1989 Evinrude 200 not reaching W.O.T. after 20" conversion

[jaymalyon]

So looks like cleaning the spark advance tube didn't make the difference. The plug wires have been changed once in the 10 years I have owned the motor. I'm going to replace them all for good measure. I'll test them for continuity as well
Would a bad wire cause this much lack in performance? I guess if I'm only running on a couple cylinders under load or something?

As far as the timing goes, if the motor can only get to 3900rpms and is reading 20 degrees, I didn't think I should make any adjustments because the manual says run it 4500-5000 and check. So, with out being able to put a full load on it, can I even accurately check the timing?

[FMP]

A bad plug wire can drive you crazy, check them.
You could see a difference on the plug burn. Also a cracked plug can drive you just as mad.

[racer]

Back the engine down in the water start and warm up see what full rpm is. Shut off remove number 1 plug wire start and run again to see full rpm, shut off and replace plug wire and continue until you have done this on all 6. If one cylinder does not change your rpm that is the one causing the issue.

[jaymalyon]

Come to find out, you can't check continuity on plug wires. Learning something new every day working on this damn thing. Checked the resistance on all my plug wires and they were all between 3000 and 4200 ohms. Not sure where I even got these from, or if they are correct for my application. Ordered 6 new ones from CDI.

[FMP]

I did ask if they are solid core, then check continuity. I think they were originally, maybe not? As in non resistor boots and wire, as copper core.
If I say spiral or stranded then most think of resistance wire.

http://www.marineengine.com/newparts...num=OMC0582365

Those look like non resistor boot to boot, OEM original. Make sure you check continuity after building them.

Or maybe these
http://www.cdielectronics.com/produc...2365-931-2365/

[mrichartz]

Yes Cheaper to buy and make them and end up with better wires..and takes 1/2 hour.
Cost just over $60 for enough for 2 sets and a little extra for couple spares
When done and tested mine are 280

[FMP]

RF interference suppression, no other advantage over OMC.

[Motv18]

Speaking of suppressing

if the scr is degraded you can expect to not go over 4900rpm

one of thoes good greef moments since many never run into a blown scr.

I forget how to test it it but it basically means new power packs.

The cdi troubleshooting ting guide is available online to test it.

Edit: might not have the scr if not and one installed it would be the wrong part.

[jaymalyon]

Speaking of suppressing

if the scr is degraded you can expect to not go over 4900rpm

one of thoes good greef moments since many never run into a blown scr.

I forget how to test it it but it basically means new power packs.

The cdi troubleshooting ting guide is available online to test it.

Edit: might not have the scr if not and one installed it would be the wrong part.

What is an SCR?

The power pack has been replaced

[Motv18]

It’s a part in the powerpacks, along with the shield between the coils and packs. It controls frenqiency or rfi interference. When it’s shielding breaks down cross fires, misses random, and occasionally can burn out the trigger. A failing scr can limit rpm. Missing shield can as well.

It stands for a signal compression thing. There’s a wire you can pull but I forget which. Think it’s to the trigger. They affect each other one can burn out the other

I also remembered the diode on the (yellow wire?) can produce similar effects by letting voltage back flow. Think it’s a 3a 150v

this is kinda grasping at straws.

[powerabout]

is the shift interrupt loom still connected
It has the interpack blocking diodes in it

[jaymalyon]

It’s a part in the powerpacks, along with the shield between the coils and packs. It controls frenqiency or rfi interference. When it’s shielding breaks down cross fires, misses random, and occasionally can burn out the trigger. A failing scr can limit rpm. Missing shield can as well.

It stands for a signal compression thing. There’s a wire you can pull but I forget which. Think it’s to the trigger. They affect each other one can burn out the other

I also remembered the diode on the (yellow wire?) can produce similar effects by letting voltage back flow. Think it’s a 3a 150v

this is kinda grasping at straws.

I appreciate all the input I can get. I will look further into to this.

[jaymalyon]

is the shift interrupt loom still connected
It has the interpack blocking diodes in it

I don't believe so but I will check.

Latest update is I replaced all the plug wires, also throttle and shift cables for good measure. I have not been able to get on the water to test.

[powerabout]

I don't believe so but I will check.

Latest update is I replaced all the plug wires, also throttle and shift cables for good measure. I have not been able to get on the water to test.

Check the wire from down where the shift cable connects and see where it goes.
The shift switch does need to operate but the loom must be plugged in, thats why people remove it not knowing it has another function.

[Motv18]

Other then that what’s left is checking to see if the optical is one that needs the shim and the correct number of windows on it.

That at would be about all the straws grasped