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Thread: STV rubrail replacement ?
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12-10-2018, 09:28 AM #1
STV rubrail replacement ?
Anyone recently put new taco metals J type 3/4 rubrail P/N A11-151 on an stv? going to order some but says on the web site must be professionally bent only.. not sure what that means.. mandrel bent or what? The nose area on the stv is a fairly tight radius.. Im sure i can find something of the same radius to bend it around but the stuff aint cheap so don't want to buy and end up tossing it in the scrap bin...The original is really soft,bends easily and looks like the taco stuff but just wondering if any one has used/bent this stuff ,Thanks.. Dave
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12-12-2018, 07:49 PM #2
I had a similar situation with my little boat it has metal rub rail bent around the corners , the alum looked like crap but I decided to sand prime and paint to match the boat and bought the rubber insert from taco, I’d try a little piece and see how it bends it may make it to tight at the the bend to get the rubber insert in, my rubber was not fun to put in, heat gun was my best friend, good luck!
2003 mirage ski racer with e-tec power
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12-12-2018, 08:25 PM #3Supporting Member
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I used the taco rail on mine when we painted it. The radius around the fork is no problem, the one that runs on the inside of the fork and back to the deck tip is tricky. Randy (wildman) did mine and it came out pretty good. I would consider having him do it and use one inch screws so that you grab both of the shoe box flanges.
Joe
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12-13-2018, 06:37 AM #45000 RPM
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I used the same trim on my Critchfield build, it is very easy to work with. Even though the STV has much more complex bends, it should be no trouble. Wally had a jig that he used to bend it.
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H2OPERF thanked for this post
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12-13-2018, 10:32 AM #5
Joe the inside fork bend is the main one i'm worried about but as long as it doesn't crack i think i can get it done.. also going to put as many machine screws with lock nuts on the back side as i can get ( or the wife can get to) so they don't keep coming loose . Thanks for the help guys.. Dave
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12-13-2018, 12:20 PM #6
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H2OPERF thanked for this post
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12-13-2018, 02:06 PM #7
That's not a bad idea, wonder if i can get them in stainless, i taped a wrench to a pipe on the procomp and got nuts on most of it but it was a real pain, the tee nuts would pull into the wood strip and have some more area than the nuts. gonna look at mcmaster carr.. Thanks Dave
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12-13-2018, 02:19 PM #8
mc master was expensive found in bags of 25 on ebay stainless steel for 10.00 on order, Going to pull them in then remove screw put back in with some 5200 and done, Thanks man.. good idea
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STV_Keith liked this post
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12-14-2018, 11:39 PM #9
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12-15-2018, 05:18 PM #10
Cool... sounds good , i will try my luck next week lol..
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12-28-2018, 12:33 PM #11
Well i think i got the hard part done... it bends easy until u have a tight bend at a hole then it wants to kink at the hole..
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12-28-2018, 01:14 PM #12
looks good
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12-28-2018, 01:59 PM #13
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12-28-2018, 03:49 PM #14
Who knows if it will run LOL...
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12-28-2018, 03:52 PM #15
Lots a wires ..
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dgscroggs, baja200merk liked this post
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