Q16

[MUDSHARK]

Looking to see what others have experienced with Q16 fuel in a high compression Merc EFI?

[mach351]

Works ok with the proper tune. Need to flush it out.

[patchesII]

Good stuff. Like Randy said, probably needs a little tune for it. Turn the ecu up 3 numbers if you want to try it

[Motv18]

If you have the e10 tune you might not have to retune if not it will burn lean and need turned up. It’s also one of the faster burning high octane rating fuels; so you’ll have to play with timing like some of the Sunoco stuff made for the big block dragsters. To get the best run. Shouldn’t need to mess with the float though. It is .72 humm doubt the vst would have issues would definitely check floats on carbs though.

It can have have issues with rubber but most engines it’s made for don’t last that long.

[patchesII]

If you have the e10 tune you might not have to retune if not it will burn lean and need turned up. It’s also one of the faster burning high octane rating fuels; so you’ll have to play with timing like some of the Sunoco stuff made for the big block dragsters. To get the best run. Shouldn’t need to mess with the float though. It is .72 humm doubt the vst would have issues would definitely check floats on carbs though.

It can have have issues with rubber but most engines it’s made for don’t last that long.

Have you ran it in an outboard?

[Chaz]

Have you ran it in an outboard?

You already know the answer ... LOL

I've run C-16 or C-23 in a lot of cars during the winter .. err .. cooler months here in the swamp when the D.A. between -300' and +1500' and swapped over to Q-16 in the dog days of summer when the air was +3500' .
It doesn't bring enough chemical air to make up 2000' - 3000' of mother nature . Smells like rotten tatters , but it's worth a few hundreths to a nickel and two mile an hr .. at best .

[Motv18]

In a carb yep up 2 jets and iirc 21* on that set up around 8500rpm. It has some stuff that knocks at 390*f but main component is 450*f

The float is more of a race thing lighter faster burning compounds in the race fuels have a different density then pump gas and can alter how it works.

Sunoco has a whole short write up on burnrate of race fuel and jetting oxidized fuels and timing. Vp is a little more tight lipped even in the sds they provide and data sheets with temps for auto ignition and stuff

[MUDSHARK]

I want to try it on a 300 drag with close to 300psi Comp. Didn’t know if I need to swap to an adjustable fuel pressure reg or just make adjustments on the ECU.

[Motv18]

That’s way more compression then we ran, dont think we had to do anything with fuel pressure.

[Michael J Giesler]

It makes alot of power with the right compression and fuel curve but flush out your motor immediately after running it because it is very caustic and corrosive and don't breath it because it is guaranteed cancer in a can plus disconnect your vacuum tube from your ECU immediately after running because if there's any left over residuals it will destroy the map sensor

[MUDSHARK]

thanks for the advise brother!

Clay Booth

[Motv18]

Are you sure it’s close to 300psi, that’s awful close to the theoretical max to maintain fuel as vapor. Theory is always off by a bit. Average gas is 1:160 liquid vapor. On a 12gph setup to run 10.9:1 air:fuel takes around 28cc at 8000rpm.

Thats a pure vapor model if i did the math right, theirs always some liquid present so you can go tighter.

Just curious ad I never ran any that high

edit looking back over this I don’t think it was the hole formula. I think it’s only the one atmosphere model and doesn’t include higher pressure or vapor to liquid pressure. ( think like a ac compressor where r134 is squeezed back to liquid.

[patchesII]

You can try 300 psi but I don’t think it’s what you need. I’d keep it between 230 and 270. 250 seems to be a happy medium. No need for an adjustable regulator unless you just want one. Go up on the ecu 3-4 numbers. If it bogs a little at the hit it needs more fuel down low