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09-19-2022, 09:24 AM #91
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09-27-2022, 09:28 PM #92
It is simple but i think that's where i was messing up, i tried a few test spots going down to a low grit, I was taking ALL the orange peel out with the low grit !! I have since started on some areas with 220 dry and leaving some orange peel like you said, then I can go over everything with 400. I am even comfortable going down to 120 dry in some of the very heavy peel areas knowing I can back out with 220 +......Ideally I want 400 wet to take out all the remaining peel and then I can go up to 600 wet -> 800 wet
Here is what I have so far, I actually resprayed the splash well and transom, I didnt like how the last gradient turned out as I was sanding so I made a hard line around the jack plate and taped around the transom eyes. Best I could do with the different gelcoat colors
Let me know what you guys think
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11-12-2022, 08:08 PM #93
The warm weather this late into November helped get some stuff done before winter...
So took pretty much all summer to paint the boat and start rigging it like putting the rub rail on, power steering
Not quite ready to run, will get the seats and gas tank done this winter and by spring I should be able to test drive (before I finish everything, like the gelcoat finishing and put the carpet in, etc)
The process I used to polish the gelcoat was actually more sanding DRY than wet, I would take off most of the orange peel with 220 dry changing discs often and then step up to 400 grit dry to remove the rest of the orange peel, the key is to wipe the surface with a towel so the orange peel/areas that still need sanding appear, very hard to sand the peel out with dust on the surface or even water if wet sanding, then a final step of 800 wet before wax and polish
My dad came over today so we bleed the hydraulic steering and I parked our boats in the back yard to get ready for shinkwrapping
Should be back in this thread next year
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11-19-2022, 03:12 PM #94
Looks great!
'78 Hydrostream Viking/'98 225 ProMax
Restoration: https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...Viking-rebuild
Pictures: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152974...57708863869223
Videos: https://www.youtube.com/tnels
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11-23-2022, 01:45 PM #95
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11-23-2022, 03:35 PM #96
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89LASER liked this post
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11-27-2022, 11:34 PM #97
That turned out sweeeeet! Great job! You should be proud of your hard work!
1990 Shadow bass boat w/ 2.4 200 Merc. Totally resto'd boat and love it!
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12-05-2022, 01:42 AM #98Member
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What a great looking boat. Such a unique design.
Couple questions for you:
Where did you get the all black rubrail?
Why make the splash well flat? Sorry if this is a dumb question. I just have never seen that done before.
Any idea how much that motor weighs? Just curious as I’m about to repower. I rebuilt my transome a few years back and will be adding a jack plate so I’m always curious to see how much people are hanging off the back verses how they built the transom.
Cheers!
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12-05-2022, 12:06 PM #99
Yes the Virage doesnt look like your typical boat, looks different than many of the other Hydrostreams, most Hydrostreams models were pretty unqiue looking though which I think is why many people like them
The Virage hull seam is different from other Hydrostreams, it uses a "shoebox" style instead of a flanged seam,
I looked into so many rub rail variations, changed my mind many times
I hope to never have to put another rub rail on, it was probably one of the most challenging parts of restoring the boat, because it is a RIGID...it's like straighten out a spring and mostly impossible to do without a second person to unwind it as you screw it on...atleast thats how ill try if there is a next time, maybe it will be a little easier...
Finally chose this model rub rail, seems like it is the most similar to the OEM rub rail, except for not being aluminum, metal rub rails are hard to find, the OEM rub rail my Virage came with was in rough shape so I didnt want to reuse it, I think it looks pretty good and I was able to keep the colors to mostly red / black, plan to get some black gauges to match all the other black accessories
R1238 Rigid Rubrail (takes F98175 Flexible Insert) SKU: 01238RL0732-056GI Color: Black 56' coil
F98175 Flexible Insert SKU: 98175DD0732-055GI Color: Dull Black 55' Coil
CAPECR-2 Plastic End Cap SKU: CAPECR2 Color: Black
As far as the splashwell, I flattened it so I can add knee supports on the inside of the transom, its kinda like a 3 point system where you have one piece of wood connected to the transom, floor, and splashwell to make it more durable hanging a 12" bracket off the back, should work in theory well see how my work holds up on the water...
I made the splashwell flat but I wish I made a small cut out (like I've seen on other Virages) because the control cables bend when trimming the engine all the way up with the jackplate all the way down, I like to have full movement in all directions without having to worry about the connections, Ill look at that more in the spring...
Motor doesnt weight much maybe about 450 lbs???
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12-05-2022, 09:50 PM #100Member
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Thanks much for the specific info. I checked out that site and they seem to have the most options I’ve seen. Not too pricey like others.
My rubrail is garbage but I’ve been holding on to it just in case. It at least fits the shape of my boat. I was wondering how the heck you could install such a thing if it was coiled up when I was pulling mine off.
The splashwell on yours looks great. My boat has one and I’m toying with the idea of chopping most of it out and just leaving a shallow well. I have had abrupt shut downs and water wash over the transom since my boat is a tunnel and has a really low rise.
Thanks again for the info and great write up. Really curious how it rides for ya when you are finished.
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09-03-2023, 08:24 AM #101
Back for seems like an annual update,
Finally got the Virage on the water yesterday, here are some pictures of the work I did this year and then for the on the water pics in a post below
Still have some work to do like sanding the polishing the remaining gelcoat, put carpet in and setup the engine a little more
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09-03-2023, 08:27 AM #102
Some of the rigging is temporary like the gas pedal floor piece because I wanted to make sure that it was in the right spot, also I used a 6" air sander to sand the interior gelcoat, the paper you see on the floor is only for the small spots the air sander could not reach...I will also add pics of the gas tank/battery setup and also behind the dashboard as all those gauges and wires took a bit to organize
Last edited by Aaronhl; 09-03-2023 at 08:35 AM.
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David liked this post
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09-03-2023, 08:35 AM #103
saved
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09-03-2023, 08:37 AM #104
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LakeFever thanked for this postLakeFever, OnPad, David, oldschoolltv, motexas, Laseraddict, 89LASER, VkingMike, Hippie459MN liked this post
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09-03-2023, 08:53 AM #105
Awesome! Looks great, thanks for updating its so satisfying to follow a build thread through to the end. It puts a big smile on my face im sure you must be amped too
Hydrostream dreamin
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