1989 Evinrude 200 not reaching W.O.T. after 20" conversion

[racer]

That engine does not have an optical eye so no windows.

Do like I mentioned above to find if you have one cyl not running proper.

[jaymalyon]

I honestly can't remember if I bundled these wires and zip tied them behind a coil, but that's what I found this morning.
I think it's worth while to hook them up correctly and see what happens.

[racer]

Those are the shift switch wires. if the top was then connected correctly that would not be the issue.

[FMP]

Bench test the regulator?

[Motv18]

If you’re thinking shift switch it could be the synch causing it to bounce at certain rpm. I would expect more surge feel then described.

You can hook a induction tach to starboard side ( it switches on one year port to starboard or other way)

one of the standard test on omc is to induction tach each cylinder. And go after the slow one coils and other components.

[FMP]

So what happened?

[Dave S]

when ya done.... I have rakers.....

[FMP]

Could be finished honing by now

[HaulNbass]

Did you get your engine straightened out Jaymalyon? I’m getting around now after dislocating my knee, im off church rd if you need a little help, am hobbling around pretty good lol!

[jaymalyon]

Sorry for the delayed response....

Haven't ran the boat since April and got frustrated and paused the project to start working on another boat. I ended up taking the Evinrude to a local shop la so t month and so far the diagnosis has narrowed it down to one carb not getting enough fuel, possibly a needle seat has backed out. Hopefully I will know something by next week.

[jaymalyon]

Picked the boat up a few weeks ago and had the chance to run it last weekend. Still no good. The guy I had working on it could not figure it out either. He went back through the carbs and sorted out everything there, and said all of the ignition system is in order.

His main concern was the idle timing, and said he was not able to set it correctly with the end of my spark advance linkage broken. I have been looking around and these parts seem to be hard to come by these days. It has always been broken since I have owned the motor, and never affected it running wide open in the past. Maybe since I have replaced so many parts, the spark advance has gotten out of whack?





Also, I was running the boat and checking the fuel pressure. At 3300 rpm, which is as fast as it will go, the pressure fluctuated from 5-6 to 0 and the back up. Is that normal?
Here's a video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMaM...ature=youtu.be

[Motv18]

Not 0 that’s not normal. Should it ever stay 0 power will drop constantly

And here err I was gonna pop in and mention drive shaft length or lower binding.

But 0 psi fuel will definitely cause power issues as would the borked advance.

[jaymalyon]

Not 0 that’s not normal. Should it ever stay 0 power will drop constantly

And here err I was gonna pop in and mention drive shaft length or lower binding.

But 0 psi fuel will definitely cause power issues as would the borked advance.

I'm going to try and run it on an auxiliary tank to eliminate any fuel pick up or vent issues. The tank is new as of 2012 but has had ethanol fuel ran through it.

All fuel lines north of the water separator are new.

Would it hurt to temporarily delete the OEM fuel pump and install an aftermarket inline unit? I'm wondering if the fluctuating fuel pressure is a symptom of a failing pump.

[Nitro25]

What I believe you are seeing on your PSI gauge is you VRO cycling. When the air motor in the VRO is tripped and resets there will be momentary loss of psi. If you hold your hand on the VRO and observe the psi gauge, you will feel it click (Cycle) every time the psi drops to almost 0. Have you tried pumping the primer bulb at what ever RPM to problem presents itself?

1400 RPM loss is huge, like a dead hole huge. You've changed flywheel, stator, and timer base, all of which can change timing; and not to mention the broken link arm. (Check timer base for full travel?)

I would get back to the basics. Degree your flywheel for all cylinders @ TDC, take your time and be precise. Then translate full advance timing marks to all the other cylinders. (Use a small machinists steel rule if you have one) Then water test engine and set WOT timing for #1 cyl. Then switch timing light to all the other cylinders and see if you find problems there such as double firing or WOT timing out of range. This can uncover ignition problems. You could have a faulty pack, (Double firing, scatter firing) Mis-machined flywheel, sheered flywheel key, etc.)

At WOT, if you trim your engine "Up" do you immediately lose RPM?

You can also use the timing light to "Freeze Frame" fuel discharge out of the main discharge tube in the carbs. Remove air box cover, and at WOT aim the timing light down the carb throats and observe the discharge mass/volume, a real lean carb will stand out like a cherry on a cream pie.

Do a hot shut down and read your plugs, pay special attention to #'s 5&6, look for signs of water. Milky? Salt crystals?, electrodes washed clean?

Did you change your exhaust adapter plate during the refit?

Hope this helps.

[jaymalyon]

What I believe you are seeing on your PSI gauge is you VRO cycling. When the air motor in the VRO is tripped and resets there will be momentary loss of psi. If you hold your hand on the VRO and observe the psi gauge, you will feel it click (Cycle) every time the psi drops to almost 0. Have you tried pumping the primer bulb at what ever RPM to problem presents itself?
Yes, and it did not make a difference. Yesterday I replaced the primer bulb and for whatever reason, when I ran the motor stone cold the RPMs temporarily increased to 4000 rpm for about 5 minutes and then dropped back down to 3300 where it has been stuck. Never got back up there for the rest of the morning.

1400 RPM loss is huge, like a dead hole huge. You've changed flywheel, stator, and timer base, all of which can change timing; and not to mention the broken link arm. (Check timer base for full travel?)
I have checked, but will check again.

I would get back to the basics. Degree your flywheel for all cylinders @ TDC, take your time and be precise. Then translate full advance timing marks to all the other cylinders. (Use a small machinists steel rule if you have one) Then water test engine and set WOT timing for #1 cyl. Then switch timing light to all the other cylinders and see if you find problems there such as double firing or WOT timing out of range. This can uncover ignition problems. You could have a faulty pack, (Double firing, scatter firing) Mis-machined flywheel, sheered flywheel key, etc.)
Sounds like I have plenty of homework to keep me busy. Sheered fly wheel key is an interesting theory. Could have happened when the magnets let go last summer and whacked the stator??

At WOT, if you trim your engine "Up" do you immediately lose RPM?
I will check.

You can also use the timing light to "Freeze Frame" fuel discharge out of the main discharge tube in the carbs. Remove air box cover, and at WOT aim the timing light down the carb throats and observe the discharge mass/volume, a real lean carb will stand out like a cherry on a cream pie.
I will check.

Do a hot shut down and read your plugs, pay special attention to #'s 5&6, look for signs of water. Milky? Salt crystals?, electrodes washed clean?
I will check.

Did you change your exhaust adapter plate during the refit?
Yes, the exhaust adapter plate was already mounted to the mid sesction I bought. I pulled the powerhead and replaced the gasket.

Hope this helps.
It does! Thanks for your input.