1989 Evinrude 200 not reaching W.O.T. after 20" conversion

**Nitro25** · 10-07-2019, 11:36 AM

OK! ... Cold engine run @ 4000 (Which is still awfull) but then after five minutes it drops to 3300?! You have to consider a thermal related problem, which is 99.9% chance of an electrical related component failure. Something is changing as the engine reaches operating temp. A pack or stator going south as they get hot. (Cold solder joint changing resistance etc.) I'm leaning away from a fuel related problem just for now.

Ok, more basics. Do you have a breakout box where you can read charge coil voltage while under way with a peak reading volt meter?

I haven't read all nine pages of posts, so please forgive me if I repeat a sugestion someone else has already made.

**jaymalyon** · 10-07-2019, 11:46 AM

Originally Posted by Nitro25

OK! ... Cold engine run @ 4000 (Which is still awfull) but then after five minutes it drops to 3300?! You have to consider a thermal related problem, which is 99.9% chance of an electrical related component failure. Something is changing as the engine reaches operating temp. A pack or stator going south as they get hot. (Cold solder joint changing resistance etc.) I'm leaning away from a fuel related problem just for now.

Ok, more basics. Do you have a breakout box where you can read charge coil voltage while under way with a peak reading volt meter?

I haven't read all nine pages of posts, so please forgive me if I repeat a sugestion someone else has already made.

I have a DVA adapater for my multimeter. That will give me the same reading right?

**Nitro25** · 10-07-2019, 11:54 AM

Yep...should be fine. Test output cold with plugs out for max cranking rpm. Run engine until rpm drop occurs. then back to the doct and repeat test, and see if you've got a drop in voltage. Don't let the engine cool off before testing.

What is the rpm drop like , fast, or like a slow bog?

**jaymalyon** · 10-07-2019, 12:08 PM

Slow. Like you were backing off the throttle.

FYI, somewhere in the last 10 pages I discussed a fluke where the motor did run ONCE between 5200-5400 after the conversion. Full power and hauled ass. This was the first pull after I rebuilt the carbs and then right back to where we are now.

**Nitro25** · 10-07-2019, 12:15 PM

Going back to that broken timer base advance adjustment linkage ... When the throttls is in WOT position (Engine not running) can you go back and move the timer base back and forth?

**jaymalyon** · 10-07-2019, 12:25 PM

Originally Posted by Nitro25

Going back to that broken timer base advance adjustment linkage ... When the throttls is in WOT position (Engine not running) can you go back and move the timer base back and forth?

I will check this afternoon.

**Motv18** · 10-07-2019, 06:05 PM

Heh this would be funny after all this, but you didn’t accidentally bump that one lever after the install the one that has three positions one for fogging or something.

**jaymalyon** · 10-07-2019, 06:56 PM

Originally Posted by Nitro25

Going back to that broken timer base advance adjustment linkage ... When the throttls is in WOT position (Engine not running) can you go back and move the timer base back and forth?

When the engine is off, throttle wide open, the timer base can move back and forth. However, it is spring loaded and goes back in to position when I release it. It moves all the way forward until it hits the stop screw.

**jaymalyon** · 10-07-2019, 06:59 PM

Originally Posted by Motv18

Heh this would be funny after all this, but you didn’t accidentally bump that one lever after the install the one that has three positions one for fogging or something.

I have changed that. But, it is supposed to be pointing down right?

But yeah, I am convinced it is going to be something stupid I overlooked.

**Nitro25** · 10-07-2019, 07:09 PM

OK Good.

Motav18 touched on something. I've had bad enrichener valves go bad and leak internally. Remove the two small delivery hoses from the solenoid and squeeze the primer bulb, see if you have any fuel squirting out, it's a stretch because usually there failures won't let the engine idle. If you do, remove the larger supply hose, plug it and test run the boat.

**Nitro25** · 10-07-2019, 07:20 PM

Johnson / Evinrude primer solenoid Video

https://youtu.be/BrBj2p4A8xQ

**jaymalyon** · 10-07-2019, 07:30 PM

Dangar Stu! Love that guys videos. I got very familiar with them when I was in the depths of the conversion last year. Brandon's Garage is another good channel. I just about had his lower unit rebuild video memorized I watched it so many times.

As far as the primer solenoid goes, I have replaced it recently and know that it works. I usually hold my key down for about 10 seconds and the motor will fire up on the first turn of the key.

**Motv18** · 10-07-2019, 09:52 PM

Along the solenoid I assume down.

Do do you have a cold hot or on/off stop on the linkage. It’s a limiter for cold weather so you don’t need two props for cold and hot by limiting carb opening when cold. If you do and it’s set to on it will mess up synch if you redo it and limit rpm up to 3/4 throttle.

Cant remember if yours has one they appear randomly or were removed a lot.

Just shotgunnin it this point.

**Nitro25** · 10-08-2019, 02:22 PM

Originally Posted by jaymalyon

Dangar Stu! Love that guys videos. I got very familiar with them when I was in the depths of the conversion last year. Brandon's Garage is another good channel. I just about had his lower unit rebuild video memorized I watched it so many times.

As far as the primer solenoid goes, I have replaced it recently and know that it works. I usually hold my key down for about 10 seconds and the motor will fire up on the first turn of the key.

The fair rpms for five minutes and the loss of power points to electrical. But the slow return to 3300 sounds like fuel. Insert a piece of clear fuel line to the fuel inlet and outlet side of the VRO. As the VRO heats up it could open a crack between the air motor side and the outgoing fuel side. Watch for bubbles in both hoses. but if supply is clear, and discharge is foamy, you've got an internal leak. But make sure the pulse hose is tight and you have the blue pulse restrictor. Other that that start back with degreeing the flywheel and eliminating good ignition components from the equation.

**jaymalyon** · 10-08-2019, 02:25 PM

Originally Posted by Motv18

Along the solenoid I assume down.

Do do you have a cold hot or on/off stop on the linkage. It’s a limiter for cold weather so you don’t need two props for cold and hot by limiting carb opening when cold. If you do and it’s set to on it will mess up synch if you redo it and limit rpm up to 3/4 throttle.

Cant remember if yours has one they appear randomly or were removed a lot.

Just shotgunnin it this point.

I do not have it.