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  1. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by InjectorService View Post
    ALWAYS have injectors tested after purchasing them unless you purchase from a REPUTABLE injector shop. I've lost count on how many "just serviced" or "flow matched" sets I've tested that aren't even good for scrap. Its too bad you had to learn this the hard way.

    Blake
    I can guarantee Forbes knows all about it. Actually owns auto mechanic shop , it was a customers motor , I'm sure the customer was impatient and wanted save a buck but I bet he learned a lesson

  2. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merc 2.5 View Post
    I can guarantee Forbes knows all about it. Actually owns auto mechanic shop , it was a customers motor , I'm sure the customer was impatient and wanted save a buck but I bet he learned a lesson
    Makes sense, I'm newer here, still learning whos who and does what. But I do agree, usually it is the customer not wanting to spend the money or being impatient.


    www.InjectorService.com
    Call/Text - 204-326-0390



  3. #123
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    Welp, to add some more good info, I am building a 300 HPDI. And now can give some true numbers from it. The average boost port opens at 117.5* ranging from 117 to 118 between cylinders. Transfers open a little later at an average of 119.5* all over the place ranging from 118.5 to 120.5 from cylinder to cylinder. The exhaust done just as I thought it would, opens at average of 92.75* ranging from 92.5 to 93 with average blowdown at 24.75. It’s going to get cleaned up and blue printed to ex chamfers open @ 89*, port open @92.5*, boosters @ 117* giving it a blowdown of 24.5 across the board and transfers open 2* later at 119* (one port with open @118.5 #4 lower transfer. And Btw Chaz, another set of heads coming your way

  4. #124
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    Thanks for the heads up and the updated measurements. That's about where I ended up with my 225 port work.
    About 180 degrees of exhaust duration.
    I pushed the port width out to 65% IIRC. Which basically just gets rid of the generous yamaha chamfers.

    Can you let me know what numbers are stamped into the arm of the oil pump?
    Allegedly the 300's oil pump pushes more oil. So I'm looking at trying to find one.
    Or if anyone has any ideas as to increasing oiling capacity slightly. As I care about 0% about the clean burning characteristics.

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  6. #125
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    Oil pump numbers are 6D004. If ya need any more info, give me a shout.

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  8. #126
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    So, noticed this shelf below throttle plates where looks like the machining process ended for the throat of the throttles. This is on a 300 HPDI. I’m thinking of blending this area to make a smooth transition. Don’t want to open up the lower to increase air flow too much being I can tune this thing. Anyone know if these things are a tad on rich side from factory or are they pushing it pretty clean. Like is there much room for improving air flow without getting bit?
    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #127
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    Forbes.
    I blended mine out completely top and bottom. As you can see the 300 uses the same casting they just do a crappy job boring it for bigger TB's.
    My 225 has 300 porting, intake, reeds and cut heads. Running the 300 ECU the boat ran great all year. I checked the plugs constantly and they always looked great.

    I did lose the motor at the end of the year for unrelated reasons. (Long story short my oil injection turned into water injection)

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  11. #128
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    Looks like I’m gonna blend this one. Glad ya said that, I knew the 300 had larger T/B, but makes sense on the boring of the smaller hp models. I was beginning to think I was slacking on the 225 and didn’t catch that garbage. But sounds like it wasn’t like that being it was all smaller.

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  13. #129
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    The hydrotec TB has that blended out. However, I found way more performance by cutting the stock airbox up. Then I melted a couple of pistons, so there’s that.

    Speaking of tuning, I don’t see a MAP or MAF sensor on that engine so my best guess is the control system is n-alpha. In other words the fueling is determined by the engine rpm and throttle angle. If that’s the case, you can richen it up by adjusting the TPS to obtain a higher voltage at wot.

  14. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by engineermike View Post
    The hydrotec TB has that blended out. However, I found way more performance by cutting the stock airbox up. Then I melted a couple of pistons, so there’s that.

    Speaking of tuning, I don’t see a MAP or MAF sensor on that engine so my best guess is the control system is n-alpha. In other words the fueling is determined by the engine rpm and throttle angle. If that’s the case, you can richen it up by adjusting the TPS to obtain a higher voltage at wot.
    You're correct it is N-Alpha. I saw a company sold an inline harness that appears to cheat the IAT to richen things up.
    Myself and a friend of mine are into the ECU and have tuning capability. Just haven't got that far yet. Hoping to install data logger and start that game this year.

    Are you sure the airbox chop is actually what caused it to melt down?
    These things seem to let go for no apparent reason even in stock form.

  15. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by canuckr View Post
    Are you sure the airbox chop is actually what caused it to melt down?
    These things seem to let go for no apparent reason even in stock form.
    Not at all. It melted the top two on the starboard side. Water pressure, temp, and oiling, TPS voltage were all verified good. I pulled all the fuel filters (including mystery) and all were clean. I even had the injectors tested and they checked
    out good.

  16. #132
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    Yah that seems about as concrete as it gets.
    I have EGT probes in my block. Assuming the gauge is correct. This thing runs hot, 1400° plus at times.
    So not a lot of room.

  17. #133
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    I was toying with idea of manipulating a temp sensor signal or fuel pressure signal to richen up the 225 I done. Most ecms learn the max tp voltage it sees to be wot, so worried that won’t do it. I know the 225 and 250s just love to melt down at a drop of the hat. Seemed the 300s didn’t have as much issues, which made me think they maybe wasn’t as on edge of lean as others. But both responses had melt downs running 300 ecms, not real comforting lol.

  18. #134
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    This is a cool thread, helped a lot with my rebuild.
    Here is where I am at with my 08 250 hpdi...
    08 250 with 300 heads, compression is up about 10-12 psi.
    Spark plugs are cleaner than ever.
    Question is, can I put the bigger 300 throttle bodies on? 46mm vs 43mm.
    How about a spacer, with 43mm or 46mm throttle body?
    Will all this continue to lean out this motor? I have to assume it would be safe, I think Hydrotec stuff is just bolt on and go.
    But now I read I can turn up the tps for more fuel at WOT?
    My thoughts on TB spacer on a BASS boat is this......I think the main reason for it was TORQUE, longer intake makes TORQUE. The HPDI is a low revving motor, and heavy boat needs torque. Lots of people say they noticed no top end change....makes sense to me.

    Thoughts?
    I would have to cut up my airbox to use a 1" spacer I think.

  19. #135
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    The larger throttle body will cause it to lean out more. The magic question is how far you can go safely. These things already make me nervous for their likin to melt pistons. Best thing to do is monitor plugs really good and make sure it’s getting too lean, if you’re still a little on rich side now you may be safe, if getting close to right, will need a different tune or 300 ECM to swap. Try contacting hydrotec, I’m sure they can answer that question more definitely, but no matter what what the plugs as ever motor is different.
    The spacer won’t change mixture much, should shift torque curve down in the RPM some. Like mentioned I don’t see much gains in top end. The intake tract is pretty straight and free flowing on these, so I don’t see much significant increase in power or torque by adding a spacer. Definitely won’t hurt, and could help ya with the load, I feel it will be more of shift of where the torque comes in on this particular motor.
    I’m not sure increasing TP voltage at wot will richin up the mixture. Most ECMs will learn min and maximum voltage and assigns them as CT and WOT to account for wear and carbon build up and things like that so you don’t have running issues. For instance if TP closed throttle voltage was 0.80 volts and was 4.75 at Wot. You move the sensor to now read 0.95 volts at CT and 4.90 volts at WOT, the ECM will acknowledge it saw a higher voltage at WOT than it has ever seen and will relearn the two values as it’s new CP and WOT positions instead of giving it more fuel.
    Again, I’m not 100%sure the HPDI ECM will function this way, but feel it’s new enough to at least have this technology
    Last edited by FORBESAUTO; 06-11-2022 at 09:16 AM.

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