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  1. #121
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    Yes

  2. #122
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    I'm a little confused but,the stringers are complete and finished.They were bedded into a Cabosile paste then tabbed to the floor with a 10oz 4" tape then covered in a 8 1/2 oz biax that also runs out onto the floor.The rear is notched into the transom 3/16 with one course of 1700 and two of 10oz the front is just tabbed to seat box with multiple layers of 8 1/2 oz If you're wondering iif they will run Forword of the seat box the answer is no,When I'm finished I will post a summery of cost,time,and why I did what I did.The center of this boat now has three layers of 1700 mat,one layer of 8 1/2 oz biax and one inch of balsa!

  3. #123
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  4. Thanks outasite thanked for this post
  5. #124
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  6. #125
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  7. #126
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  8. #127
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  9. #128
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  10. Likes W2F a V-King, NICE PAIR liked this post
  11. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by FUJIMO View Post
    yes , he has a pilot's license !!!
    why ask me ?


  12. Likes NICE PAIR liked this post
  13. #130
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    And builds small airplanes ....
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

  14. #131
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    Phase one is complete.Time to flip it and tidy up the bottom.Click image for larger version. 

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  15. Likes W2F a V-King, tnelsmn, rjdubiel, NICE PAIR liked this post
  16. #132
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    A short summary to date.Time three months,around 225 hours.Material,twenty yards of 50 inch 1700 biax and 8 1/2 oz biax,7gallons of epoxy,2 sheets of plywood (with a lot leftover for the next project) seven 2x4' sheets of balsa,and a ton of brushes,cups,stir sticks sandpaper,grinding wheels, ect,ect $2700.00 A few things worth noting.Removing good balsa core SUCKS!--- I've learned to love epoxy---increase gelcote catalist from 2%to3% below 65 degrees.Under my seat and at the drain plug I left some clear glass that I can see the balsa through,a good way to detect water in the core.Extended the four outer stringers three to four inches.I ran two layers of 1700 plus an 8 1/2 oz cloth 50 inches wide full length forward until the corners were near the rub rail.This addresses the flexing at the hard point in front of the seat box and allows a (controlled flex) across all of the strakes.I considered extending the stringers,and adding more core.But in the end decided that there has to be some give somewhere,and core and strakes don't like to give.Also keep in mind that the top deck supports that attaches to the side stringers are very important in the overall strength,be sure they are tight,and kept that way.Anyway enough rambling,time to get to work on the bottom.Got some cool stuff to do down there. Here is a picture of the simple,but I believe effective front repair.Click image for larger version. 

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  17. Thanks NICE PAIR, V pads, LakeFever thanked for this post
  18. #133
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    Well the bottom turned out to be more work than planned! I knew that as built the front bow area was thin,wasn't till I got to repairing some "white glass" up there I found out how thin! Also quite a bit of damage was done removing the core that was not rotten.so most of the gel neded to be ground away,then the intire bottom covered with a coating of epoxy rubbed on then wiped off.After that cured then another sanding back to polyester.Im now almost ready for some duratec primer on the repairs.Click image for larger version. 

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  19. Likes tnelsmn, texasvector, LakeFever liked this post
  20. #134
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    Hmm interesting trick rubbing the epoxy over it to seal it up I dig that idea! Mine is so thin you can see through the hull if you climb under the deck, freaked me out a little. Are you going to gel the bottom again or paint with base/clear urethane or?
    Hydrostream dreamin

  21. #135
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    Is the sap running?
    why ask me ?


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