1987 2.0l 150 want to change from rectifier to regulator

**pcrussell50** · 08-09-2019, 08:59 PM

Is it just a simple tit for tat swap?

or do I need a different stator and trigger as well?

and if it’s a straightforward swap, which one should I get?

and would it be a direct bolt-on?

thanks as always

-Peter

**FORBESAUTO** · 08-09-2019, 09:14 PM

Have to swap to new style regulator that is the regulator and rectifier all in one. It’s the same regulator as on the the 40 amp system, you just only use one. Pro-Marine offers a kit that includes a bracket you install on top of engine block between the heads and all hardware needed to make connections. No other changes needed. The new style is sensitive to voltage spikes, so make all connections are good and clean and tight on all charging components and battery.

**pcrussell50** · 08-10-2019, 02:51 AM

Just to be sure, is this the one I need from pro marine?

http://parts.promarineusa.com/produc...0/1/1/194-8825

Thanks.

-Peter

**FORBESAUTO** · 08-10-2019, 07:53 AM

That’s it, only suggest the kit for the bracket to mount it. The regulator is the same as the 40 amp system, just need a place to mount it. I personally don’t like the bullet connectors, seen too many fail on higher amp side and burn, I’ll use some other type connector if handy or just solder the connections.

Why ya changing over? I’ve found that it’s more reliable to run just a rectifier with no regulator on a 16 amp system. Most rigs nowadays have enough consumers on them that it’ll never overcharge with only 16 amps. But if ya need a regulator, have no choice but go to new style because old regulator is NLA. Say all this because I’ve flopped both ways, after having to replace a couple of those high dollar rascals because it stopped working, decided a $13 rectifier that hardly ever fails was a good idea

. I am running it on a bass boat with multiple GPS units, and live wells, so the regulator was just along for the ride anyway

**pcrussell50** · 08-10-2019, 12:39 PM

I'm opposite situation from you. I have nearly no electrical loads, and I put the battery on a maintainer when I put the boat back in the garage for the night. I guess maybe I don't _need_ to upgrade my system? Maybe just add more distilled water to the battery every few hours running time and keep going like I am?

-Peter

**FORBESAUTO** · 08-11-2019, 07:15 AM

If you overcharge by running only a rectifier without a regulator, then you need to upgrade to new style. It’s too hard on the battery and kills the life of it if it’s not being charged or if it’s being overcharged. Very seldom do you have an overcharging condition, but is possible if your making long high speed runs with no loads.

**j_martin** · 08-13-2019, 08:18 AM

I've played with this a lot. I found that the regulators have a reputation for failure. I also found out from several failures on my engine that the mode of failure is the connectors on the stator (yellow) wires heating up. The heat then travels down the heavy copper wires to the regulator and cooks it. I soldered the last regulator in years ago and never had another lick of trouble since.

**pcrussell50** · 08-13-2019, 10:50 AM

Well damn.

Here's a confuser: there is a regulator on my motor. Sitting right there at the top, aft of the flywheel. I'm pretty sure my motor (1987 2.0l 150) wasn't supposed to have one. At least it's not mentioned in the factory service manual I have. So somebody added it.

I bought this powerhead used off eBay a few years ago. It's been great after I fixed a couple of things like re doing the bleed lines and putting a proper plug in where the oil pulser was in the intake manifold. So the presence of the regulator is a new thing. Hmmm... Since my factory manual doesn't mention a regulator, I don't even have any idea how to wire in a regulator when there is also a rectifier there too. Weird.

-Peter

**FORBESAUTO** · 08-13-2019, 12:00 PM

The early system had a regulator and a rectifier as two separate components. The replacement regulators are NLA. Reason why you have to convert to the new electronic style that incorporates the rectifier. Is your regulator you have look like the boxy new style, like it’s already been converted, or old style?

**pcrussell50** · 08-13-2019, 12:02 PM

Originally Posted by FORBESAUTO

The early system had a regulator and a rectifier as two separate components. The replacement regulators are NLA. Reason why you have to convert to the new electronic style that incorporates the rectifier. Is your regulator you have look like the boxy new style, like it’s already been converted, or old style?

Headed to my shop right now, I'll take a look. Thanks. Boy without you guys I'd be lost in the woods on this.

-Peter

**pcrussell50** · 08-13-2019, 02:35 PM

So here's my motor with the square'ish regulator at the top:

The red and yellow wires go to the rectifier. If I'm seeing voltages as high as 15 while under way, does that mean that the regulator has failed?

(Yes, that's my Viper in the background with the pile of jumper cables on the deck)

-Peter

**FORBESAUTO** · 08-13-2019, 05:57 PM

Me ain’t seeing no pic

. But yes if ya getting 15 volts reg ain’t reggin. To install the new regulator, just remove ya rectifier, the yellow from stator will go to yellow on new reg, grey tach wire to grey on reg, red to red and black to ground. Don’t use the bullets supplied, soldering is best, just a little xtra work if ya need to remove it.

**j_martin** · 08-13-2019, 06:49 PM

Would like to actually see a picture.
The original system had a rectifier. Some, not many had a regulator that basically shunted excess to ground. All the voltage regulation, either by the battery or by the shunt regulator was accomplished by wasting power to hold the voltage down. They held the stator voltage down as well. The rectifier has 3 terminals, and the regulator 1 or 2.

The later regulator modules are true regulators that decouple when the load is satisfied, allowing the stator voltage to climb. and actually using less power. That unit has the rectification and regulation functions all in one potted component. 16 amp systems use one module. 40 amp (dual coil) systems have 2, each with it's own 20 amp stator winding, and the outputs wired in parallel. These had 5 active wires, and the later ones had a ground wire as well. Yellow is stator, the 2 reds are 12V out in parallel, (both to battery +) and the grey is tachometer drive. Ground would be black.

hope it helps