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  1. #1
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    Correct center mains for Merc 2.5

    Using a different crank which has no retainers shoulders for the center mains going into a 1998 Merc 2.5L block. I know I need center mains with the retainer lip. I need the correct part number to order them.. I lost that info. I retired from rebuilding these things.. But I know to use the right bearings.. Pro Marine number is OK or the OE number or X-ref.. Thanks in advance for input..
    20ft Gambler with Merc 260
    Too many projects to liist..

  2. #2
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    Pro Marine number for the 260-280-300 Drags middle main bearings I build is :
    167
    OEM # is 31-16756A6

    Good luck !
    Jay
    Jay @ JSRE


  3. #3
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    NO NO NO...2.4 cranks.... NO

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  5. #4
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    Dunno , 2.4’s ain’t my bag , I’m saying what middle mains I use in ALL 2.5 engines ...

    Jay
    Jay @ JSRE


  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave S View Post
    NO NO NO...2.4 cranks.... NO


    Jay is correct on the center mains, they are the right ones for the block! The unshouldered 2.4 crank is the wrong choice for a 2.5 block!
    Josh Peterson

  7. #6
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    you cannot/should not use a NON-SHOULDERED crank in a 2.5 style block period.........…

    tha only "early crank" that will work come fron tha 2.0 production and Hi Perf. 2.4.... they are shouldered to accept tha plastic case bearing.....
    Last edited by tlwjkw; 02-19-2019 at 09:08 AM.

  8. #7
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    yes

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlwjkw View Post
    you cannot/should not use a NON-SHOULDERED crank in a 2.5 style block period.........…

    tha only "early crank" that will work come fron tha 2.0 production and Hi Perf. 2.4.... they are shouldered to accept tha plastic case bearing.....

    Great info for the frankenmerc type.

    Rock
    Team Junk

    No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.

    "Screamin Heathen"

  10. #9
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    tha "crank, center bearing issue" has been discussed many, many times on here..... some folks say they run tha non-shouldered crank with tha big OD plastic with no problems.. so they say?.. never had such thing happen with tha ones I actually saw for my self......

  11. #10
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    I would think.....that when the rollers find that part of crank that is larger than the right size.... the bearings be not happy.... better to use the right part. A early 2.0 crank will work

  12. #11
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    Any chance someone can post pictures of the "shouldered" vs "non shouldered" cranks?
    Mike Nass
    Haulin Nass RaceBoats (HNR)
    www.haulinnassraceboats.com
    e-mail - MikeNass@shaw.ca
    phone - 604-230-4835

  13. #12
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    counter weight will be smooth on tha face on non-shouldered where tha one below you can see tha shouldered center mains.... best I can do for ya since photo bucket went south!


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/7236A2-8745...TtAx:rk:1:pf:0

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Nass View Post
    Any chance someone can post pictures of the "shouldered" vs "non shouldered" cranks?
    Mike,I can't do the pics,but the shoulder in question is built and machined on the counter weight where the center main journals meet the counter weights.This shoulder,or flange,is there to support the upper and lower edges of the plastic needle carrier,that runs in an open-ended outer race.The 2.4 crank has no flange,only a radiused joint.This crank ran a bearing that had a flange on the center main races,that held the needles captive.There is no similar bearing available to fit the larger 2.5 main ways,so only the flanged crank can be used,or the plastic needle carrier will wear away on the unfinished counterweight surface.Hope this clarifies,Chris

  15. #14
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    The real early 2.0 cranks can work... just use 2.5 bearings and top from early 2.0..... Put ya 2.4 cranks in 2.4s and early 2.0s.....

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