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Thread: 12' Cat Build

  1. #16
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    Will do, thanks. My uncle was a Canadian national champ in grand prix hydros late 80's early 90's. I myself think you boat racers are crazy, I raced superbikes instead. Retired 10 years ago and now boat project to fill the void. Got hooked when I bought 21 super boat.....way to big and fast for Big Cedar lake. And I blew up the 225 merc, my bad.
    sorry.....went off on a tangent. Tends to happin while I'm sitting in the garage....with bee, while looking at bikes and a boat I should be working on.
    I am up for suggestions on what I should hang off the back of it though .

  2. #17
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    Nice boat, thanks for checking out what I'm doing.

  3. #18
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    Oh yah. That's light compared to what I have been looking at.

  4. #19
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    FMP. If its light and makes good power? It is designed for 20" shaft.....No motor well.

  5. #20
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    How much weight are you thinking you can hold?

    Cool project for sure !!
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

  6. #21
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    That's a 20" weight. 78 later , better lower. I know a couple folks who run them. Bill Edwards brother runs a built 90 on a 15' kneeldown @ 70-75 mph, he's 350lbs, not sure what the boat weighs.
    Anyway just shooting the breeze, looks good.

  7. #22
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    Transom is 2 1/4" thick reinforced top and bottom. Should be good for 300 plus pounds.

  8. #23
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    Hmmmm .... good candidate for an XS1500...thinking they weigh a bit under that w/pt.

    But at 12' long she's gonna set nose way up....No?
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

  9. #24
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    I'm shooting for 400 lbs ish. Plan is for nicer cockpit, left hand drive with controls in center console. Stereo etc.

  10. #25
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    Hull is fairly deep and wide for 12', center of gravity should be mid cockpit.

  11. #26
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    The plan is to have the boat run flat ish, like the big cats on the back 3rd of the hull. Not so much flying it like conventional tunnels. If the boat works properly it shouldn't need a lot,if any positive trim.....depending on set up.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hoffer View Post
    The plan is to have the boat run flat ish, like the big cats on the back 3rd of the hull. Not so much flying it like conventional tunnels. If the boat works properly it shouldn't need a lot,if any positive trim.....depending on set up.
    Mine 13.5' tunnel runs pretty flat - But I have a pair of 6" wide planning pads for the last 6' of the hull, with a 370 pound motor, and a jack plate. Gas tank in back too. Do you have any pictures of your steps on the bottom of the hull?

    I have a freshly rebuilt and restored 90hp Chrysler/Force triple you could throw on yours. Typical mercury wiring/controls/ignition are on it. I took off the 90 and went to a 120 for my red boat in my signature. The 90 is the one on it in that picture. (Black mercury lower and mid, White cowl, Chrysler/force powerhead).

  13. #28
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    I am planning on flipping it soon so I have no real pictures of the bottom of the hull. The back 3rd of the sponsons are an 8 degree angle so all most flat, 2 stepped sections start just after centre rearward. The sponsons will be skinned in sections, while the bow angle will need some creative woodworking/fiberglass to arrive at the shape I'm trying to achieve. The sides are fairly flat and straight forward as is the deck, should be fairly straight forward to cover. The cockpit sides, windshield, dash and centre console will go in last and contour to the deck.
    As far as power, I'm still not sure. Your Chrysler looks like it would work well on this boat.
    Did you glass over your boat or just the seams?
    what did you use to paint the frame..inner structure?

  14. #29
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    The entire boat is encapsulated in fiberglass cloth and resin. There is no exposed wood anywhere. The paint I used was wet-edge top-side paint from Jamestown Distributors. Paint was used on the top side, and inside.

    The bottom and hull sides is 100% covered in gelcoat.
    First, it was all covered in cloth and epoxy. Next, I did a couple coats of Gel coat high-build epoxy primer. Then I sprayed white Gel coat over the top, and did a LOT of wet sanding / cutting and buffing / polishing. If I were to do it again, I would have never used gelcoat on the outside and stuck with just the Wet-Edge primer on the whole boat.
    Another learning point was after I coated everything with epoxy/fiberglass, I would always have to do a second coat with epoxy to fill the weave of the fiberglass, or sand the weave down smooth. I learned of a product after I was done with the boat called Peel-Ply. Essentially it's fancy plastic wrap that you squeegee onto wet epoxy like window tint, and peel it off when the epoxy dries (like wax paper), and you get a reeeeally smooth coverage with minimal sanding afterwards.

    I also attached a couple pics of the 90hp motor I put back together. Used it maybe less than 6 hours after the rebuild before I found a 120hp local and swapped onto my red boat.

  15. #30
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    Thanks for all the information, every time I see pictures of your build it gives me more to think about.
    I notice you don't have many or any battens, you had mentioned in your thread your boat is all 1/2".
    My bulkheads are 3/4" and I want to skin it with 1/4", I haven't bought the wood yet as I'm still on the fence about it.
    As well I am testing some out side the box finishes for the hull.
    Nice motor, would probably work really well on this boat.

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