1989 Evinrude 200 not reaching W.O.T. after 20" conversion

**Nitro25** · 10-10-2019, 06:46 PM

Starting fluid is too volatile to play with running high rpm. You can do kind of the same thing by holding the back of your hand over each carb throat, this will act as a choke. If you get an increase in rpm that carb is lean. But if the carbs bowl is close to empty because of an obstruction it wont work as well as using the spray bottle.

Just be careful.

Fire Extinguisher handy.

**mrichartz** · 10-10-2019, 06:48 PM

Don't use starting fluid it will wipe the cylinder walls of oil and.. you know what happens. A spray bottle with gas/oil is your best bet and don't need to fill the whole bottle just a half cup or so

**mrichartz** · 10-10-2019, 07:19 PM

Originally Posted by jaymalyon

The way things are going I might be inclined to drag it down to you!

Would aerosol starter fluid do same thing? Spray bottles of gas sound pretty scary.

Yes on the factory carb kits.

Come on you got this!
Take flywheel off and Go over it with a fine tooth comb
And if magnets were reglued I would bet they are in the wrong spots.. you said you got it from a junk yard right?
If you were closer could just swap a flywheel..
I will look and see if I still have another flywheel too

**jaymalyon** · 10-11-2019, 06:36 AM

Originally Posted by mrichartz

Come on you got this!
Take flywheel off and Go over it with a fine tooth comb
And if magnets were reglued I would bet they are in the wrong spots.. you said you got it from a junk yard right?
If you were closer could just swap a flywheel..
I will look and see if I still have another flywheel too

Yes it was a junkyard flywheel, and I am growing increasingly suspicious of it. Going to try and pop it off sometime this weekend.

If you did have a spare fly wheel to swap, I'd pay shipping both ways to test it. Found a few in eBay but they are pricey!

**mrichartz** · 10-11-2019, 07:07 AM

Originally Posted by jaymalyon

Yes it was a junkyard flywheel, and I am growing increasingly suspicious of it. Going to try and pop it off sometime this weekend.

If you did have a spare fly wheel to swap, I'd pay shipping both ways to test it. Found a few in eBay but they are pricey!

Yea they aren't cheap even used..at least what they list them for.. little crazy
Will look later I know I have at least 5-6 BUT not sure if I still have any that ready to go..I might have sold all the good ones(I usually keep them if everything is good and just a loose magnet or two) ..I have another motor coming next week with same flywheel that should be in mint shape so..
Part # 0583427
What's the # on yours just out of curiosity.

Michael

**Motv18** · 10-13-2019, 01:23 PM

I just remembered way back like 15 years ago my 85 Yamaha had a temp sensor that went bad but it wasn’t one that connects to the buzzer. It activates slow or reduced power and disconnect the temp wire had no effect since it wasn’t on that circuit.

It was open but we had to pull every temp sensor from the head to find it. Yamaha tech said it was a backup or confirmation sensor thing both had to read hot to go buzz but one hot or open would reduce power as a false positive.

**mrichartz** · 10-18-2019, 07:44 PM

Originally Posted by jaymalyon

Yes it was a junkyard flywheel, and I am growing increasingly suspicious of it. Going to try and pop it off sometime this weekend.

If you did have a spare fly wheel to swap, I'd pay shipping both ways to test it. Found a few in eBay but they are pricey!

Did you get a chance to pull the flywheel if and look at it?
I don't have one around..have like 4 but all have one magnet loose and haven't gotten around to glueing them. hopefully I can get this other motor soon and flywheel is good if you need to use it..

**jaymalyon** · 10-19-2019, 09:02 AM

Originally Posted by mrichartz

Did you get a chance to pull the flywheel if and look at it?
I don't have one around..have like 4 but all have one magnet loose and haven't gotten around to glueing them. hopefully I can get this other motor soon and flywheel is good if you need to use it..

I have not. I bought a new house on the 11th and have been moving all my junk since. I just got the boat to the new house last night. Hopefully ill get a chance to inspect it this weekend.

Got the part you sent me, thanks again!

**jaymalyon** · 10-19-2019, 09:03 AM

Originally Posted by Motv18

I just remembered way back like 15 years ago my 85 Yamaha had a temp sensor that went bad but it wasn’t one that connects to the buzzer. It activates slow or reduced power and disconnect the temp wire had no effect since it wasn’t on that circuit.

It was open but we had to pull every temp sensor from the head to find it. Yamaha tech said it was a backup or confirmation sensor thing both had to read hot to go buzz but one hot or open would reduce power as a false positive.

I know this motor has the SLOW feature and have thought the same thing.

**Nitro25** · 10-19-2019, 09:50 AM

Originally Posted by jaymalyon

I know this motor has the SLOW feature and have thought the same thing.

To give you an Idea on how bizarre things can get, here's a stretch of an idea. Remember OMC Stern Drives with Electric shift? If not, shifting was accomplished by energizing a coil clutch in the gear case. I had a work order put on my bench one day that said "Drive won't stay down!" ... Ok?

Walked down to the fuel dock, fired up the engine to warm up awhile, and put it in gear to go for a test run. (I figured it was bad tilt clutches that would allow the drive to raise when chopping throttle) I got 20' when I heard ball gear noise and the prop breaking the surface. WTH???

Yep, every time I would go into forward gear, the drive would pop up! To shorten a long story I FINALLY found a screw that was too long holding a piece of gunwale trim that was run clean through the engine wiring harness. It took two years of vibration to marry the "Tilt up" and "forward Gear" wires together.

So... Make sure there is absolutely no intermittent ground reference on the S.L.O.W. circuit. We used to check pesky kill switch circuits by using a CD77 peak reading VM. By tapping off a Charge coil lead and the kill wire. Any voltage reading will represent a reference to ground. This would work on the S.L.O.W. sender and curcuit.

D.

**Nitro25** · 10-19-2019, 09:59 AM

P.S There's about 600 Volts there, be careful!

**mrichartz** · 10-19-2019, 10:38 AM

Congratulations on the new house..
Question for all..the slow feature makes it drop to/at below 2500
Controlled by Powerpack..
It's 3900 is it possible something in the wiring or pack makes it ..crap lost train of thought..but will come back
(I forget..it was doing this and you replaced the pack once already correct I don't want read this all again.. lol)
Will look and see if I have another I know is good ..
Even if I'm not 100% sure if it's good I will send one.
Ive seen new Powerpacks do strange things and even two in a row.. third times the charm
Still start with flywheel ..
But the fact it's hitting a wall at 3900

Michael

**Motv18** · 10-19-2019, 08:36 PM

Iirc currently it’s @4k for a bit then 3k which has us going after possibly slow or rcsrsc thing. As slow active would be a good pack but bad triggers. When all triggers for slow checked as good then new pack. Was what I was taught.

All the normal stuff stuff is off we think (oil, shift, pump wire, fuels been through twice ect.) we are even repeating pack and stator flywheel and trigger stuff currently. Psi is good cranking speeds good, the red levers good.

Sadly after most most of this it would be time to pull it apart for possible blown rollers causing enough friction it can’t spool up. And double checking the foots good and not loaded and I think we checked the prop for a slipped hub.

To recap.

**mrichartz** · 10-19-2019, 09:21 PM

Originally Posted by Motv18

Iirc currently it’s @4k for a bit then 3k which has us going after possibly slow or rcsrsc thing. As slow active would be a good pack but bad triggers. When all triggers for slow checked as good then new pack. Was what I was taught.

All the normal stuff stuff is off we think (oil, shift, pump wire, fuels been through twice ect.) we are even repeating pack and stator flywheel and trigger stuff currently. Psi is good cranking speeds good, the red levers good.

Sadly after most most of this it would be time to pull it apart for possible blown rollers causing enough friction it can’t spool up. And double checking the foots good and not loaded and I think we checked the prop for a slipped hub.

To recap.

Ok made me read it all again anyway lol.we started going back and forth with this back in march I dont feel so bad trying to remember now..need to confirm some stuff..
Ok it's post 56,59,62 he says it's 3900 and hitting a wall..
Runs fine up to that nit struggling or anything.
but doesn't say anything about dropping down from there.. but at post 135 when testing cold says it gets to 4000 but then dropped to 3300?
So is it dropping to 3300 or typo?
And I know he's pulled and looked at flywheel but something someone said at some point made me think flywheel and Powerpack really needs to be looked at again.
Have you just looked at the lower unit oil ?
And I looked don't have a pack here will look around for one..
Oh did you ever try bypassing fuel pump? Even tho consensus seems like electrical..

Michael

**mrichartz** · 10-19-2019, 09:38 PM

[QUOTE=Nitro25;3168521]To give you an Idea on how bizarre things can get, here's a stretch of an idea. Remember OMC Stern Drives with Electric shift? If not, shifting was accomplished by energizing a coil clutch in the gear case. I had a work order put on my bench one day that said "Drive won't stay down!" ... Ok?

Walked down to the fuel dock, fired up the engine to warm up awhile, and put it in gear to go for a test run. (I figured it was bad tilt clutches that would allow the drive to raise when chopping throttle) I got 20' when I heard ball gear noise and the prop breaking the surface. WTH???

Yep, every time I would go into forward gear, the drive would pop up! To shorten a long story I FINALLY found a screw that was too long holding a piece of gunwale trim that was run clean through the engine wiring harness. It took two years of vibration to marry the "Tilt up" and "forward Gear" wires together.

...Yea that's the kind of stuff that can have you scratching your head for awhile..