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Thread: 12' Cat Build

  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoffer View Post
    Its joined to the bulkhead and but joined to the other skin, I tried a few times to use one piece.......lets just say it was an expensive lesson. All the hardware is stainless, need a lot to hold that 3/8" ply curve tight.
    I dont know how you pulled it off with 1/2".
    What did you use to water tight your hatch?
    For all my seams, an epoxy fillet seam reinforced with fiberglass will be stronger than all the screws in the world lol. It also means less holes in the boat. I held it in place with copper wire (like sewn together). Once the copper was in, i could twist it with pliers to pull it in tight. I also used a long pipe clamp to pull the sides in while the glue dried. The one place I did use screws was the tunnel bottom up to the front abreast beam. You can see the screws in picture 3 underneath. Those are like 2.5" or 3" long screws. My 1/2" ply may have bent easier because it was very light weight African Okume mahogany marine ply. Lighter / less dense / easier to bend. Only 37 lbs per 4x8' sheet. https://www.boulterplywood.com/

    The hatch I have in the footwell / firewall is a purchased hatch. It's plastic, and about 20" wide by 10" tall. That keeps everything up front bone-dry.
    The rear hatch behind the seat isn't 100% waterproof. I just used some sticky tape rubber foam from the hardware store. it was the Double-D style like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-Ki...25GA/100081207
    I'll post pictures in the next post of how I built the hatch. I don't have any pictures of the weather-strip seal on it. That will have to wait till next spring lol.
    Last edited by home made tunnel; 02-12-2019 at 05:36 PM.

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  3. #47
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    So this is the rear hatch I made. What it doesn't show is the 1"x1" angle aluminum that I installed all around the inner edge, 1/2" under flush. The hatch comes down and rests on that 1x1 aluminum angle.
    I layed down painters tape on the angle, and on the boat parallel to the seams from angle to boat, applied Marine 5200 sealant, squeegeed into the corners, then pulled up the tape revealing a perfect fillet seam of 5200 silicon in the seam from aluminum angle to the boat. The angle was through-bolted to the boat by the way.
    Then I laid the rubber weatherstripping from home depot onto the aluminum angle, and the top hatch comes down and rests on the seal. So it's not 100% water tight, but if I ever stuffed the boat, the majority of the water would run off the top side. Wish I had more pictures of the seal.

    I tried to add a curve in the plywood anywhere I could - especially places that would see weight, like me standing on it. The curved hatch cover is MUCH stronger than a flat one. This doesn't flex at all. I guessed at the radius, and over-bent the hatch when installing the stiffeners underneath. When I pulled it out of the jig, it flexed back a tiny bit and matched perfectly to the hull. That was a good guess!
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    Last edited by home made tunnel; 02-12-2019 at 06:01 PM.

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  5. #48
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    Thanks Home made.... I think we are using two completely different build techniques for similar boats.
    l agree on the screws, only using methods I know work for me. The boat was designed to be built this way,mainly from my reading how to build. I don't think my wood working skills are at your level, I'm more comfortable with metal and engines.
    Thanks for the info on the hatch,I'm far from that but my mind is 10 steps ahead of where I am now. I am starting to skin the sides now but out of wood ( also using Okume) going sledding this weekend so I'll take a break......long weekend in Canada.
    Thanks again.

  6. #49
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    LOL I agree about the different techniques. And thanks for the compliment on my woodworking skills. I must say I am NOT a woodworker, nor ever considered myself. I too am much better with welding, metal, and all that jazz.
    Don't worry about 10 steps ahead - I was thinking about that stuff while I was still designing on a napkin! I still have that 90hp restored Force if you want it.

  7. #50
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    Thanks, Ill let you know on the motor when I get closer.
    I think ill put it in the water before rigging it and see how the balance is, put some weight where the engine and fuel tank will be to see what im dealing with.

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  9. #51
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  11. #52
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    PRogress! I think I see why you couldn't bend the plywood where you wanted to - it's a relatively sharp bend there. Mine were all gradual in comparison.
    Hey, more screws in front will help balance your center of gravity! Bonus.

    In addition to curving from front to back, it looks like there's a twist in yours too. nothing wrong with that, but VERY hard to do with plywood. I've learned you can either TWIST, or bend plywood. You can't do both at the same time. In this picture, on the left is how My boat was built. All the frames were parallel. I think yours is more like on the right.


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  12. #53
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    A little progress.....and I must be amazing,twisting and bending plywood.
    My new motto is if you use enough screws anything is possible, very sleight but its there.
    You have a good eye mine is definatly the diagram on the right, looks more impressive than the pictures....so far.

  13. #54
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    Pads look very flat at the rear, no dihedral?

  14. #55
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    There is 8 degrees.

  15. #56
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    8 degrees is close to the minimum acceptable for cat/tunnel hull as far as my research goes. The boat is small and an amalgamation of a few different designs. It's called the SLX3....The S and L are for sorry Lori (My wife's name) and the X is experimental......and its my third boat, she hates boats.

  16. #57
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    Flat is fast but too flat and you get a porpoise.

  17. #58
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    Yah, there is a fine line there. Balance and C G come in to play, everything has to work symbioticly to be great. That being said if for some reason it doesn't completely work out I'm cool with that.
    It won't be slow and I'll drive through it.

  18. #59
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    Love these projects I wish I had the time to do one, have you decided on power yet?

  19. #60
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    Not yet,but it should hold more than you think. May start with 60 to 90 then go from there.

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