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  1. #1
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    Oil Gear Removal and Epoxy Fill Need Help With Finding Old Thread

    I know I'm asking for a lot, but I've looked for an old thread posted about a year ago that had images of the oil pump shaft removed and filled with JB Weld or similar epoxy. I purchased the block-off kit, but have decided that I want to address the compression loss the void will cause.

    Here is another question - is there a general rule for the increase in main jet sizes and the idle air jets to work with the new, thicker fuel/oil mixture that the premix brings about? I'm finally getting back on my 2.0L fatblock project. Thanks, Gordon


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  2. #2
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    Is the block split? Or r u just tryin fill the cavity in front half?

  3. #3
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    It's fully split. I'm doing a complete rebuild. Rods being balanced, pistons top-pinned, balanced, new bearings at both ends of the rods, all new crank bearings at the top and bottom, and some smoothing work on the ports in the exhaust chest.

  4. #4
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    Well I thought I had a pic ov my block filled , Perry used marine tex. sry I thought I had a pic for you but I didnt think to take a pic

  5. #5
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    Here’s some pics of one I’ve done. I leave the gear in place on crank. You can remove the gear, but you will need to add more epoxy in block and half to bring it close to crank to take up the void.

  6. #6
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    I also drive the bushing out of the floor of the cylinder and fill the hole left behind with epoxy. This is important, because there is nothing there to keep the bushing from falling out with everything filled in.

  7. #7
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    I run a small bearing 260 crank or an early 2.0 non-oiler crank when I do this.

    I usually use a block off kit and cut it short and fill the back side with marine tex. Mine ends up looking like it has a delete kit installed.

    James Perry fills the whole front half and grinds the block down so his looks like a non-oiler.

    Many different ways to skin this cat!

  8. #8
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ID:	441159Here’s a pic with the crank installed to make more sense of it. If you remove the gear on an Oiler crank you would have to make the complete diameter of the block and crank smaller to match up to crank. Or you can use a non oiler like nitro said and do the block the same way as I have In pic. and it’ll match without having to add any more epoxy.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by FORBESAUTO View Post
    I also drive the bushing out of the floor of the cylinder and fill the hole left behind with epoxy. This is important, because there is nothing there to keep the bushing from falling out with everything filled in.
    Lol, the bushing canít fall out with epoxy there, I was just babbling and not thinking. Anywho, I do remove the bushing and let epoxy full hole, then finish it out nice, smooth and flat in floor on cylinder side to match all others

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by FORBESAUTO View Post
    Lol, the bushing can’t fall out with epoxy there, I was just babbling and not thinking. Anywho, I do remove the bushing and let epoxy full hole, then finish it out nice, smooth and flat in floor on cylinder side to match all others
    I guess I'm just lazy, I leave the bushing in there. How do you get such a nice form to your epoxy? Mine looks like a kindergartner globbed play dough in there. It kinda sags then I grind the high spots down. Less than ideal but they run ok!

  11. #11
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    A lot of experimenting and jacking things up. Found that I have best results and less work using splash zone. A lot also has to do with the way you mix it and work it. Iíve found for strength purposes and ease of working, itís best to mix the two parts with as little water as you can and still be able to mix it.( the water causes little voids when dries that look like air bubble pockets in the epoxy and makes it weaker). I start with a thin layer and nead it back a forth with dry hands on a roughed up surface until it gets a good hold. Then I start building it up packiní it to make sure no air pockets until I have built up a tad larger than I need. Then I wet my hands and work it and shape it to the shape I want ( kinda like doing pottery) Then while itís setting I check on it every few minutes and if itís sagging at all I give it a little lift with wet hands. The next day I work it and grind it to my liking.(Usually very little grinding needed if I took my time and made sure it was right before it totally set). Once you get the hang of working the stuff, you could make a bowl out of it lol. I use it for all kind of things, I made my torque tab out of it and shaped it like I wanted it and smoothed it smooth as a babies butt with my wet hands and hardly no grinding needed. And itís held up unbelievably well.

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  13. #12
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    Kinda like Forbes has done. When Perry did my (void) , besides the color it looks like part of the block. I'm guess just lots of practice! My hats off these guys for sure

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