Pole barn structure in fla

**speedracer** · 01-10-2019, 10:44 AM

hay you florida guys I bought myself a nice little 1 acre lot on the outskirts of palatka , this is in putnam county.my plan is to build a pretty good size pole barn to house the boats in with enough room for a apartment to stay in when i come down for extended stays. any one know how strict the building codes are on just a pole barn are, I know i have to submit a plan to the county for approval before i can do anything, these kentucky winters are getting longer every year and i plan on spending some of it on the st.johns river. Thanks .

**XstreamVking** · 01-10-2019, 11:03 AM

I would build it very strong and have a metal 5-V galvalume roof (screwed not nailed) covering with 5/8'' plywood as a base covered by felt. This is how mine is built and been thru 3+ hurricanes! Use the best telephone poles you can get and sink them as far as you can. (I used channel marker posts, creosote saturated. Use trusses with no king post so you have a nice wide center walkway in the attic area. 5''/12'' slope is a good ratio for fla. Make sure it is high enough for a good sized rv to fit.

Edit*** Use a few more straps and clips on the trusses than recommended since the open sides will allow strong wind to lift up on the roof. Think of 150 mph

as a possibility. Thru bolt the truss supports to the shouldered post tops with galvanized fasteners.

**rock** · 01-10-2019, 11:12 AM

I don't know about Florida but I have lived in an 11,000 ft pole barn for the last 35 years. When we built the first section we used treated 6x6 poles. All subsequent additions, there have been several, we used 3 treated 2x6s fastened together. The laminated poles are much better resisting moisture and termites due to a more thorough penetration of the wood. I agree with screws over nails and the heavier the gauge on the steel the better. Also strongly recommend wind braces on all corners and at each corner of the roof. Great buildings if they are built right.

Rock

**Turtleherder** · 01-10-2019, 03:29 PM

Originally Posted by XstreamVking

I would build it very strong and have a metal 5-V galvalume roof (screwed not nailed) covering with 5/8'' plywood as a base covered by felt. This is how mine is built and been thru 3+ hurricanes! Use the best telephone poles you can get and sink them as far as you can. (I used channel marker posts, creosote saturated. Use trusses with no king post so you have a nice wide center walkway in the attic area. 5''/12'' slope is a good ratio for fla. Make sure it is high enough for a good sized rv to fit.

creosoted channel marker poles is F’ing brilliant.

**XstreamVking** · 01-10-2019, 03:56 PM

Haha 1st hot summer the tar weeped out of the posts and puddled on the ground around the posts. If you chainsaw the posts DO NOT let the chips get on you. They will leave a mark. I am not sure you can get the creosote posts anymore....I built mine 30 yrs ago myself from scrounged materials.

**kellytheaker** · 01-10-2019, 07:24 PM

Sounds like reasonable way to live . I have built 2 pole barns and the fist one 30 by 50ft was a simple 5/12 pitch and thought I missed the boat by not having a loft. My code for truss only allows 26ft for a unsupported clear span truss - FL may be different . My second build incorporated a loft truss and I am much more satisfied due to storage or living space available up top . I would contact and get what your height restrictions are and suspect this will be a poured slab on grade . I don' know what your after for size but I would keep at least a foot above grade for water issues . Give thought to a hip roof as well - like a barn roof . Be aware the second story will need to be insulated well - I would suggest spray foam for Less expensive cooling bills on a second story in FL . A loft living space allows all main floor to be all used for parking and shaded work area all open or half open sides . Of course the examples of Vic West steel for roofing is the best as well as screws and is simple and fast as well as the advice to plywood decking and underlay for the roof. The sides only need to be strapped with 2by4 for steel . The hurricane clips and galvanized hardware through bolted ribbons will be code I suspect and remember code is minimum build well beyond code - We can learn from history or we can repeat it .- make sure you position your building to gain a consistent breeze for enjoyment or ventilation and to resist the problem of storm damage . Remember to build above grade and have a slope . Take a site of your property - swamp - well drained , roadways above your grade all tell a tale of water coming your way or all slope away from you and your dry . walk the adjoining properties possible problems will be evident from what others have built and insight from neighbours can save you grief. Mature up on what code is and what' allowed . Pole barns are relatively a simple build just a bit of work . You have some good advice above - hope this helps instill some confidence in your exciting new projects future plans .

**Ziemer** · 01-10-2019, 09:43 PM

You will need to submit plans signed/sealed by either a Florida registered architect or structural engineer. Basically, site plan, footing/foundation plan, roof framing plab, electrical (if you have electric) and miscellaneous details, hurricane strapping etc. Number of sets and all will depend on the building department.

Also, if you ever plan on building a house you will want to talk to zoning so they can tell you how large of an “accessory” structure you can build.

**Davidlake** · 01-10-2019, 09:55 PM

Please do yourself a favor and spend a little money up front and hire an architect. It will save you 10 fold in the long run. Trust me on this. I know.

**JPEROG** · 01-10-2019, 09:56 PM

Putnam is about as easy as it gets to deal with. Spend the extra money on 24 gauge metal for the roof along with good peel and stick underlain. Go with standing seam if you can budget it and its good for a lifetime.

I have the connection for treated dock pilings and hurricane rated steel truss packages. Call if I can help by passing on contact info.

Joe
386 527 1845

**rock** · 01-11-2019, 08:10 AM

Originally Posted by Davidlake

Please do yourself a favor and spend a little money up front and hire an architect. It will save you 10 fold in the long run. Trust me on this. I know.

Why would you need an architect for a pole building?

Rock

**CUDA** · 01-11-2019, 08:37 AM

Contact the power company in your area ask about used power poles.

**rock** · 01-11-2019, 08:58 AM

I have seen many open wall sheds built with poles but I have no idea how you could possibly build a straight building with round poles. I have never seen any pole that was not tapered. Trees are bigger at the bottom than the top. With that being said how is it possible to build anything plumb and straight with tapered poles? I am not trying to criticize anybody's methods but as a cabinet maker/builder/machinist accuracy has always been paramount.

Rock

**speedracer** · 01-11-2019, 09:14 AM

Thanks Jo i may be calling you, gona fly down down in a few weeks to close the deal on the property and im gona stay for a few days and try and talk to a few local builders on how much trouble this project is gona be. my thoughts on size are a 42/80 ft , need room for at least 2 boats a truck / 32 ft motor home, and room for a 1 bedroom apartment. property already has a well and pump/ also has electric and sewer from a house trailer that was previously on the property. not gona live there full time just want a warm winter geatway place. thanks everyone for the ideas an advice.

**Ziemer** · 01-11-2019, 10:13 AM

Pretty much any vertical structure in the state of Florida needs to be signed/sealed.

Originally Posted by rock

Why would you need an architect for a pole building?

Rock

**XstreamVking** · 01-11-2019, 10:19 AM

Rock, you ignore the poles and build your walls outside/inside the actual poles. (strike a happy medium) The poles only support the roof. I poured concrete 1' wide for the sill plate and built up to the trusses from there for wall framing. Bottom 8', everything is p.t. From 8'up it is yellow pine. Walls are T1-11 tongue and groove ply, painted inside and out before being put up. Attach walls to poles where you want using thru bolt hardware and 2x4 or 4x4 spacers. (mainly in the middle of the wall)