1987 2.0l 150 want to change from rectifier to regulator

[nitro_rat]

How about swapping to a 9amp stator. that will reduce your charging capacity and free up some hp. it will work with your existing flywheel...

[FORBESAUTO]

Yep, that’s one if the early regs. Can’t get that one no mo.

[pcrussell50]

And while under way, I see voltages between 13.5 and 16.5. Does that mean the old kool regulator isn't working or has failed?

-Peter

[j_martin]

That's the shunt regulator. Pitch it, and the rectifier, and mount a 20 amp 5 or 6 wire regulator from a later engine where that regulator is, (looks like it'll bolt right in, but you might need to make an adapter plate) Wire the regulator like I said above and it'll work just fine.

[pcrussell50]

That's the shunt regulator. Pitch it, and the rectifier, and mount a 20 amp 5 or 6 wire regulator from a later engine where that regulator is, (looks like it'll bolt right in, but you might need to make an adapter plate) Wire the regulator like I said above and it'll work just fine.

Thanks, mate. I believe I will do just that. Especially since I'm changing out all the old wires anyway.

-Peter

[Darkcloud]

great info all. just want to know how I would be able to tell if my 1985 150Hp is 16 or 40 amp system please

Pete

[tlwjkw]

most all 150 up V6 stuff were 16 amp from 'bout '80/'81 till '89.. thats when tha 40 amp stuff showed up.. '89 ta '91 40's had a big ole water cooled combination rec/reg on tha divider plate.. it went away in lieu of tha twin 20 amp rec/reg.. both have a lot bigger (thicker, immediate 40 amp identifier) flywheel.. first ones were a flex plate type and later were cast type.............

[Darkcloud]

most all 150 up V6 stuff were 16 amp from 'bout '80/'81 till '89.. thats when tha 40 amp stuff showed up.. '89 ta '91 40's had a big ole water cooled combination rec/reg on tha divider plate.. it went away in lieu of tha twin 20 amp rec/reg.. both have a lot bigger (thicker, immediate 40 amp identifier) flywheel.. first ones were a flex plate type and later were cast type.............

thank you. I’d be lost at sea without you guys.

[Darkcloud]

Didn't think to mention earlier because it didn't match the regulators that were being mentioned. Just wondering if this is my regulator on top of port head. Doesn't look like what has been described in this thread. Can't find in parts diagram, not in same spot as two wire regulator and has three wires coming out. Red / white with black stripe / black.
Thanks all

[pcrussell50]

Didn't think to mention earlier because it didn't match the regulators that were being mentioned. Just wondering if this is my regulator on top of port head. Doesn't look like what has been described in this thread. Can't find in parts diagram, not in same spot as two wire regulator and has three wires coming out. Red / white with black stripe / black.
Thanks all

One of the S&F legends can correct me but that looks like one of the modules you are “supposed” to remove, if your are following the standard S&F guidance for mid-80’s Merc V6’s. All three of mine, V150, 150XR2, and 2.4/200 have those modules removed and the oil system removed and properly capped.

HTH

-Peter

[tlwjkw]

Didn't think to mention earlier because it didn't match the regulators that were being mentioned. Just wondering if this is my regulator on top of port head. Doesn't look like what has been described in this thread. Can't find in parts diagram, not in same spot as two wire regulator and has three wires coming out. Red / white with black stripe / black.
Thanks all

thats usually called one of two names.. idle or advance stabilizer module.. yes, it needs ta go away.

[Darkcloud]

Hey all.
question for you, why do you remove the idle module mentioned above. What does it do?

darkcloud

[pcrussell50]

Hey all.
question for you, why do you remove the idle module mentioned above. What does it do?

darkcloud

As always, the legends can correct me if I’m wrong but I believe it is supposed to sense if the rpm is dropping and then adds a little timing to keep it from stalling. I think the reason people here don’t like it is that it is an extra thing that interferes with your tuning efforts, and if it goes crook on you, it can confound your troubleshooting efforts. And if you tune it really spot-on, you will barely need it anyway.

I have always been able to tune my 150XR2 without it, and that is even with the top two cylinders low compression.
(I’ll be using 2.4/200 powerhead I found, while I replace those two weak cylinders).

-Peter

[rgsauger]

They can also fail and throw more timing in the mix than you planned for. Ran great until it melted down…..