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Thread: Flooding Looper

  1. #31
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    Post the build link , maybe MrG hasn't seen the work.

  2. #32
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    I forget which cowl are you using? Older or newer?
    I thought I remembered you changing it but could be thinking of something else.
    And comp 130-145--whats full adv timing?
    Stock 18btdc on your motor correct did you back it down for comp 16?
    Was Looking for build thread.
    Can't remember which motor 2.7 or 3.0 or comb
    Last edited by mrichartz; 08-24-2019 at 08:12 AM.
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrichartz View Post
    I forget which cowl are you using? Older or newer?
    I thought I remembered you changing it but could be thinking of something else.
    And comp 130-145--whats full adv timing?
    Stock 18btdc on your motor correct did you back it down for comp 16?
    Was Looking for build thread.
    Can't remember which motor 2.7 or 3.0 or comb
    3.0 closed deck, 2.7 heads and cooling. Old cowling.
    18deg at wot.
    I will change my cowling for the newer -98 Ocean Pro, but I need to find a set of lower cowlings because mine has been cut to accept a wingplate.
    Last edited by Captain75; 08-24-2019 at 11:59 PM.

  4. #34
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    ”flow seats or drill out seat to .60 ths this is delicate work have to be done from back of seat an dressed by hand”

    Mr G: you mean .060”, right? I live in the metric world, so I must ask!

  5. #35
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    .060 inch=1.524 millimeter

    i still think this is a simpler unit of measurement old school
    Last edited by MrG; 08-25-2019 at 09:47 AM.

  6. #36
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    MR G 22 degrees of timing is too much. Properly set up carbs/fuel system does not need 7psi of fuel pressure. I agree cross flow needle and seats help and with them 5psi is enough to feed 350 plus HP on a V6 looper.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by racer View Post
    MR G 22 degrees of timing is too much. Properly set up carbs/fuel system does not need 7psi of fuel pressure. I agree cross flow needle and seats help and with them 5psi is enough to feed 350 plus HP on a V6 looper.
    With compression should be 16*bdtc correct?
    if it's even @145 ..starting point and go from there ??
    Holley red w 4-5 psi is plenty it's 90 gph
    I thought he was running a holley red.. looking for build thread
    Last edited by mrichartz; 08-26-2019 at 02:17 PM.
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrichartz View Post
    With compression should be 16*bdtc correct if it's even @145 ..starting point and go from there
    Holley red w 4-5 psi is plenty it's 90 gph
    I thought he was running a holley red.. looking for build thread
    Holley blue, regulated to 5.5psi before fuelrail.

  9. #39
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    I went back into my engine build setup and I started with 18 deg after breakin and 20hr later final timing was set to 26 * with reg fuel my set up is with 160 psi carbs wide open

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain75 View Post
    Holley blue, regulated to 5.5psi before fuelrail.
    Hey, Cap can you make a list of what you've done to motor
    In one reply...just curious again what's done and can't find/ part to lazy to look thru all of it again..
    Thanks
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor

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    Boysen reeds forged wisco .30 ,big bore carbs 60 seats 85 jets screw on intake cover mod removed aft air deflector from cowl, shaved heads polished chambers port matched blockhalvs open lower cylinder ports polished round radius traditions ,raised exhaust ports 1.67 Pluged exhaust reliefs rods an pistons ballenced within 1/2 gram ,reed assembly manifold cut down to stuff crankcase ,cleaned up exhaust adaptor match & clean castings 40:1 opti oil mix stock fuel pump https://youtu.be/Hlyxok6634k
    Last edited by MrG; 08-26-2019 at 06:53 PM.

  12. #42
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    First thing about fuel pressure, the pump puts out the most volume at 1 psi. Fuel pressure is not your problem. If it was surging because it was running out of fuel you would hurt a cylinder. Drilled jets are not ideal but I have used them with great success, drilled jets are not your problem. I would Run the engine to the point that it starts surging for a few seconds and cut the ignition and look at the plugs. My guess is you will find one plug is real fat. It sounds like ignition to me. Do you have single power pack or duel power packs? If you find a plug that looks different change the coil from another cylinder and see if the plug difference follows the coil. If it does not change, swap the power pack leads and see if it follows to the other side. That would be my plan of attack.

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  14. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrichartz View Post
    Hey, Cap can you make a list of what you've done to motor
    In one reply...just curious again what's done and can't find/ part to lazy to look thru all of it again..
    Thanks
    List of mods:
    P/H 3.0 Closed deck -98/99
    • Midbores with adjustable throttle bodies
    • -86 adapter and mid.
    • Exhaust ports raised and widened to 250 specs.
    • Exh idle reliefs closed (set screws and jb weld)
    • All casting imperfections removed from all ports, intake mainfolds, and rodslots.
    • Sleeves and casting matched on all intake ports while stock exit angles and durations has been maintained (hopefully).
    • This last winter a huge amount of extra work was added to ensure a smooth transitation from the cyl floors into lower port entrances and port cavities iot increase speed and reduce turbulence.
    • All bores has been honed straight and round, wiseco’s added.
    • Piston F/p holes has been enlarged and matched to each sleeve openings.
    • The reedcages has been lapped and entrances matched with intakes, CCMS stuffers and stock gaskets.
    • Intake mainfold angles towards the reeds has been adjusted to better ensure a ”straight shot” towards reeds. Finally, after all grinding, the mainfolds were sandblasted internally, iot create a surface that promotes proper fuel/air atomization.
    • CCMS stuffers has been mounted between cages and mainfolds. All the empty cavities around the reedcages has been filled.
    • Block counter bores has been filled with wooden dowels.
    • The exh adapter has been cleaned from casting flaws and the transitation between p/h and adapter has been improved.
    • Stock 2.7 heads are being used, together with added cooling dams between the chambers.
    • The stock flywheel has been lightened on a lathe.
    • The upper idle reliefs situated high on the back of the mid has been enlargened (~20mm) and drilled straight through into the can, iot promote a better off idle response aswell as a sweet sound.
    • Lower has got 3 holes drilled(14mm) on each side, just above cav plate.
    • The VRO has been removed and replaced with an Holley blue, set at 6psi. The VRO cavity has been filled with epoxy.
    • 2.7 dual pack ignition system
    • Complete 2.7 cooling system


    When I stab the throttle motor instantly jumps to 5500, trim just above neutral. When I trim out further to gain bow lift and rpm, that is when the problem starts. Floats set level or just slightly passed the fuel bowl edge when held inverted.
    Since I don’t have a powerlift, It’s hard to tell weather the problem is caused by how trim angle is affecting the floats and fuel delivery!?
    Last edited by Captain75; 08-27-2019 at 01:33 AM.

  15. #44
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    G so your saying you are running regular 87 octane gas at 26 degrees with 160 PSI using 1986 big bore carbs. Only way that does not burn one down in short order is if it is overly rich and even then doubtful unless your heads are not flowing properly. Stock at 18 degrees and 100 psi, no way you add 60 psi and 8 degrees unless something else is wrong. That compression on 110 octane race gas starts to loose power at 20 when flowing correctly.

  16. #45
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    I know it’s not running overly rich if so it would not turn up an run on the rev limiter exon 87 I only been using for years I’m running cooler thermostats also water popit valve on block was opened up to .500 for extra cooling To the heads using buhw ngk plugs leaving out the chance for pre Ignition Tang for plug,there is more to tuning to keep a engine from melting Plugs play a major factor at high rpm and I know for a fact correct fuel starts at the valve seats in the carb .53 ths is not enough flow to keep up with the upper rpm for the jet size yes mine like to run with 82 mains but only in 65deg air not 97 in summer stated pinging on test wheel all my plug checks were done initially on test wheel an if your Ballsey enough too run WFO kill into neutral coast to stop pull to read the plugs then that’s accurate FYI 300xs is at 30-34 Etec 225ho 28 250xs 26 my old racing buddy Mike Anderson an I did these checks 7 years ago to find out what the computers were putting in for timing of course the fuel curve we could not see check out the running link I posted that run was on the wood !! Also he had the triple V 8 Rud’s An the Hydro stream that screamed with the v8 all needed fuel to the bowls main culprit seat even a 2.5 merc has larger delivery past the seats I’ve been thru many re builds an some knowledge I’ve never given esp to have repeated an not get $ this guy is in old school territory of mine and not in a turn an turn an go / check the shift interrupt service as well including routing of wires have to use (Resistor plugs)
    Last edited by MrG; 08-27-2019 at 10:20 AM.

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