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  1. #1
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    06 225 Optimax, Spools up then drops down on power

    I'm having an issue with my 2006 Optimax 225, I've noticed the Tach is indicating 2000 rpm, the smart craft is reading 580 rpm at idle. Obviously the Smartcraft is correct. So the other issue is as stated, I take off it spools up then backs down to 4000 rpm on the Tach, I'm thinking it is sencing an overspeed and shutting down the 3 cylinders. I didn't realize on the water that the Smartcraft and tach where way off. I was thinking a bad Alternator, so I replaced it, same thing on the hose for readings, 2000 on Tach, 580 on SC. I did not water test as I figured problem still exists. Any help would greatly be appreciated.

  2. #2
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    If your smart craft is working. Also seems to be the accurate reading between the 2 tach's. I would disconnect the grey wire that the signals the analog tach if that is what you are seeing 4000 rpm on. Not sure if you have just rigged motor to hull or not. If it is a new setup. Possibly the tack is set for a 3 cyl or 4 cyl motor. Tachs usually either have a slide switch to set cyl count or pins you move to set cyl count. If i am confused and you do not have smart craft rpm and analog. Crank sensor that reads the flywheel is what controls rpm signal.

  3. #3
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    Is the tach going back down or engine?

    engine would be cps possibility some run an old style system that runs tps then switches to cps when enough signal is generated. ( basically the same reason cruise control or abs didn’t work under 35 mph not enough signal) (wss is same set up as cps wires wrapped over a magnet.)

    just the tach some sorta signal loss

  4. #4
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    davemvegas, Yes I just swapped powerheads, took a blown 250 XS off and replaced it with a 225 Optimax. It did run well the 1st outing. The second time out is when this started. So the tach is set for a six. And both read correctly the 1st outing. Thanks for the input,

  5. #5
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    Motv18, The Engine is dropping down. I was reading up that it will drop 3 cylinders at a certain RPM, (5800 or so) then all 6 beyond that. So I'm leaning towards this. I'm not near 5800 rpm as I have to much prop, probably around 5400 max. But noticed the difference between the 2 tachs and figured this may be a clue. Not sure what CPS or WSS is, Thanks for the help!

  6. #6
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    CPS = crank position sensor. The only thing that would kill 3 cyls is the switch that is attached to the slide where the shift cable connects to powerhead. From neutral position, when you shift either into forward or reverse. The button switch gets activated and causes a quick kill of 3 cylinders to lesson the shock on the lower unit. I would not rule out a shorted tach. I have seen a few over the years. Symptom is usually erratic misfire that comes and goes. Easy to disconnect the analog tach to see if it is your problem. Rev limiters alternate cyls killed or pulsed to limit rpm. The reason ecm pulses random clys at rev limiter is because if ecm shut spark off on 3 cyls continuously there is a chance of flooding cyl and then backfire and/or reed damage occurs. Random cyl pulses controls rev limit without the bang.

  7. #7
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    davemvegas, wow, thanks for the great info! Now I'm leaning towards the switch on the the shift cable. When we 1st launched it the day it started acting up, it would not rev past about 1900 rpm, then it started working, was able to get it on plane then it would cut back to the 4000 rpm on the tach which i didn't know at the time, was wrong. The manual stated it would just drop the one bank of cyl. but what you are saying makes a lot more sense. Thanks again!

  8. #8
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    Those switches get gunked up with grease and stick. Only use a spray lube like silicone, or nothing.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  9. #9
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    XstreamVKing, will do, I have a spare I'll throw at it. Thanks!

  10. #10
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    Well, so far I found loose connection on back of the tach, tightened, now the tach is reading correct. I swapped out the shift switch, even though it rang ok, I didn't send a load threw it. Hopefully I will be able to try it out tomorrow, thanks again for all the help!

  11. #11
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    Got to run it this morning, all is well! Now to dial it in for a prop, Thanks again everyone!

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  13. #12
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    Good to hear

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