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  1. #31
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    This gets pretty far into the corners. It's what I've been using in the tight spots on my build. You'd also be surprised how much you can get with a 6" DA. 24 and 36 grit paper.

    https://www.amazon.com/Central-Pneum...%2C155&sr=8-11

  2. #32
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    The biggest reason for the blasting would be to really clean the glass well and remove all the foam residue and what not as well as give a rough texture. I was quoted about half an hour to do the blasting and at $75 that would sure save me a ton of time. I may have to still do some sanding but the bulk of it would be clean and rough I would think.

    I sure wonder if this boat was built on a Friday at 4:59PM as I am finding some very sketchy glass work and I am not even a glass man. All the tabbing on the main stringer is just one single layer of what looks to be 1708 and yes there is some delamination but now I am finding the tabbing is just broken down the whole length of the stringer (outer side) Everything on the port side of the boat is stuck well with no delamination but a good bit of the tabbing is broke and it looks to have been broke for a long time. I am going to remove all the loose glass and put new tabbing on the whole stringer system. I am so glad I made the choice to cut the cap off as I would have never known about all this if I tried to do the repairs from the bottom side only. There is still a butt pile of work ahead but I am confident this boat can be made rock solid again. If I have to end up sanding everything with a DA then I will just get to sanding but I am sure hoping a quick blasting job will speed up the process and even possibly result in better adherence of the epoxy to everything.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190813_160836.jpg  
    1998 BackCountry 201 Proguide, 250xs

  3. Likes tnelsmn liked this post
  4. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by tnelsmn;
    [URL
    https://www.amazon.com/Central-Pneumatic-Professional-Orbital-Sander/dp/B006ZBBB24/ref=sr_1_11?crid=1YROY90R6AUV6&keywords=2+da+sander&qid=1565729469&s=gateway&sprefix=2%22+da+%2Caps% 2C155&sr=8-11[/URL]
    I think I have one of these already so I may give it a test just to see how well it works. We have rain showing up tomorrow and sticking around for the rest of the week and the blaster is not going to be blasting anymore this week. I tend to be impatient. hahaha
    1998 BackCountry 201 Proguide, 250xs

  5. #34
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    The blaster asked me to have the boat to them first thing this morning and they would get the blasting work done. It took them maybe 20 minutes total to do the blasting and I tell you this was the way to go. There were a few missed spots but overall this saved me a full day of sanding/grinding if not more. What I really like is that the entire surface is clean and textured very well so there should be no issue at all with the epoxy bond on these repairs. I am going to get the boat jigged up to take some load off the hull under the stringer system and verify everything is straight then get to glassing in all new tabbing on the stringer system. I still have a little trimming and sanding of the old tabbing but that will not take that long. I am going going to not only add tabbing but also another layer on the hull just because I am in there and why not....I do have a question, how many layers should I use on the tabbing? I am thinking 3 layers including the layer that covers the hull then two more of just tabbing. I assume with the epoxy I need to get all 3 layers down at the same time or either use peal-ply or plan on sanding in between the layers. I hope to get started on this work in the next day or so and any advice would be great.

    Here is a picture of some of the blasting. Yes look how thin that tabbing was, it was a single layer of something maybe even thinner than 1708. I can not believe a boat that cost what this boat cost was build this way. Maybe that is why Famous Craft is out of business. I did talk to someone that stated that they had lamination problems but that was earlier production boats and this one is a 2009 so It shouldn't have had those issues. Anyhow, I hope the repairs last for the life of the boat.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190815_093624.jpg   20190815_094306.jpg   20190815_094300.jpg  
    1998 BackCountry 201 Proguide, 250xs

  6. #35
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    I jacked the front of the boat up to put most of the load on the bottom edge of the transom and on the keel towards the front of the hull. I wanted to be sure the hull was not being pushed in by the trailer bunks. The left side of the hull had the most delamination and issues with the stringer with almost nothing attached at all. I drilled holes and used threaded rod to pull the hull back up to the correct position. This method allowed me to find tune and be sure one area was not pulled up more than another. The Gelcoat being so shiny sure shows when something is a little out of whack. I am going to verify everything is perfect before I start glassing in new tabbing but when sighting down the hull bottom it looks pretty dang good to me. It sure is a shame this boat needs all this work, the bottom gelcoat is gorgeous. After all the repairs I am going to just paint the bottom white or if possible I may paint the entire hull with the same color that the gelcoat is if I can find something that matches close. I am kind of liking the color the boat is after seeing it in my yard for the past few months.

    When glassing in new tabbing should I try to create a fillet around the stingers with something? I thought about making a very thick epoxy paste with some fiber and cabosil
    but some of the gaps are pretty large for such an approach I think. I was going to just let the cloth flow down to the hull bottom naturally but a nice fillet to glass against would sure be nice. Any advice on what to do?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20190815_192649.jpg   20190815_192101.jpg  
    Last edited by Mhall222; 08-15-2019 at 07:32 PM.
    1998 BackCountry 201 Proguide, 250xs

  7. #36
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    OK, I have everything where I want it but I am hesitant to start laying new tabbing down. Someone needs to give me a run down on how they would go about putting new tabbing down so I will have enough confidence to start the process. How many layers with 1700 biaxial and epoxy? Should I put all the layers down at once or do just a few at a time? Any issues with going over the hull bottom with another layer of glass while doing the tabbing? I have been ready to start the glass work for over a week but I just have not been totally confident in how I want to go about with the layup.
    1998 BackCountry 201 Proguide, 250xs

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