Is more tabbing needed

[outasite]

When fitting my new stringers I got the fit to within an eighth inch,then sanded (60 grit)primed the floor and stringer with wet epoxy.Then beded into a layer of thick Cabosil and faired it out.After it set,the whole stringer was covered with a layer of 8 1/2 Oz 45/45 than extends about 2 1/2" out onto the floor. Question,do I really need more tabbing for the stringer to the floor? I like the look as is.The out side of the stringer is set in mud 1" deep as it rest against an inside strake.it sure seems tough as is.

[GregAdams]

Looks like plywood? If it is, how did you join it the get the length?

[outasite]

Greg,Yes it is plywood.The original stringers were made from what we call in the US, CDX exterior home builders plywood five ply. What I replaced that with is, British Standard spec#1088 marine plywood nine ply. A 45/45 splice is made at the side of the seat box where a doubler (part of the seat box) will be installed using a piece of 1700 biax between them.The design of this scarf joint puts the splice in compression,rather than tension.Im confident this is far superior than as built.The original was covered with one layer of chopped strand mat,and not bedded to the floor,just sitting on it.A few pictures may give you a better idea.

[largecar91]

I personally would not tab it in anymore. I think the way you did it will be far stronger than factory.

[GregAdams]

My only concern would be the splice. That 45 degree splice is only marginally better than a 90 degree butt join and is a significant weak point in the stringer as it is. If you are confident that the seat box will overcome this weakness then I would think you are good to go. You could of course add more tabbing but if you rebuild the boat so it will never break anywhere it will way a tonne, literally . You are doing a great job

[rjdubiel]

That splice could have been longer from my READINGS, but again, thats fixing some damn IO or something. As a fast dude told me just last week, if your on that part of the boat hitting the water, you did something wrong! good as is.

[FMP]

How about a finger or dove maybe lapped with dowel?

[GregAdams]

The only decent way to do it if you don't want to butt strap the join is an 8:1 scarph joint.

[outasite]

Thanks for everyone's input.Somewhere at home I've got a piece of aviation 5/16 12 or 14 ply leftover from another project,I may clamp a 15" piece of that and another 1700 on the outside.Taper the edges and being right at the seat box,it won't be noticeable.

[FMP]

Some good options with illustrations, narrow piece to work though.
http://www.sawdustmaking.com/woodjoints/scarf.htm#f218

[XstreamVking]

A simple jig that is wedge shaped and a router will make a nice long scarf. I use it for foam, penske, wood, and ply. Tapers from 1'' down to 0 over 16''. Router just slides on top of it mounted to a flat pc of lexan. Slide your material in and rout a tapered scarf joint.
This guys is a little crude but works fine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2V6Sfd64-w0
This one is for bigger panels and built better https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQ9-WgwnQiM

[GregAdams]

I do it pretty much the same way you do X.

[W2F a V-King]

With your build quality of materials used and your top shelf craftsmanship....This boat is waaaayyy stronger than when Howard's boys built it.

Rock on Bob !!

[FMP]

I'd consider dowels in that scarf, 90° to the joining, cut flush outside , sanded level.

[XstreamVking]

Layer of glass between pieces of a scarf is very strong and is the boat builders accepted method.