Plastic weld trigger arm?

**wakepics** · 06-21-2019, 02:11 PM

I'm an idiot. I've been slowly rebuilding my 92 xri which is kept 2 hours from where I live. Last time I was working on it, while connecting the trigger to the throttle arm, I got ratchet happy and snapped the threaded portion of the ball joint assembly. Frig. Ordered the new part, finally got it last week, was in a rush to get it put back on the boat so I could set the timing, and ended up snapping the trigger arm (plastic part off the side of the trigger). I have a spare trigger at home, but that's 2 hours away, and I won't be able to set the timing for a couple more weeks, not to mention then I'll be pulling off the flywheel again.

Anyways, to cut to the question, am I continuing in my stupidity to think I can just plastic weld the arm back on so I can get the damn thing started finally?

**Merc 2.5** · 06-21-2019, 03:06 PM

I've used jbweld cause I was n a rush pullin parts off a motor once. Then needed it down the line

**Jay Smith** · 06-21-2019, 03:06 PM

Don’t beat yourself up , as many motors as I build every once in a while I come across an older brittle one that just breaks , I always keep a spare just in case !!! If you do epoxy it and you have my luck it would break at the most un opportune moment , fix it right !!!

Jay

**rock** · 06-21-2019, 04:39 PM

If you epoxy it to get by try to find a spot you can drill a small hole completely thru it going thru the break. Then force the epoxy in and it will act as somewhat of dowel and may possibly get you by till you can do it correctly. Good luck.

Rock

**wakepics** · 06-30-2019, 08:42 PM

Well I finally installed the spare trigger back on the boat this afternoon. I indexed #1 with the dial indicator/TDC/0.150 method, then attempted to set max timing. When I crank the motor over, I can advance the trigger through it's full range, but it only shows between 25 ATDC and about 40 BTDC. Throughout most of the range the flywheel doesn't have any markings showing.

My battery is charged, plugs are out, wires grounded, yellow leads go to outer switchbox, black leads go to inner switchbox, verified coil wires are going to appropriate switch box locations. Trigger connection measures 11/16".

What am I missing here? I ohmed the trigger before install and it was within range. I'm thinking it must be something with the electrical system?

**Merc 2.5** · 06-30-2019, 08:45 PM

Rotate stator , if it's off a bolt hole wont b rite

**wakepics** · 06-30-2019, 10:13 PM

Merc - I thought of that, but I have the wires coming off the starboard side right behind the starter, which I'm pretty sure is the correct placement.

**tlwjkw** · 07-01-2019, 04:12 AM

as per "bigger hammer" below.. this will give ya staring place "mark" on tha flywheel of 25* advance.. back it down a touch with tha light ta be on tha safe side and go from there... set idle to whatever you and tha motor like with it in tha water in gear.. numbers don't mater with idle..

"Insert a dial indicator in # 1 plug hole ( V-6 is located Starbord side top )and rotate the crankshaft CLOCKWISE (with all plugs out) till you establish 0 mark the flywheel adjacent to a stationary pointer . After you've establish O turn the crankshaft COUNTER CLOCK WISE till the dial indicator reads .150" then mark the flywheel at the point where the pointer is dead nuts adjacent to the stationary pointer again that is 25 degrees. ( . 170" is 27 degrees ) Remove your dial indicator then reincert #1 plug and attach plug plug wire then ground all the rest of the plug wires ( I use a coil tester instead of grounding to the block ) attach your timing light on # 1 plug which is screwed in the block, rotate with the starter WITH THE TIMING ARM IN THE LOCKED WIDE OPEN POSITION AT TOTAL TIMING till the spark plug fires and indicates. If timing needs to be adjusted loosen the 7/16 jam nut in the top side of the timing arm and adjust philips headed screw till itswhere you want at WIDE OPEN TIMING( fully advanced ) repeat till it's dead nuts. Also make sure if you have an advancer type timing light it is on 0."

(28)

**wakepics** · 07-01-2019, 06:14 AM

Thanks for that, but I know the process to set the timing. My modules are all removed, I'm using a standard timing light. My TDC on #1 set to 0 on the flywheel, and .150 lands on 25BTDC. When checking the timing I can go through the whole range of travel with the timing arm and I don't land anywhere close to 23 BTDC. I'm not a couple of degrees off, its way off, so I'm thinking it must be something stupid that I'm missing?

**tlwjkw** · 07-01-2019, 06:24 AM

Originally Posted by wakepics

Throughout most of the range the flywheel doesn't have any markings showing.

sorry.. but with tha statement above thought you were without "any degree markings" on tha flywheel....

**wakepics** · 07-01-2019, 06:26 AM

All good! I didn't explain that very well, and I appreciate any input at this stage. This should be the easy part and I'm getting frustrated cause I just want to hear the damn thing run!

**rock** · 07-01-2019, 06:30 AM

Was the flywheel disassembled for any reason? Did you confirm good spline when you had flywheel off? For timing to be that far off it has to be either an indexing issue with the flywheel or a wiring issue.

Rock

**wakepics** · 07-01-2019, 06:38 AM

Flywheel is the standard 40 amp - before I took the motor apart I could set the timing fine, and haven't altered the flywheel in any way. Spline is good and made sure it went into it's correct "home" when seating it. Since everything lines up as it should when I indexed #1 I was thinking it would have to be wiring related.

The only wires I'm not sure are in their right homes are the yellow/red leads from stator to VRs, and the black/yellow wires to the switchboxes. From what I can tell it shouldnt really matter if those are not in a "precise" location, as long as the connections are made (if that makes sense).

All the wires from the stator and trigger to switch boxes are going to the correct posts, and yellow wrapped wires from both are attached to the outer SB, black wrapped wires go to the inner SB. I've verified that all green coil wires are attached where they should be as well.

What other wires could cause this?

**wakepics** · 07-01-2019, 10:52 AM

I swapped switch boxes and I'm still having the same issue. Kind of at a loss here

**Dave S** · 07-01-2019, 11:38 AM

Beatels song......Yellow sub something....If off many%%% swickh the wires.....TRG... STATOR BOXS.....gotta be in synk....just .....put the pup... wht... brn... on other box....