Drilled Exhaust - Real World Results and Weigh-In On Benefits

[Gordon02]

What many don't know is that White Oak is far superior to Red Oak in boat building applications. White Oak is the wood that ships have been built of for hundreds of years because it does not wick/absorb water.

This video from a shipwrite shows why - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6t2AZubF8U

I use it to replace the stringers and build pedestal supports in the flooring. The strength is amazing and it bonds extremely well to laminates using US Composite's 3:1 Epoxy. We're still able to buy it "rough sawed" locally which gives me more that 1" of board thickness and widths of 5" to 10" to choose from. The rough attribute gives the epoxy and 1708 bi-axial glass lots of teeth.

[rock]

People would often ask the difference and I would slice an 1/8 inch piece of end grain off each and hold them up to a light. White oak is solid whereas red oak loos like there is more air than wood. Red oak would be useless in a boat.

Rock

[Motv18]

The 60 should be drilled or exit the anodes. Mine bubbles there when the anodes are close to top

[Merc 2.5]

U can take a slice of white and red oak same size , get glass water , blow thru slice of wood into water , red oak will make bubbles, cant blow thru white ,

[carb a rator]

I pulled the bucket out of my 2.4, but didn't drill any holes. On the hose it has a bit more crackle, nothing like open exhaust. On the ramp, same thing a bit more crackle but not much. Hope to take i off the trailer next week. My plan is to drill holes through the cavitation plate in to the can a couple at a time till i get the desired level. Too many years of 260's on offshore downhousing make the stock setup just too quite for me.I figure 4 will probably do it, shall see.