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Thread: Well,I concede.Almost!!
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01-17-2019, 12:04 PM #76
It looks like he is just pre-coating the balsa first with resin, then once that tacks up he will be putting down the glass. Balsa sucks up plenty of resin, so pre-coat the balsa always first, let that soak in, then add more resin and glass. With epoxy this is easy, with poly resin, you don't get that much time so you need to work fast with poly or vinyl resin.
1973 Viper - sold
1978 Viking - sold
1995 XB02
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tnelsmn thanked for this posttexasvector liked this post
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01-17-2019, 04:34 PM #77
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01-17-2019, 07:53 PM #78
Your work looks awesome! Thanks for sharing your progress.
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01-17-2019, 08:02 PM #79
Looking great ! That glass laid in one piece HAS to be strongJames H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King
Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761
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01-17-2019, 08:07 PM #80
Thanks,It was a long day.Took a while to get the drain fitting in place and pulled back to seal.Its hard to work that much 17oz mat at one time and keep it wet. but not to wet,get the air out,and and and.Now it's on to repairing the last cracked stringer. There will be be a splice right behind the seat box pics to follow.
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nitro_rat, W2F a V-King liked this post
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01-17-2019, 11:26 PM #81
Keep up the good work Bob! Yours is one of my favorite 'Streams, nice to see it done right!
Josh Peterson
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W2F a V-King liked this post
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01-18-2019, 03:42 PM #82
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W2F a V-King liked this post
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01-18-2019, 04:00 PM #83
Another way other than heat for 24 hours is the way I do this, I think I finished my vking core about 5 years ago........ So she should be cured and good to have the floor put in soon!!!!
Looks great Bob, I wish you did this 10 years ago so I could have used your techniques.Last edited by rjdubiel; 01-18-2019 at 04:11 PM.
1973 Viper - sold
1978 Viking - sold
1995 XB02
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01-18-2019, 04:43 PM #84
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01-20-2019, 12:00 PM #85
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NICE PAIR liked this post
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01-20-2019, 01:17 PM #86
It was cut and fitted dry.Then removed and rolled onto a 1 1/2" pvc tube. The dry balsa was then given a heavy coat of epoxy at 9AM another at 10:30.At noon the fabric was laid on a plastic covered work bench and rolled,from the bottom up with a very heavy coat of epoxy,then rolled back onto the PVC tube.Then another coat of epoxy on the balsa.The 1700 was then rolled out in the boat from the rear to the front,working from the center out and foreword.There is no resin added from the top.As you roll,the resin will come to the top.Its much easier to bring the resin to the top than try to push it to the bottom.Not saying it's the best way but it has worked well for me.
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01-20-2019, 03:09 PM #87
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01-20-2019, 03:23 PM #88
Today was spent fitting stringers.A simple jig was made to keep the stringers straight. The Hydrotec plywood is great to work with, and meets British Standard 1088 (Good Stuff) And is much stronger than OE. nine ply vs five ply exterior building material.And not as heavy as I thought.The gap under the stringer will be held to less than 1/8". OE was 1/4" plus.They will be set in a bed of Cabosil,OE was not bedded.
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tnelsmn thanked for this post
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01-21-2019, 08:27 AM #895000 RPM
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My 79 Viking had the core replaced by a previous owner, but the foam boxes in the wings are still there.
Is there any way to know if mine are water-logged?
2nd question, my boat lives EVERY day and night in an insulated garage. Only gets about 10-15 HOURS (1-1.5 hours at a time) a year on the water, then right back on the trailer and back inside. Could my foam boxes dry out if they ever got water in them?
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01-21-2019, 08:33 AM #906000 RPM
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You can buy a moisture meter from Lowes for about $50. It will read through fiberglass. Very commonly used on big sportfishing wood core boats built in NC.