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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glastron1987 View Post
    Anyone use loctite on any of the screws during a carb rebuild?
    No they have to come apart to much imo

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merc 2.5 View Post
    Not really , just take ur time and make sure float set rite on EA one
    Excellent tip because each one did need adjustment with the rebuild kit, thanks again.

  4. #18
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    The carb rebuild kit contains 2 "different" size idle screws. One is supposed to be a little skinnier on the end than the other based in a provided diagram. It says use the correct one for you application. Even with a magnifying glass it is hard to tell them apart. I tried using a micrometer and there seems to be about a .003 inch difference between the two sizes, but since it’s an angled surface it’s is a little hard to get a good measurement. Any tips on picking the right ones?

    Other than that I am pretty happy on how simple these carbs are and their quality.

  5. #19
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    I'm not real familiar with wmh so unfortunately I dont have a answer for idle screw. Sry. Maybe sumone else does tho

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  7. #20
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    Looking for new fuel line for pretty much the whole fuel system, along with a pump rebuild and new filter. Looks like I'll need some 3/8", 5/16" and even some smaller for the enricher. For the 5/16" and 3/8" is it OK to use that gray stuff instead of the OEM part that cost a lot more? The gray stuff seems like good quality for a decent price.

  8. #21
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    Wheres Chaz at on this. Haha. Take ur lines to napa , get everything u need. Chaz has part #s hahaform fuel to bleed enricher

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  10. #22
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    Found the answer to one of my concerns. The gray hoses are rated B1, which will not be fire resistent. What I need is something with an A1 rating, which would be.

  11. #23
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    U just need ethanol resistance for fuel line , but napa also has the bleed lines. Fire resistant cool but prolly not needed

  12. #24
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    How about using a drill index to determine idle screw size? Set the screw in a small hole and mark how far it goes in, repeat with other screw and compare how deep they go in the same hole.

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  14. #25
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    Sorry late to the post .On my 225 EFI ,the service manual call for a tad of red locite on the reed block and torque to spec.....(inch) per foot lbs.

    the bleed line is Napa h-174 it looks the same as the Mercury line , but at a better price .
    Chaz gave me that number .

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  16. #26
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    Boy that tip about going to Napa was a good one. Seems they have every size necessary... for a good price... by the foot. Thanks for that guys.

  17. #27
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    Does someone have a diagram/photo or description for how to hook up the Thermal Air Valve (part #814612)? My shop manual is not too clear on this nor are the online images.

    Also, why does it cost so much? I see its over $200???

  18. #28
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    This is a WMV carb, one fitting on valve is left open, other is attached to the bowl vent fittings on carbs(hooks to the bottom “t” then short hoses hook between the carbs). The valve is closed cold, restricting air to the idle circuit causing it to run richer and opens to atmospheric pressure when warmed for normal fuel mixture.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 3B0C105D-43EF-4E77-83BB-D3E8A9BC7803.jpg  
    Last edited by FORBESAUTO; 07-01-2019 at 05:32 AM.

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  20. #29
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    don't know what manual ya have?.. send me an email addy and i'll send ya a "good one" in pdf...

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  22. #30
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    Carbs and fuel pump rebuilt, and fuel system hoses pretty much all set.

    Now looking at re-hooking up the bleed lines. From the diagram it looks like transfer ports connect to the crankcase valves as follows:
    2 to 6
    4 to 1
    6 to 3
    1 to 4
    3 to 5
    5 to 2

    This all makes sense to me as they are all 3 cylinders away from each other except for 2 to 6 and 3 to 5 which seem to be switched. Is there a reason for this or am I looking at the diagram wrong?

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