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Thread: First 2.5 mods

  1. #31
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    And this boat planes right up..I made some 20 foot long 6" strakes and it jumps right on them..Ran 44 so far at 5300 but looks like i was down a cylinder also..

  2. #32
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    do you remember tha days when tha real deal was a 10 lb. flywheel ona small block gasser??.. how that changed ta 40's?....

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHEVYMAN434 View Post
    Well damn,i thought this engine i have is a big motor.lol...Went from a 2 plus 2 125..What else would i use? A 3 litre 300 plus?
    I'm no tritoon expert, but if you really want to run 55, you may need to look into a 350 Verado. Might want to put the old motor back on the tritoon and pick up a high performance hull for your current motor and have some fun. Nice hull and trailer combos can be had for 5 or 6k. Others who know more can offer better advice, but I think it will take A LOT of horsepower to see 55 on your tritoon.

  4. #34
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    I am 57 now and I know what it' like to get on a tangent and need to find only those answers that meet your immdiate performance thoughts - take a day catch your self gather your thoughts - nice tritoon ride - enjoy the comfort and the reliable stock motor - save your dough . No race gas - no reflash - Stock . I think your on the right track rebuilding avoid the need to cut heads and such for performance . I believe if you step back you might see this - it' been mentioned a few times . Enjoy the new toon not the tune and it' associated costs.
    Last edited by kellytheaker; 01-21-2019 at 07:39 PM.

  5. #35
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    What's the weight of the boat?

  6. #36
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    With the weight you're pushing the heavy flywheel isn't even a bad thing...

    Just find someone competent to get it running right. Send the injectors and computer to Brucato to have the injectors cleaned and flowed and the ecm checked. They will test to make sure all the drivers are ok, etc!
    Josh Peterson

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHEVYMAN434 View Post
    Yeah..the guy i got here doing it says it is just lighter and help it get up out the hole..
    Lighter helps on a small light boat. Look up JW "the wheel" flexplate for heavy bracket racer cars. Heavy flywheel helps with acceleration on a heavy rig. The extra rotational inertia helps keep everything moving. The short pitch prop is going to get it out of the hole...

    I would be looking at 4 blade props with lots of blade area to maximize low speed control (docking) and reverse thrust. These things are more important on a toon...
    Josh Peterson

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  9. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitro_rat View Post
    Lighter helps on a small light boat. Look up JW "the wheel" flexplate for heavy bracket racer cars. Heavy flywheel helps with acceleration on a heavy rig. The extra rotational inertia helps keep everything moving. The short pitch prop is going to get it out of the hole...

    I would be looking at 4 blade props with lots of blade area to maximize low speed control (docking) and reverse thrust. These things are more important on a toon...
    I don't agree with the heavy flywheel helping acceleration in the case of an outboard motor,heavy or light boat.Comparing a drag car to a boat is worse than apples to oranges...the car spools up and stores lots of energy in a heavy flywheel,like a friction car toy...with a high stall converter or a heavy clutch/flywheel spun up you can get pretty far if you loose the motor on launch.Not so with the outboard,you cant rev up and release the stored energy.The heavier the flywheel,the more energy it will take to get it up to speed,same for the boat...
    There are good reasons for a heavy flywheel...less stalling,smoother idle,less kickback starting...but not better acceleration in the outboard world.I do agree there wont be a noticeable difference,on a very active boat I would prefer the red flywheel,not so much for the weight savings but the flex plate is easier on the crank snout and upper bearing.

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  11. #39
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    kinda agree with ya but figure that if that top stuff was a potential problem then tha heavier flywheel would have gone away a long time ago.. don't think tha merc folks would leave it tha way or so many years if it made that type difference...…...jmo.

  12. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Carson's Marine View Post
    I don't agree with the heavy flywheel helping acceleration in the case of an outboard motor,heavy or light boat.Comparing a drag car to a boat is worse than apples to oranges...the car spools up and stores lots of energy in a heavy flywheel,like a friction car toy...with a high stall converter or a heavy clutch/flywheel spun up you can get pretty far if you loose the motor on launch.Not so with the outboard,you cant rev up and release the stored energy.The heavier the flywheel,the more energy it will take to get it up to speed,same for the boat...
    There are good reasons for a heavy flywheel...less stalling,smoother idle,less kickback starting...but not better acceleration in the outboard world.I do agree there wont be a noticeable difference,on a very active boat I would prefer the red flywheel,not so much for the weight savings but the flex plate is easier on the crank snout and upper bearing.
    What's your feelings on cutting the heads Mr.Carson?

  13. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by CHEVYMAN434 View Post
    Well damn,i thought this engine i have is a big motor.lol...Went from a 2 plus 2 125..What else would i use? A 3 litre 300 plus?
    The 2.0,2.4 ,2.5 is considered small block of out board and 3.0 ,and 3.2 etc is big blocks. 3l has lots lots more bottom end torque to get the big ole toon movin

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  15. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Merc 2.5 View Post
    The 2.0,2.4 ,2.5 is considered small block of out board and 3.0 ,and 3.2 etc is big blocks. 3l has lots lots more bottom end torque to get the big ole toon movin
    https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...-250-EFI-2500&

    Turn more prop, safer to mod for more
    Last edited by FMP; 01-22-2019 at 09:49 AM.

  16. #43
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    My uncle has a Tritoon and a 225 opti and runs 60ish, prob could get more but he bought it new and didn't change nething and it run 60,

  17. #44
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    Not bad!

  18. #45
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    I’ve found the biggest seat of the pant feel as well as out of pocket reduction is compression increase . I cut EVERY set of head on EVERY motors I build as well as maching a bunch of heads sent to me to cut .People love the low dollar non intrusive upgrade .

    Far as the fishing grade motor flywheel reduced in weight my take would be it could take some on the forward and aft load on the cheezy upper bearing . On every motor I build the Tygon tubing that comes from the lower check to the upper check that feeds the upper bearing with lube I install a tee in the upper portion of that transfer line , the lubrication that the upper bearing gets fed is diluted with fuel , the tee in the upper part of that line allows the user to inject non diluted oil in the upper bearing thus , I find , allows that bearing the best shot of a long life run , been doing them that way for 20 years and can’t remember a top bearing failure on a any JSRE engine build .....

    JMO,
    Jay @ JSRE
    Jay @ JSRE


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