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  1. #1
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    280 cooling? Washers?

    Trying to get my 280 to run a little cooler. It gets up to 180 degrees and alarm sounds. Although manual says the alarm sounds at 240. Others have said their motors run in 150 range. Wondering what the washers inside each fitting on cylinder heads do. Do they limit the flow to the pee holes? Or are they limiting flow within engine? Would drilling them larger help motor run cooler. Service manual doesn't say much about them. Thanks for any feedback.

  2. #2
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    Don't touch them, their purpose is to vent air out of the block, if you enlarge them your just dumping water before it goes down through the head


    is gone


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  4. #3
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    He’s correct ! What’s your water pressure ? If it’s higher than 18 you have a blockage of spent water leaving the block if it’s lower you water pump is toast ...

    Jay
    Jay @ JSRE

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  6. #4
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    Water pressure is around 14 running 70mph. Lower pressure at lower speed. Water pump is basically new.

  7. #5
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    14 is a bit low for my liking ...

    Jay
    Jay @ JSRE

  8. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by DangerNewb View Post
    Water pressure is around 14 running 70mph. Lower pressure at lower speed. Water pump is basically new.
    Did you replace the base, housing, impeller and gaskets?
    Erik Kiser

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  10. #7
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    It's a brand new lower unit I bought last summer with about 15 hours on it. But I'll replace the entire water pump set up soon. It all looks new.

  11. #8
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    Circling back around to this to alleviate any confusion for someone reading this later on. My temp reading is coming from the sensor in the cylinder head which does not reach into the water passage so I've been referring to head temp, rather than water temp. When my alarm has triggered, I've been able to feel the dump water and its very warm, but it's not 180 degrees. You can hold your hand in it for several seconds. I think others have been referring to water temp so we're comparing apples and oranges. My service manual says the temp alarm shouldn't trigger until 240 degrees and my understanding is the alarm is triggered by the head temp sensor. I'm going to replace that sensor and see if anything changes. I'm pretty sure the alarm is temp related since it holds a steady tone until I back off plane and motor cools 10-15 degrees and the alarm stops. The fittings in the divider plate and the top of the block are being used for my water pressure gauge and the water pressure sensor that feeds to the ECU. So I don't have a spot for a water temp sensor without drilling and tapping another hole which I'm reluctant to do.

    Interesting to note, when I use my serial number of OG857107 on Mercs parts diagrams, it shows a water temp sensor in the hole at the bottom starboard side of the block where my right side water dump is hooked up. Nobody has been able to explain that to me other than to say the parts diagram is wrong and that is where all 280 right side water dumps are hooked up. I don't see how you can have both.

    Bottom line the best I can tell is I'm reading head temp which 180 doesn't seem out of line considering the exhaust temp within a 1/4 inch of that sensor is probably around 1,000 degrees. From feeling my dump water, I don't think it's any hotter than 120-130 when my alarm has triggered.

  12. #9
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    There’s always been issues in the water temp/head temp department. And there’s always been issues running the mercury rubber head temp sender to a gauge that’s designed for the small brass water temp sender. I drilled into my 280’s head up by the thermostat housings, tapped it 1/8npt and installed the brass sender. Water temp would be 130-140 most of the time.


    '95 STV "The Blue Goose"


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  14. #10
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    Having same issue, long block from Mercury racing with about 16 hours. Temp approaching 180 but not quite hitting it. water pressure was 11 psi at WOT. replaced impeller and have 12 now. Going to go and see what senors are hooked to what.
    1986 stratos 180 vt 150 black max. sold
    1998 edge stealth 3.0 efi SOLD
    1994 huricane fun deck 90hp yammy
    2004 STV Euro 280 ROS 15mid Titus Sporty

  15. #11
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    If water pressure is low and all things in the water pump system in its entirety is correct the dump holes ( 2 ) in your 1 piece tuner adapter are too large . People in colder climates where the ambient water temps are cold find my dry stack systems great , my system can be tailored for any temp and or pressure desired by simple changing out a series of 5 choices on spent water plugs leaving the motor I supply 2 large , 2 small, and a blank these can be mixed and matched to make your motor temp and or water pressure anything you desire , my guess like I said earlier your 2 dump holes have been altered and are to large ...

    Good luck,
    Jay @ JSRE
    Last edited by Jay Smith; 07-16-2019 at 07:22 PM.
    Jay @ JSRE

  16. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by larrysmith View Post
    Having same issue, long block from Mercury racing with about 16 hours. Temp approaching 180 but not quite hitting it. water pressure was 11 psi at WOT. replaced impeller and have 12 now. Going to go and see what senors are hooked to what.
    I'd be willing to bet you're reading head temp rather than water temp. Best I can tell, unless you've drilled and tapped your own water temp sensor, you're only reading is coming from the cylinder head sensor which doesn't touch the water. There's a cavity in each cylinder head for a temp sensor. My starboard side has a sensor, other side is empty.

  17. #13
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    I seen after the post last night when I went out and looked that it is head temp. and I did not replace the complete water pump just the impeller. I will be replacing the complete pump soon. Thanks for the impute.
    1986 stratos 180 vt 150 black max. sold
    1998 edge stealth 3.0 efi SOLD
    1994 huricane fun deck 90hp yammy
    2004 STV Euro 280 ROS 15mid Titus Sporty

  18. #14
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    I'm hoping to get some information from the PRO's, I have an unmolested 2001 2.5 Liter 280 hp on the 20' Bullet bass boat. I recently updated the electronics and had the marina replace the water impeller during the stay. I water tested for the 1st time, I felt like it was down on HP, I turned all the new gadgets off and watched the good old RPM gauge, between 5500-6000 rpm she jut falls flat. I pulled the cover and found that a crankcase bleed line had blown off and was spraying fuel all over the bottom 2 injectors, back it went. The facility replaced all the bleed lines but the same issue occurred? I just came off the lake, disappointing, I should be up in the 7700 range. I have the sport master sitting about even with the pad ( I lowered after the 1st run) I'm wondering if you replace a water impeller with the wrong one, would it just stop the engine from turning HIGH RPM range to protect itself?

  19. #15
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    Still struggling with overheat alarm. Tried a new sensor. Still triggers alarm at 180 according to my gauge. Can anyone explain the path of water flow through engine to dump holes. My dump water isn't very hot when the alarm triggers? You can hold your hand in it. Feels maybe 120 or so. Is it possible for engine to be overheating and the dump water not be very hot? I'm going to look over the pump housing and impeller. Install a new impeller etc. But like I said before, everything looks new. The motor is dumping tons of water. It spits out both sides 2 feet back at idle. Any help is appreciated.
    Seebold Ski Eagle w/ Merc 280

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