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  1. #1
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    New to me Etec 200 setup help

    Hey guys, I'm new to the forum but have read a lot of great threads in the past. I'm looking for some setup help. I have a 97 Stratos 282 (18'3", 1400lb) bass boat that had a 97 Faststrike 150. The Faststrike blew up on me this past year so I ended up picking up a 2012 Etec 200 (non H.O.) and I have a couple of questions.

    I'm looking for prop/gearing suggestions to get the most our of my setup.

    My mechanic has custom gears that are 1.78:1 instead of the standard 1.86:1 and I'm just curious what everyone's thoughts are on which gears would work best for overall performance. I like to go fast however I know it's not a high performance hull, but I'd love to get 70mph out of it but I'm not sure that is going to happen. I also make a lot of long runs where I'm running 3/4 throttle to save on fuel.

    My numbers with the Faststrike were:

    24 Raker II
    no jackplate
    5200 rpm
    60mph

    I will be adding a 6" manual jackplate when the new motor is mounted.

  2. #2
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    Stick with 1:86 gears. JMO

    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

  3. #3
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    I agree stick with the 1.86 gears. You wont have a problem finding tall enough props to keep the motor off the rev limiter with your boat/motor combo. The jackplate is a great addition, install a water pressure gauge if you dont already have one. Between the new motor, jackplate, and just spending time experimenting with props and different engine heights you should see a noticeable gain.
    Dan Cario

    1994 STV Mod-VP w/225HO Ficht Evinrude
    1987 22' Velocity w/225HO Evinrude E-Tec

  4. #4
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    I wouldn't spend any money on gears or a jackplate until you have a chance to run the thing with the new motor... the extra horsepower will probably get you to 70 mph by itself.

  5. #5
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    I doubt 50hp will gain 10mph without a jackplate and some setup.

    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

  6. #6
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    I already have the jackplate as I bought it just before my old motor blew up. I do have a water pressure gauge installed already. It sounds like I will be best to just leave the lower unit as is and start testing props to see what works best. The only problem is where I live it's hard to find props big enough in stock to test without having to order one because most guys run aluminum boats and fiberglass walleye boats. I was hoping with the 1.78 gears I could keep my existing 24 pitch prop and see where I'm at then get it worked if need be or at least know what size prop to look for. I'm thinking the 24 will be too small for the new motor but I guess I won't know until i give it a try.

  7. #7
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    I'd start with the stock gears and the 24 Raker you have. A prop calculator shows you were at 6% slip before, which might be a bit optimistic but not impossible. At any rate, 6000 rpm would get you close to 70 at the same slip. My theory is the extra HP and setback should do 70+.

    Watch your water pressure with the jackplate. I bet you don't have to go high enough to get into trouble to optimize speed, but it would be better to know you have pressure.

  8. #8
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    I have a nice used 26 raker II its pretty tight (low slip) Pm me if your interested.
    Quartershot T-3R 15" 3.5L E-Tec 1.62 Sportmaster


  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by David View Post
    I'd start with the stock gears and the 24 Raker you have. A prop calculator shows you were at 6% slip before, which might be a bit optimistic but not impossible. At any rate, 6000 rpm would get you close to 70 at the same slip. My theory is the extra HP and setback should do 70+.

    Watch your water pressure with the jackplate. I bet you don't have to go high enough to get into trouble to optimize speed, but it would be better to know you have pressure.
    Good to know, thank you. What rpm range should I be looking for? I had 5800 in my head but if you say 6000 is fine that's good to know. I know they like to be at the top of the rpm range and I believe the limiter is around 6100rpm? I suppose if I am running a bit high in the rpm range I could get some prop work done (add cup or have it pitched to 25") if need be as it will be cheaper than buying a new prop and it will be better than a new one.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by baja200merk View Post
    I have a nice used 26 raker II its pretty tight (low slip) Pm me if your interested.
    I won't be able to run the boat until April at the earliest to see if I will need a bigger prop or not. Thank you though.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Strong View Post
    I doubt 50hp will gain 10mph without a jackplate and some setup.

    Dave
    It will "on paper", it did on my 20' Enchanter, and it does in the Tunnelboat simulator software (150hp vs 200hp shows 52.8 mph vs 62.3 mph on a 1800# Stratos 21' bass boat)... but he would have to try it to find out for sure.

  12. #12
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    Keep in mind that McGinnis was running a 150 Faststrike. Those Eagle motors are a pretty stout 150 so its not quite a 50hp difference between his old motor and the new one. But at the end of the day 70mph out of a 18' Bass Boat with a 200hp is very obtainable just gonna requiring some setup/testing.
    Dan Cario

    1994 STV Mod-VP w/225HO Ficht Evinrude
    1987 22' Velocity w/225HO Evinrude E-Tec

  13. #13
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    My reasoning is speed is proportional to the square root of HP. It's true for aero and water drag, and close for HP. If the new engine is the small block 200 then it's probably a relatively weak 200. The 150 Fastrike may well have been a strong 150. So maybe less than 60Xsqrt(200/150). But the jackplate should offset that, so my money (ha!) is still on 70

    The advantage of propping to hit max rpm with no load is you still have acceleration when the boat has a load. We have not hit 6000 with our 150 HO Etec but have come close. I think we have been power limited before we reach the limiter, so I am not taking my own advice about pitch. The rev limiter on the 115 HO we had before would hit 5850 most days, but occasionally more.

    If you especially like looking at shiny props on your wall (I do) my suggestions would be a 24/25/26 Trophy with the BRP insert to run on your motor or a 26 Raker. But the right thing would be to try your current prop to set a baseline before spending money.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by David View Post
    the right thing would be to try your current prop to set a baseline before spending money.
    Josh Peterson

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by David View Post
    My reasoning is speed is proportional to the square root of HP. It's true for aero and water drag, and close for HP. If the new engine is the small block 200 then it's probably a relatively weak 200. The 150 Fastrike may well have been a strong 150. So maybe less than 60Xsqrt(200/150). But the jackplate should offset that, so my money (ha!) is still on 70

    The advantage of propping to hit max rpm with no load is you still have acceleration when the boat has a load. We have not hit 6000 with our 150 HO Etec but have come close. I think we have been power limited before we reach the limiter, so I am not taking my own advice about pitch. The rev limiter on the 115 HO we had before would hit 5850 most days, but occasionally more.

    If you especially like looking at shiny props on your wall (I do) my suggestions would be a 24/25/26 Trophy with the BRP insert to run on your motor or a 26 Raker. But the right thing would be to try your current prop to set a baseline before spending money.

    The proportional thing goes out the door around 60mph.

    Dave
    1980 Cougar 19 tunnel,90 2.4L Bridgeport EFI in middle of restoration.
    1988 BAJA Sunsport 186, 96 225 Pro Max
    79 12' Auminum, 95 Merc 9.9
    RIP Stu
    "So many idiots, so few bullets"

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