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06-26-2019, 12:17 AM #1Member
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Is there a way to verify a 1991 Mercury Oil Injection Pump & System working properly?
I transferred a 1991 Mercury 2.4 liter XR4 150 from one bass boat to another. I had to disconnect the oil injection line and transfer the boat mounted tank to the new boat then reconnect everything. The oil line to the fitting that fills the motor mounted tank is connected. The line that goes to the bottom of the block with the brass fitting is connected - I assume this is what provides the air pressure to force oil to the motor mounted tank. I am so afraid that something might be wrong, or it might take a bit for the oil system to start working again properly that I mixed the gas in the gas tank 50:1 with oil. And it’s a good thing I did because it didn't hardly smoke at all the first 2 minutes I ran the engine, but then the smoke definitely seemed to get heavier after about 2 minutes. So I am fine for this tank of gas. But is there a way to verify that the oil pump is properly injecting oil for the next tank of gas?
Thank you
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06-26-2019, 06:11 AM #2Screaming And Flying!
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With oiled fuel going to engine, disconnect oil feed hose from vst.and plug the nipple. Disconnect link arm from oil pump. With engine running at idle observe the oil coming out of pump with pump arm in idle position and then advanced to wot position. Should be a big increase at the wot position. Merc has a measurement of oil per minute for this in the manual. But the increase in the amount of oil will verify it is working.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
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06-26-2019, 07:21 AM #3
Verification of a working system is a great idea. Problem is there is no way to verify the condition of that plastic 18 year old drive gear and with Mercury's reputation for gear failure I think I would rather just disco entire system and safely premix. When that gear fails it gets really expensive and I have sure seen a lot of torn up gears. JMO
RockTeam Junk
No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.
"Screamin Heathen"
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XstreamVking, Dave Strong liked this post
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06-26-2019, 09:30 AM #4Member
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Thank you for the replies.
To XstreamVking: Is the vst the vapor separator tank? Isn't that on Merc's EFI engines? Mine is a carburetor motor. How would that change the instructions you gave?
To Rock: That plastic drive gear is 28 years old, not 18 years old. So it gets better with age, right? (Attempt at humor) I will probably disable the oil injection at some point. But I would have to buy the kit and install it. For the rest of the summer I would like to verify the oil injection and use it the rest of the summer.
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06-26-2019, 09:37 AM #5Screaming And Flying!
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Yes, my mistake. No vst. It would flow to all the carbs with tubing. Nothing really changes.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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06-26-2019, 10:08 AM #6
And I thought I was good at math. Musta been too early.
RockTeam Junk
No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.
"Screamin Heathen"
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07-05-2019, 01:16 PM #7
Doesn't that have a 1 pint or so tank on the engine that the boat tank replenishes? The engine tank has a sensor on the cap that trips the oil alert alarm if the level in the tank drops at all from plumb full. The injection pump draws from the engine tank.
Setup is to loosen the cap on the engine tank and idle the engine until it starts to overflow, then quickly tighten the cap. If you suck a little oil out of that tank, and idle the engine, you should see it fill back up. Disconnect the wires to the cap to test the low oil alarm.
The oil pump has a sensor on the shaft that will trip the alarm if the signal disappears. disconnect that connector to test the alarm.
From there, if you hear the POST beeps when you turn on the ignition switch, yer golden till something breaks.
I usually mix about an ounce of oil per gallon in the fuel tank for emergency lube. I also use synthetic oil to buy a few seconds of grace if something breaks.
BTW, the gear usually hangs in there as long as the oil pump turns freely. All bets are off when the oil pump shaft bushing swells up and binds it. That's the part worth replacing every 10 years or so.To fish or not to fish? What a STUPID question.
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07-06-2019, 08:29 PM #85000 RPM
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Bumblebee Here's some info on oil ratio mixing for a 200 Merc EFI which will not match your 150 but give you some idea . I did the math on oil required but haven't double checked anything yet .
Idle 700 rpm 1.3 gal per hour fuel 80:1 oil =2 oz oil
1000 rpm 2.1 gal per hour fuel 70:1 oil = 3.84 oz oil
2500 rpm 9 gal per hour fuel 60:1 oil = 19.2 oz oil
3500 rpm 15 gal per hour fuel 50:1 oil = 38.4 oz oil
4500 rpm 18 gal per hour fuel 50: 1 oil = 46 oz oil
5500 rpm 21 gal per hour fuel 50:1 oil = 53.76 oz oil
Your 150 should burn something slightly over 15 gal per hour at WOT ( figure 1 gal per 10 HP , per hour @ WOT)
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