Engine Stand

[bobby minis]

Would someone please post a pic of a practical (and easy to build) engine stand. Thans

[Brad Zastrow]

I have used a Harbor Freight auto engine stand. They are only $40 or $50. Even have wheels. Lower unit needs to be off. They held my three liter engines fine. Since I have three engines and I rarely need to use an engine stand they work out fine for me.

[David - WI]

Somebody on here posted plans for a stand they designed & built; but I can't find the post now.

[mrichartz]

https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...in-O-B-s/page2

Not surev what page..
Can make them out of wood easy w some 4x4 2x and bolts.. should be able to Google images

[Whaaaaat]

I have used a Harbor Freight auto engine stand. They are only $40 or $50. Even have wheels. Lower unit needs to be off. They held my three liter engines fine. Since I have three engines and I rarely need to use an engine stand they work out fine for me.

This or just add some plywood to lift motor high enough to leave lower unit on.

[Hippie459MN]

I built these ones YEARS ago. I actually have 3 of them. Just made from angle iron and they are tough. Had a carb to pan big block chev on one with a 6-71 blower on it and didnt budge an inch. I prob got like 50-60 in each one but that was over 20 years ago I built them. And they will fit any outboard great without having to remove the lower as long as its a 20" or shorter. And they wheel around amazing!

[mrichartz]

https://images.app.goo.gl/Fz6jjRXzcgeF9tz39

[delawarerick]

Built one just like the one mrichartz picture put big wheel caster hold 325 lb engine and can hold more. Wood bolts and screw around $30 bucks getting ready to build another. Google homemade outboard motor stand

[keefallan]

I have built 5 or 6 stands now. The cheapest and fastest is to use 2by lumber. You need a 2 x 6 x 8 for the uprights and a few 2 x 4's plus some 3/4 ply wood for the base. A set of casters from harbor freight(3 or 4 inch) for 25 bucks shipped plus some 3" drywall screws. The stand is 24 inches wide. I don't remember the height of the uprights. But you can make them whatever youlike to fit the size of the motor you have. You need to cut the bottom of the uprights at a 12-15 degree angle to center the motor over the base. I believe the base is 24 square. Once you have the upright height, you need to notch the top of the upright for (2) 2 x 6's tall(meaning you need a transom mount the width of at least (2) 2 x 6's wide. I just swapped out my most recent one for a 14" leftover LVL. But its not necessary. The 12inches of imitation transom work fine. Once that is screwed down, you take a 2 x 4 on each side to support the upright from behind. The angles are unknown at this point. A bevel works best to find the angle you need. This will secure to the base and the back(inline with it) of the upright.

I forgot to mention the base build. screw 2 x 4's together in such a fashion that you have a 24 x 24 base and the walls are double thick(2- 2 x 4"s screwed together) and one 2 x 4 to cross the middle like a joist. Then cut 2 pieces of 3/4 plywood to for the top. The reason I use double walled 2x4's for the base is so that the casters have plenty of meat to screw into and support everything.

Glue and screw(waterproof wood glue or polyurethane) everything. Waterproof glue for when you start it on the stand.............and you know you will...LOL! You need (16) 1/4 lag screws for the casters 1-1/4 inches long.


I will do my best to get a pic tomorrow of this setup for you to see what I am saying. It rolls like butter and doesn't tip. I just have to be slow going over door thresholds etc. Never had one fall yet. I built this last one for the 175 I am building. The casters should be the most expensive part of the entire build and you get the satisfaction of doing it yourself!

I do like the one Michael built. That one is quite sturdy. Mine are just a little more compact. That is why I designed them this way. To keep them out of the way. My space was at a premium at the time, and I never changed the design for when I wanted another one. Mine will hold any 6 cylinder all day long. I have never hung a v8 or large 4stroke on it.

[keefallan]

This or just add some plywood to lift motor high enough to leave lower unit on.

I can picture that too. Nice lowbuck stand........I'd do the plywood thing to it.

[Whaaaaat]

I can picture that too. Nice lowbuck stand........I'd do the plywood thing to it.

Borrowed this idea from a picture on the internet, may even have been this site.

[rochelle howell]

This or just add some plywood to lift motor high enough to leave lower unit on.

Or just trim it up a little. If you go harbor freight route, get the 1000 lb. Model. 2 wheels in front.
WELL worth the 10 extra bucks or so.
Word to the wise, harbor freight engine hoist, 1000 lb. rated.....harbor freight engine stand, 1000 lb. rated, engine trimmed up a little, requires considerable shenanigans to safely lower engine mounted on stand to the ground.
Used two buddies to keep motor and stand from tipping over sideways while I tipped engine hoist forward onto the two front wheels to allow motor and stand to navigate over the end of engine hoist legs.
Thought it was gonna be a breeze, not so. I miss my heavy duty engine hoist that doesn't taper towards the hydraulic cylinder.
Not pretty, not fun, what the hell, got it done!!!

[noli]

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"...everything is in YouTube"









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[keefallan]

That thing can hold a tank! I doubt it would have no problem holding any size outboard. But the one potential problem is the space that it takes up. That has a big footprint. If you've got the space, build it. Space is too precious a commodity for me. That's why I build the style stand that I do. If I have a motor just sitting for a long time, taking up space, it needs to be as small as possible. I would be able to fit 2 motors in that same footprint.

[tux974]

Here a few I built with some 4X4 fence post and scrap lumber I had laying around.