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  1. #76
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    It looks like he is just pre-coating the balsa first with resin, then once that tacks up he will be putting down the glass. Balsa sucks up plenty of resin, so pre-coat the balsa always first, let that soak in, then add more resin and glass. With epoxy this is easy, with poly resin, you don't get that much time so you need to work fast with poly or vinyl resin.
    1973 Viper - sold
    1978 Viking - sold
    1995 XB02

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  3. #77
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    Wow,that was a big piece to get down and straight! Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #78
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    Your work looks awesome! Thanks for sharing your progress.

  6. #79
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    Looking great ! That glass laid in one piece HAS to be strong
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

    Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

  7. #80
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    Thanks,It was a long day.Took a while to get the drain fitting in place and pulled back to seal.Its hard to work that much 17oz mat at one time and keep it wet. but not to wet,get the air out,and and and.Now it's on to repairing the last cracked stringer. There will be be a splice right behind the seat box pics to follow.

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  9. #81
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    Keep up the good work Bob! Yours is one of my favorite 'Streams, nice to see it done right!
    Josh Peterson

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  11. #82
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    Removed the stringer section,and took the rest of the day off. Decided to cook off the epoxy,just to be sure it set properly.Will give it twenty four hours of good heat.Then back at it tomorrow.Click image for larger version. 

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  13. #83
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    Another way other than heat for 24 hours is the way I do this, I think I finished my vking core about 5 years ago........ So she should be cured and good to have the floor put in soon!!!!

    Looks great Bob, I wish you did this 10 years ago so I could have used your techniques.
    Last edited by rjdubiel; 01-18-2019 at 04:11 PM.
    1973 Viper - sold
    1978 Viking - sold
    1995 XB02

  14. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjdubiel View Post
    Another way other than heat for 24 hours is the way I do this, I think I finished my vking core about 5 years ago........ So she should be cured and good to have the floor put in soon!!!!

    Looks great Bob, I wish you did this 10 years ago so I could have used your techniques.
    Well the bright side, is the slower epoxy cures the stronger it is.So by now your Vking should be bullet proof!!!

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  16. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by outasite View Post
    Wow,that was a big piece to get down and straight! Click image for larger version. 

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    Again I am so impressed with this resto I learned a ton thank you for sharing. Regarding this big single piece of glass how did you go abouts installing it? Did you start dry positioned and wet through it or?
    Hydrostream dreamin

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  18. #86
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    It was cut and fitted dry.Then removed and rolled onto a 1 1/2" pvc tube. The dry balsa was then given a heavy coat of epoxy at 9AM another at 10:30.At noon the fabric was laid on a plastic covered work bench and rolled,from the bottom up with a very heavy coat of epoxy,then rolled back onto the PVC tube.Then another coat of epoxy on the balsa.The 1700 was then rolled out in the boat from the rear to the front,working from the center out and foreword.There is no resin added from the top.As you roll,the resin will come to the top.Its much easier to bring the resin to the top than try to push it to the bottom.Not saying it's the best way but it has worked well for me.

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  20. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by outasite View Post
    It was cut and fitted dry.Then removed and rolled onto a 1 1/2" pvc tube. The dry balsa was then given a heavy coat of epoxy at 9AM another at 10:30.At noon the fabric was laid on a plastic covered work bench and rolled,from the bottom up with a very heavy coat of epoxy,then rolled back onto the PVC tube.Then another coat of epoxy on the balsa.The 1700 was then rolled out in the boat from the rear to the front,working from the center out and foreword.There is no resin added from the top.As you roll,the resin will come to the top.Its much easier to bring the resin to the top than try to push it to the bottom.Not saying it's the best way but it has worked well for me.
    Genius, very helpful and well explained thank you!
    Hydrostream dreamin

  21. #88
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    Today was spent fitting stringers.A simple jig was made to keep the stringers straight. The Hydrotec plywood is great to work with,Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	428645 and meets British Standard 1088 (Good Stuff) And is much stronger than OE. nine ply vs five ply exterior building material.And not as heavy as I thought.The gap under the stringer will be held to less than 1/8". OE was 1/4" plus.They will be set in a bed of Cabosil,OE was not bedded.

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  23. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by W2F a V-King View Post
    Yes, my 79 production V-King (Not a Comp) had dry mat over rotted core. It also had open expansion holes on top of the unsealed foam filled float boxes, and I dug out a lot of wet foam. Needless to say the boxes got deleted.
    My 79 Viking had the core replaced by a previous owner, but the foam boxes in the wings are still there.

    Is there any way to know if mine are water-logged?

    2nd question, my boat lives EVERY day and night in an insulated garage. Only gets about 10-15 HOURS (1-1.5 hours at a time) a year on the water, then right back on the trailer and back inside. Could my foam boxes dry out if they ever got water in them?

  24. #90
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    You can buy a moisture meter from Lowes for about $50. It will read through fiberglass. Very commonly used on big sportfishing wood core boats built in NC.

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