run a lightning storm ended up noticing my Flo torque was showing some melting after removing prop for storage

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  15. #28
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    On a roll !!!!!!

  16. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrG View Post
    Surging / two things fuel supply pres/ float level ...I’ve been a master Evinrude / Johnson mech from 91 looking at your 5800 rpm running out of fuel seats can’t supply enough fuel @ 5psi can at 7 psi but floats can’t hold seats closed fix swap to cross flow seats or drill out seat to .60 ths this is delicate work have to be done from back of seat an dressed by hand . FYI I pressure check them before assembly on engine easier fixing if one leaks also have float slightly negative before level for a better seal
    Great info, Many thanks!
    Slightly negative before level?

  17. #30
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    Like suggested in post #6.

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