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  1. #1
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    98 200EFI set up

    Looking at a clean 1998 200EFI and wondering about how to set it up for my Valero? It does not have a LWP which I will add but aside from that and the prop I'm wondering about the EFI and performance mods? Is there anything that can be done with the stock engine computer as in tuning software or limiter raise? Or is Brucato the only way to fly here? Or do I leave it stock and focus on props. Current owner says the limiter is 5800RPM, my 135 buzzes higher than that so whats the max safe RPM on a stock 200efi?

    Are there black boxes to delete on these? Oil injection ok or should that go too?
    Last edited by LakeFever; 07-16-2019 at 08:45 AM.
    Hydrostream dreamin

  2. #2
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    I dont think those ecu?(comp) can b modified but dont take my word for it , but u can always find diff computer like a promax ecu , or sumthin somebody has already remapped , but member , stock will only support so much compression b4 starts getting lean , but still lots of mods can b done to it
    Always get rid oil injection , unless u keep it stock ,it mite last forever or go out tomo ,

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    Ya I put a deposit on it so if it checks out when I see it I own it. Did the oil injection not get any more reliable in the later years? With the efi it would be nice to keep it no?
    Hydrostream dreamin

  4. #4
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    Cutting heads to top pump gas compression IS THE biggest bang for the buck and if you keep compression @ 140 at sea level the computer doesn’t need remapping I cut them daily for you motor ... No the oiling system is a weak link and could be the bad actor that takes your motor out ....

    Jay @ JSRE
    Jay @ JSRE

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    Good to know thanks. Is there any concerns with EFI and premix or special considerations I have to do or keep an eye to run pre mix? Wondering about clogging injectors or filters etc. 32:1? Injectors are probably due for a cleaning as well by now I would guess
    Last edited by LakeFever; 07-19-2019 at 04:56 AM.
    Hydrostream dreamin

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    I have a 27p Mazco chopper and a 26p big ear chopper. The lower is still stock so I will probably try a Tempest. Any other prop recommendations? Pitch/style

    18' Valero V ( same as Vking hull )
    Hydrostream dreamin

  8. #7
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    40.1 ratio and tempest,trophy, fury, bblades also make a good thru hub. until lwpu then throw on chopper

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    My buddy has a decent 27p tempest so I’ll probably try that. I also have access to an empty sportsmaster case. Any idea what it will cost for internals to set that up?
    Hydrostream dreamin

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by LakeFever View Post
    Looking at a clean 1998 200EFI and wondering about how to set it up for my Valero? It does not have a LWP which I will add but aside from that and the prop I'm wondering about the EFI and performance mods? Is there anything that can be done with the stock engine computer as in tuning software or limiter raise? Or is Brucato the only way to fly here? Or do I leave it stock and focus on props. Current owner says the limiter is 5800RPM, my 135 buzzes higher than that so whats the max safe RPM on a stock 200efi?
    We can fix you up,remap the ecu and raise the limiter,add our reeds/stuffers,intake spacer if you have room,cut heads,remove oil injector,and clean and position your fuel injectors,big gain without a teardown.Like checkin with your doctor to see if your heart is healthy enough to...A compression and leakdown test are in order,doing this work to a well worn or hurt motor will finish it off quick,Chris

    Are there black boxes to delete on these? Oil injection ok or should that go too?
    definately loose the oil mixer and modules.

  11. #10
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    Never messed with one myself , I hear on lots of setups the coned lower faster, but that's a call for someone that's run The combo

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    I have no issue putting a cone on the stock lower if that’s a better way to fly. Regarding the modules/black boxes; are these removed in the same manner as the old carb motors or is it a different process with the efi? In fact what is the electric system on these? 16amp? 40amp?

    as for the lower do the internals swap over from a stock to the sporty?
    Hydrostream dreamin

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    Well I try answer what I can , black boxes should b mostly same for idle advance/timin retard over x rpm(?) Of course retime the motor according,,, if u have a big bearing case the sporty guts mite just work , least carrier I think , maybe look into havin it pinned, never have built a lower myself , gonna try soon tho. If it's a small bearing case it wont work,
    If stock 40 amp

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    Picked it up today, and brought the boat it was hanging on back home too I couldn’t resist there’s so much metal flake I just had to have it. Motor runs great, very clean, tight lower unit. Thanks for the tips gents, I’ll update as I get into it
    Hydrostream dreamin

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    The fuel tank cap is broken and looks to be vented. Is that because for efi or can I place a regular one on there? Typical chrome threaded oring type with some sort of grey vented deal on top that’s broke. I have a smooth chromey so what say y’all?
    Hydrostream dreamin

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by LakeFever View Post
    I have no issue putting a cone on the stock lower if that’s a better way to fly.

    as for the lower do the internals swap over from a stock to the sporty?
    A coned stock lower is usually the ticket on a hydrostream. The early "big bearing" case is preferable to the late model style that your 200 efi came with originally. The big bearing case is a ratcheting design that will allow the prop to freewheel when you slow down and come off plane. The late style case will not freewheel and can cause undesirable handling characteristics on a v bottom hull on deceleration.

    The guts from a big bearing case will drop into a sportmaster, the late style non ratcheting small bearing stuff will not.

    Quote Originally Posted by LakeFever View Post
    The fuel tank cap is broken and looks to be vented. Is that because for efi or can I place a regular one on there? Typical chrome threaded oring type with some sort of grey vented deal on top that’s broke. I have a smooth chromey so what say y’all?
    The tank needs to be vented. If there is a separate external vent (usually a chrome fitting on the deck) then a standard cap will work. If the cap vent is the only vent it should be retained. Otherwise the fuel pump will try to collapse the tank and eventually you will lean out the motor as the pump starves!

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