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  1. #1
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    Exclamation 1989 Evinrude 200 not reaching W.O.T. after 20" conversion

    Hey guys,
    I found this forum during the conversion of my 89 Evinrude from a 25" to a 20" driveshaft/midsection. That is complete, and went relatively smooth, besides the unexpected amount of parts it took.
    After initially running the boat since the conversion I was only able to reach 4100 rpm and about 33mph. Pretty disappointing results given that now the motor is sitting exactly where it should be, and I just paid a good amount to have my prop brought up to spec. So, that lead me down the rabbit hole of testing and changing out parts. Here where I am at so far:

    New OEM flywheel
    New CDI stator
    New CDI Timer base
    New CDI Power Pack
    New Sierra ignition coils
    New Champion spark plugs

    None of that solved the problem. Leading me to the fuel delivery system, which I should have started with first. I replaced the tank in 2010 with a brand new one. Last month I rebuilt and cleaned the carbs, and the first run after the rebuild I hit 5500rpm and 45mph. Second run, the motor bogged a little and then topped out at 4000 rpm and has not got back in to the 5's since. Compression test shows 90 psi on all cylinders.

    I'm thinking this has to be a fuel issue. Maybe the proper fuel flow after the carb rebuild knocked some more junk loose in the lines and blocked my carbs up again? I haven't ever changed the original 1989 lines inside the airbox going to the carbs. Everything up to the fuel pump is new, including inline filters and a Racor system.

    Y'all think I'm on the right track, or have any other suggestions?

    Thanks in advance,
    Jay
    Last edited by jaymalyon; 03-18-2019 at 06:16 PM.

  2. #2
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    check timing at wot
    check fuel pressure at wot

  3. #3
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    All you did was swap the powerheads correct didn't do any mods etc?

    Did you do a link and sync ?
    Didn't hit the primer lever?
    I would change the lines could be cracked etc

    How was it running before you swapped to the 20" mid
    Assuming it was running good?
    Compression is good
    Last edited by mrichartz; 03-18-2019 at 08:56 PM.
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor

  4. Likes HaulNbass liked this post
  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrichartz View Post
    Did you do a link and sync ?
    Didn't hit the primer lever?
    I would change the lines could be cracked etc

    How was it running before you swapped to the 20" mid
    Assuming it was running good?
    Compression is good
    I did not do a link and sync, but the fact that it did run at 5500 once right after the carb last month rebuild leads me to believe it is ok. I have a factory manual so I guess I might as well just to be sure.

    The primer lever is facing down.

    It was not running as well as it should before the swap, but didn't run bad if that makes sense. I can't really remember the numbers but it for sure got slower over time. I got a great deal on the motor ($600 craigslist barn find) and installed a 25" motor on my 20" transom. Never thought twice about it and just went fishing and enjoyed the boat every weekend. It wasn't until late last year when I realized the midsections were interchangeable and jumped right into it.

  6. #5
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    If you pulled the carbs etc apart could have come loose/ out of sync when you ran it if something was loose.
    What's not running right or I guess not as good as it should? How was it running?
    And fuel lines if they are original I would bet after taking it apart there is a cracked line leaking.

    Did you test parts or just replace ?
    Did you check timing after replacing parts but if it was running ****ty before that
    Last edited by mrichartz; 03-18-2019 at 09:19 PM.
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor

  7. #6
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    Perhaps you should check carbs and jets are correct for the engine if it has an unknown history?

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrichartz View Post
    If you pulled the carbs etc apart could have come loose/ out of sync when you ran it if something was loose.
    What's not running right or I guess not as good as it should? How was it running?
    And fuel lines if they are original I would bet after taking it apart there is a cracked line leaking.

    Did you test parts or just replace ?
    No mods. All stock.

    Before the swap, it was not reaching w.o.t. but it has always started up and idled fine and behaved well. I'm thinking this was an issue before the swap and has really shown itself now the motor is in the right position and I can accurately gauge the performance.

    All fuel lines from VRO to carbs are original. Lines from tank to VRO have all been replaced in the last 8 years.

    The coils were original and had visible green corrosion on them, so I changed them.
    The boots on the 6 orange wires were crumbling away, so I changed the power pack.
    Flywheel magnets came loose and damaged stator, so I changed both.
    Timer base was changed in 2012 by a shop due to poor starting, which fixed the problem.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by powerabout View Post
    Perhaps you should check carbs and jets are correct for the engine if it has an unknown history?
    I ordered carb rebuild kits according to the serial number and they worked. How would one verify the jets are correct?

  10. #9
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    Motor wasnt over propped and being buried with the 25" was it? Making it not hit top end.
    How many fuel filters do you Have?
    Replace fuel lines look for leaks etc

    Ouch...Flywheel magnets came loose and damaged stator, so I changed both.

    Timer base


    Quote Originally Posted by jaymalyon View Post
    No mods. All stock.

    Before the swap, it was not reaching w.o.t. but it has always started up and idled fine and behaved well. I'm thinking this was an issue before the swap and has really shown itself now the motor is in the right position and I can accurately gauge the performance.

    All fuel lines from VRO to carbs are original. Lines from tank to VRO have all been replaced in the last 8 years.

    The coils were original and had visible green corrosion on them, so I changed them.
    The boots on the 6 orange wires were crumbling away, so I changed the power pack.
    Flywheel magnets came loose and damaged stator, so I changed both.
    Timer base was changed in 2012 by a shop due to poor starting, which fixed the problem.
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor

  11. #10
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    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20180523_210408232_kindlephoto-264262255.jpg 
Views:	37 
Size:	339.1 KB 
ID:	433993The big brass screw at the bottom of carb takebthatbout then use a flathead screw driver to take out jet
    Last edited by mrichartz; 03-18-2019 at 09:46 PM.
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrichartz View Post
    Motor wasnt over propped and being buried with the 25" was it? Making it not hit top end.
    How many fuel filters do you Have?
    Replace fuel lines look for leaks etc

    Ouch...Flywheel magnets came loose and damaged stator, so I changed both.

    Timer base
    Yeah, magnets coming loose made for a bad day on the water. I thought the motor had locked up until my girlfriend noticed the "little black chunks" under the flywheel. Still hasn't let me forget SHE figured out why the boat wouldn't start.

    One Racor spin on filter and one inline filter under the hood.

    Really the worst thing I noticed running the 25" was the steering and the time to get on plane. I'm running the same prop now and from what the guy at my local prop shop tells me, it is correct.

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrichartz View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20180523_210408232_kindlephoto-264262255.jpg 
Views:	37 
Size:	339.1 KB 
ID:	433993The big brass screw at the bottom of carb takebthatbout then use a flathead screw driver to take out jet
    Gotcha. When re-installing the jets is there a specific amount of turns or just screw it in until it stops?

  14. #13
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    Until it stops
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor

  15. #14
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    Start with WOT timing get that set (and will it get to high rpm at the dock with a load)
    You going to have someone do it Or?
    Link and sync
    Fuel lines ..check the filters I know stupid but just had one that the filter was so clogged it wouldn't run
    Check for leaks
    Like power said check the jets never know
    LETS GO BRANDON.... LETS GO BRANDON

    Sometimes I talk to myself...then we both just laugh and laugh

    '84 Checkmate Convincor

  16. #15
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    At the lowers the same gear.

    Working then dropping typically means you didn’t get the dirt so the carbs fouled again.

    Pretty common with hose hose with the liner. More just flakes off jamming things again. (Example only)

    youll probably have to clean clean from the carb all the way back to the tank.

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