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  1. #16
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    Famous craft are built with vinylester from what I remember seeing them at shows. Decent build quality.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
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  2. #17
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    I am a perfectionist but, looking over the boat and even up into the damaged area I can tell this was a well built boat. I think if I built boats I would go out of business as I would spend too much time even making the unseen perfect. hahaha

    Thank you for that info on the vinyl ester. It seems like i had read before that you can smell poly when cutting or grinding which would be a way of telling? I was planning on using epoxy or Vinyl ester for the repairs anyhow. I really think Vinyl ester just to be able to work at a faster pace than with epoxy. In the end I think I will paint the bottom with white epoxy paint rather than trying to match the gelcoat. I may get under the boat later today and cut some of the glass out and post some pictures. At the moment the biggest problem I have is how am I going to flip this huge boat. If it wasn't so wide I could hang it from some I beams in my shop but I will not have enough room as the beam is only 8ft above the floor. Anyhow, I will figure it out and update as i progress.
    1998 BackCountry 201 Proguide, 250xs

  3. #18
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    I think possibly part of why the failure was so great is because the stringer was not filled completely with foam. There was a lot of hull bottom that had no foam even touching it at all. I am glad to see the way this boat was built as I think I will be able to repair the damage without much issue at all. It does have a molded stringer grid system that was bonded to the hull. I am going to have a lot of hull to remove and rebuild but that isnt much of an issue. All the area is nice and straight without any complex angles or curves to deal with.

    I had removed the wet foam when I took the pictures.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190620_134620.jpg   20190620_134624.jpg  
    1998 BackCountry 201 Proguide, 250xs

  4. #19
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    Looks like a boat where the stringers were bonded to the hull with plexus. I think I see some on the lower rt side of the 2nd pic . Black goo..... Quite a variation in the laminate stack going from right to left also.
    Last edited by XstreamVking; 06-20-2019 at 01:27 PM.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  5. #20
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    I think I am going to change up to using epoxy for this repair. I am also going to open up the other side that is not damaged and replace all the wet foam. The fiberglass layup on this hull is very thin and anywhere it is not directly supported under the stringer/bulkhead system it is somewhat flexible. I think I may go ahead and use a 4lb foam to try to stiffen up the bottom a bit although using 2lb foam with it completely filling the stringer system may give ideal results. This foam i removed is like a sponge and somewhat soft and honestly do not see it doing any good at all. I thought of trying something to possibly help ensure that the undamaged hull is bonded to the stringers. I figured if there are any voids at all that maybe running some slow cure epoxy down the seams would allow run into those voids helping bond it all together. I understand that it is not the most idea method but maybe it would help a little and besides i have 7 gallons of epoxy on hand that needs to be used up. I do not see how it could hurt trying to get some epoxy to run under the stringers to fill any possible voids, do you know of any issues that may come from such an idea? Feel free to chime in on this or any of my proposed ideas on this repair job.
    Last edited by Mhall222; 06-20-2019 at 10:13 PM.
    1998 BackCountry 201 Proguide, 250xs

  6. #21
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    I finally got around to working on this project and I have decided to do the repairs from the top. I have so far removed the console, leaning post and in the process of removing the fuel tank. I am so glad I made the choice to go from the top as the fuel tank foam was totally saturated with water. One thing I was not expecting is that the fuel tank is made from stainless steel rather than aluminum and it very heavy. I am not sure why they went with stainless other than I guess maybe it is a bit more resistant to corrosion. I am going to lay out my cuts and start cutting the floor and deck off the rear half of the boat. The cap is really bonded well to the hull so I am going to just cut the cap and put it all back together later. The cap is all flat deck and is built with 3/4 coosa so it should be pretty straight forward getting it all glassed back in. I am also going to remove the gunnel rod lockers in favor for open gunnel rod holders. I hate how the rod lockers always stay wet and gives limited access to rods on the bottom. I have a butt load of work ahead of me but it will be well worth it on this boat. As soon as the floors/deck is removed I am going to cut holes in the stringer system, removed all the foam, make the needed repairs and add new tabbing from the stringers to the hull before adding new foam. I am thinking about coming up with something to attach to a drill to shred the foam in the stringers and then I can just vacuum it out. Maybe a very course wire brush or something on a long shaft would make quick work of the foam.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190804_193049.jpg   20190804_202927.jpg  
    1998 BackCountry 201 Proguide, 250xs

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  8. #22
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    I am at a point I need a little advice. I have come to the conclusion that this delamination problem was not related to the impact of the stump but I believe possibly a defect when they built the boat. Under the fuel tank i found a large area of delaminated fiberglass which I have cut out. It almost looks like the glass was never really bonded to the hull with only a few areas that looked as if it was bonded well. This delamination runs all the way back to the damaged areas so I will have a lot of cutting, grinding and glass work do to for sure. Just out of curiosity what would cause such delamination? Was an ill timed layup or maybe a dry layup or something?

    My question for the moment is about the gap that is between the delmainated stringer system and the boat hull. I figured the gap would have been caused by a little sag in the hull but when I used screws to pull it all up tight I could see that this deformed the bottom far more than I would consider normal. Being pulling the gap closed is not really going to work what should I use to fill the gap? Should mix up some thickened epoxy and fill the gap or should I mix in the chopped glass fiber or something? As far as preparing the surfaces of the parts that I am going to bond back together I found that using a carbide grit oscillating tool works fantastic for getting between the stringer and hull and seems to be doing a great job of sanding both surfaces. I want to be sure that both surfaces are well prepped for the repairs so I do not run into more issues in the future.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190808_125533.jpg   20190809_185252.jpg   20190809_185322.jpg   20190808_131033.jpg  
    1998 BackCountry 201 Proguide, 250xs

  9. #23
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    Does the glass on the upper layer have the print of the lower layer? If so it was in contact at one time and just seperated. It also could be a part that was installed as a separate unit that didn't get bonded? That uni glass on the lower hull is not even covered with any mat. That makes it kinda prone to the fibers separating when stressed. Also makes it impossible to grind without cutting the strands and ruining the strength.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  10. #24
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    Yes the sections of glass I removed had print in them so something caused it to delaminate. I do not see any kind of bonding adhesive so possibly they just used resin to bond it in the hull?

    As far as the grinding goes, does the surface need to be flat or just scuffed up really well?
    Last edited by Mhall222; 08-09-2019 at 09:23 PM.
    1998 BackCountry 201 Proguide, 250xs

  11. #25
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    You need to "map" out the hull. Tap around with a small hammer, plastic screwdriver handle or similar and find out where and how much of the hull is delaminated. Mark with a sharpie where it is loose. I will never figure out why some use so much of the uni glass without any mat. Without mat acting as a "gasket" uni will not stick well to another layup of uni. It's really intended as structural stiffness on stringers etc running fore and aft. As far as grinding, rough it up and remove any loose fibers. If you have over 30 percent delam on the hull it may be a total loss. You could repair and run with reduced power, but I would not trust it with big power and speeds over 45 mph. It's a shame since it is a decent looking boat. But I question the construction method on it.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  12. #26
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    Thanks for the info. I have tapped on this hull from front to back and the delamination is really only found from about mid hull back to the damaged area on both sides of the stringer of the port side of the boat.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Capture.JPG  
    1998 BackCountry 201 Proguide, 250xs

  13. #27
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    Something I hope I never have to do again...Removing the cap was not difficult but I sure didnt want to do it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190810_193342.jpg  
    1998 BackCountry 201 Proguide, 250xs

  14. #28
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    I spent a few hours this afternoon cutting deeper into this project and I think I have discovered the issue with the delamination. There seems to be no CSM between the layers of tabbing in the areas there is delamination. No where on the port side of the boat have I found CSM used between the layers but the starboard side does have CSM and all of that seems solid. That is crazy that such a simple detail that was missed has caused this boat to have such a problem. The good thing is I could almost pull the tabbing from the stringer and hull as it was flat out not attached other than a few small areas. That sure makes it easier than having to grind it all off. My plans are to go back with 1700 and epoxy for the tabbing. Would it be ok to just cut strips of 1700 cloth for tabbing or would it be easier to just order a roll of tape? I figured I would do at least two layers of tabbing even though the tabbing I removed was a single layer. Any advice would be great. I hope to get started with the glass work sometimes this week.

    Thanks
    Mike
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190811_151832.jpg  
    1998 BackCountry 201 Proguide, 250xs

  15. #29
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    Plugging along.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190811_193707.jpg  
    1998 BackCountry 201 Proguide, 250xs

  16. #30
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    I am curious, Would sand blasting produce a good surface the fiberglass layup with epoxy? I am not sure exactly how I am going to be able to scuff up the areas that need glass work as nothing is really flat and I do not want to grind the surface down too much. I thought maybe a good sand blasting would clean the areas well and also produce a nice rough texture to glass over. Would this thinking be correct? If this is not such a good idea what method would you suggest to get all the foam residue off the rough glass work as well as have it prepped well for the new glass?
    1998 BackCountry 201 Proguide, 250xs

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