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Thread: Engineblock bad

  1. #1
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    Engineblock bad

    Hi, need some help,

    I know there are a lot of very clever and good mechanics on the Scream and Fly forums :-)

    First day of my vacation and my engine on the famely boat let go. It is an2004 yamaha F100 4-stroke and it will be changed for a new F150 Merc next year.
    What happend is that the engineblock has a smal hole 1x5mm between cooling and exhaust so it fille the cylinder with water.

    Have anyone tried using chemical metal as an emrgency fix for this? Noone would like to try and weld it and i am not that a good velder to try myself..

    Sorry, i do not have a picture.

    Thanks for the help in advance!!!!

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    It may work, may not. How far out from the dock you willing to be when it fails?

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    Living aroaund a small lake so i can get to land within a couple of hours windy or not. This is not an offshore boat :-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by a.m View Post
    Living aroaund a small lake so i can get to land within a couple of hours windy or not. This is not an offshore boat :-)
    Worth a shot then

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    small hole..... then 1/4 20 bolts and washers.......with glopppy stuff to seal.....We be talkin NORGE close to that place that has no dealers....Or buy a norggy marine.... 400,,,,,, 100 hp water cooled special....Just kiddin.....A.M. HeeHee.......

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave S View Post
    small hole..... then 1/4 20 bolts and washers.......with glopppy stuff to seal.....We be talkin NORGE close to that place that has no dealers....Or buy a norggy marine.... 400,,,,,, 100 hp water cooled special....Just kiddin.....A.M. HeeHee.......
    Actually a good idea if you can put a bolt and nut to cover the hole..... or even drill and tap a hole and put a modified bolt in with loc-tite.....
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

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    The true nature of the four strokes will become more and more evident as time moves on. Especially those that don't get put on the hose after each use. So many nooks and crannies for water to sit and eat away at the castings... till in many cases, it's too late.

    That 1/4" hole your seeing, thunk it pretty good with a center punch all around it. No hammer, just the punch. You'll see how that aluminum comes off in little sheets or breaks away in layers. Neither weld or epoxy will stick until you get down to bare "clean" material. And then the head / block will need to be outgassed in an oven before it's clean enough to weld.

    It's going to move around quite a bit ( in terms of engine tolerances ) even if it's tied to a surface plate. And will need at the minimum, all machined surfaces checked for flatness. Cylinder bores and valve guides checked for size, and valve seats for concentricity. Check to make sure the Ex.valves didn't get "stretched + tulip" shaped from steam cleaning.

    It's kind of like a tooth ache. By the time it hurts for the second or third time really good ... It's well past time to get a root canal, or have that thing yanked out right now !

    By the time you find that 1/4" hole, the number of processes that need to be done to make it serviceable once again are pretty crazy. Most guys won't even attempt it.

    I did a Alka-zuki head a couple weeks ago off a little pea-shooter. Guy said, I ain't got much money, I told him Brother you should just go buy a new one. He said they want almost $3000.00 for a new head. I said yea , I meant a whole new one , aint they like $ 7000.00 ??? I aint got that kinda money ... so anything less than $3000.00 is a bargin then ... right ???? It was less than $500.00 and I'll be long dead before it rots out again ...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chaz View Post
    The true nature of the four strokes will become more and more evident as time moves on. Especially those that don't get put on the hose after each use. So many nooks and crannies for water to sit and eat away at the castings... till in many cases, it's too late.

    That 1/4" hole your seeing, thunk it pretty good with a center punch all around it. No hammer, just the punch. You'll see how that aluminum comes off in little sheets or breaks away in layers. Neither weld or epoxy will stick until you get down to bare "clean" material. And then the head / block will need to be outgassed in an oven before it's clean enough to weld.

    It's going to move around quite a bit ( in terms of engine tolerances ) even if it's tied to a surface plate. And will need at the minimum, all machined surfaces checked for flatness. Cylinder bores and valve guides checked for size, and valve seats for concentricity. Check to make sure the Ex.valves didn't get "stretched + tulip" shaped from steam cleaning.

    It's kind of like a tooth ache. By the time it hurts for the second or third time really good ... It's well past time to get a root canal, or have that thing yanked out right now !

    By the time you find that 1/4" hole, the number of processes that need to be done to make it serviceable once again are pretty crazy. Most guys won't even attempt it.

    I did a Alka-zuki head a couple weeks ago off a little pea-shooter. Guy said, I ain't got much money, I told him Brother you should just go buy a new one. He said they want almost $3000.00 for a new head. I said yea , I meant a whole new one , aint they like $ 7000.00 ??? I aint got that kinda money ... so anything less than $3000.00 is a bargin then ... right ???? It was less than $500.00 and I'll be long dead before it rots out again ...
    The Suzuki and hondas around here are the worst. Almost weekly we have one that has rotted out

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    Lost foam casting.......Too complex to do Die casting.....HeeHee.... Ol' L6 never had head probs......

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave S View Post
    Lost foam casting.......Too complex to do Die casting.....HeeHee.... Ol' L6 never had head probs......
    Haven't seen and corrosion issues with the newer merc either. At least not anything like the Japanese motors.

  12. #11
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    we wont even work on suzuki unless we are putting it on a pallet

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  14. #12
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    So, i bought Belzona, grinded away all the corroded materials with my old dremel, cleaned and patched it up. Engine has now been driven on a couple of trips of only 5 hours total, but still works. Had WOT for 25 minutes just to check. No problems. Full tank but not fully loaded, max rpm was abaout 5800. This enigne will run in fresh water as long as i have it. I need to adjust the valves since the "reputable" workshop just threw all parts in a box before putting the boat into storage... They actually reparied an engine like this a few years ago and it held up for 3 seasons in saltwater.

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    The 8 bolts on a KG7 were a issue toooooo.

  17. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by a.m View Post
    So, i bought Belzona, grinded away all the corroded materials with my old dremel, cleaned and patched it up. Engine has now been driven on a couple of trips of only 5 hours total, but still works. Had WOT for 25 minutes just to check. No problems. Full tank but not fully loaded, max rpm was abaout 5800. This enigne will run in fresh water as long as i have it. I need to adjust the valves since the "reputable" workshop just threw all parts in a box before putting the boat into storage... They actually reparied an engine like this a few years ago and it held up for 3 seasons in saltwater.
    What happened the fourth season ...

    Glad you got it fixed, just keep your eye on it . Nothin worse than havin the little Alka-Seltzer guy wave his magic wand over your motor and fill a chamber full of water at the most inconvientent time ...

    Good luck ...

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