Glastron Carlson CVX16 needs all the wood and lots of info

[LetsBoat]

If its help you can see my16 footer last winter project here:

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JpakNJNTlFVG5R

https://www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?334442-Resto-1987-Cadorette-Ski-Master-160


Same style boat

Thanks for all the pictures. It helps alot to see how others have split boats in half. Im going to do everything I can to keep from splitting this 1. I'm afraid I will damage the deck really bad in the process or even worse damage the windshield . Great looking boat by the way I bet its a strong wave pounder now.

[LMT383]

Yes better than new Pull strong, solid hull, nice handling, a pleasure to ski behind with my dad behind the wheel. A couple of flaws corrected this autum. Its been a roller coaster project but i dont regret it. Its the new star at the lake now haha

[LetsBoat]

It is a nice rig. I've looked at it a dozen times prolly. Guess xmas kept me from buying. Glws

The deeper I get into this CVX project the more I want to sale the Vegas without the motor. I could make you a good deal. Just a idea.

[W2F a V-King]

Great project and cool boat for sure. Me loves the old I6 motors...that appears to be a 76-77 year

I bet that windshield will come off pretty easy, and the deck looks like it could come off easy as well.
It sure would make restoring the internal structure, floor, stringers, transom and core if it has that a lot easier.

[LetsBoat]

Great project and cool boat for sure. Me loves the old I6 motors...that appears to be a 76-77 year

I bet that windshield will come off pretty easy, and the deck looks like it could come off easy as well.
It sure would make restoring the internal structure, floor, stringers, transom and core if it has that a lot easier.

yes this is a good running 1977 Tower 150hp. I don't have any experience with these motors and I would love to rig this cvx with a XR6 when its complete but that decision hasn't been made yet.
Pulling the windshield is easy the storage of of it is the scary part. I'm afraid it will deform if not mounted. Lots of planing left to do but I am making slow progress.

Vinyl ester resin, cabosil, 1/4" chop strand, 1708 and 1.5 oz mat is being shipped to me right now so I can do some reinforcements on the under side of the deck so it doesn't fold up when I try to remove it.

[W2F a V-King]

Nice...I'm restoring an old 1975 Bluestripe 150 HP I6 that came off a 17' CVX.

Turn the windshield upside down and hang it from the ceiling in your garage or basement. I've got 2 hanging now, a Vector and a V-King.

[LetsBoat]

Making slow progress. Almost all of the floor is out. This freaking sucks but its totally gonna be worth every minute.

[LetsBoat]

I want to ask pro advice on the plan I have so far. Building this to hold a v6 and smash through moderately rough water. About 60 mph is targeted top speed. Will be using Vinyl Ester Resin and 1 layer of 1708 then 1 layer 1.5 chop over the entire interior of the hull before anything else.
1. One center stringer seams inadequate to me, but I'm not sure. Should I do two stringers in the strake pockets on each side of the center and delete the center stringer. Or new center stringer plus one on each side of that? Or?
2. The center stinger was a 2x4 factory. Will it be sufficient to rebuild this way of should I build plywood stringers?
3. Factory floor was 1/2" glassed on 1 side. Plan to do 1/2" plywood again and glass both sides before installing, is this sufficient?

Far more questions to come but all this is on the mind as of now. Thanks for any and all help and input.

[W2F a V-King]

I want to ask pro advice on the plan I have so far. Building this to hold a v6 and smash through moderately rough water. About 60 mph is targeted top speed. Will be using Vinyl Ester Resin and 1 layer of 1708 then 1 layer 1.5 chop over the entire interior of the hull before anything else.
1. One center stringer seams inadequate to me, but I'm not sure. Should I do two stringers in the strake pockets on each side of the center and delete the center stringer. Or new center stringer plus one on each side of that? Or?
2. The center stinger was a 2x4 factory. Will it be sufficient to rebuild this way of should I build plywood stringers?
3. Factory floor was 1/2" glassed on 1 side. Plan to do 1/2" plywood again and glass both sides before installing, is this sufficient?

Far more questions to come but all this is on the mind as of now. Thanks for any and all help and input.

One mans suggestions about another mans project could be risky....Ha Ha, but take these with a grain of salt.....

1- I wouldn't delete the center stringer as it's part of the pad/keel. Don't see a problem adding a stringer either side of the keel, and on the strakes would be a good place. Make them to tie into the floor as well. I would consider tying the stringer (s) into the transom as well as the floor, seeing as how your replacing the transom too. This will help spread the load of a larger heavier, more powerful motor throughout the back of the boat.

2- If your going to use wood, laminated layers marine plywood and glass would be better than lumber, imo. Or build a box and glass it it in.
all kinds of ways to do that.

3- That's plenty sufficient maybe overkill? But if glassing both sides of the floor and if you add the two extra stringers tied into the floor, you could likely go with a thinner floor.

As far as plywood, there is an aviation grade plywood another member here is using in his restore. It is almost rot free and has more ply's than marine plywood. I'll see if I can get the name of it....I forgot what it was called, but it sounded good, and strong.

[W2F a V-King]

Here is a link to a current Competition V-King being re-cored, He is very experienced, and this is a thread to follow for sure!

https://www.screamandfly.com/showthr...concede-Almost!!

This plywood came up in a conversation I had with him and the name of that plywood is called "Hydrotek" http://theworkbench.com/plywood.php#marineply.

[GregAdams]

Plywood is a great when you need fibre orientation in two directions. When a builder uses it for stringers that are only 4 inches high, there is only one advantage. It is cheaper than doing it right.
If you are looking to use wood in your stringers western red cedar is a good choice. Clear grain and low density (350 kg/cubic metre). It is durable and has good dimensional stability. Plywood is not the best choice. It is heavy (650 kg/cubic metre). You will need to scarph two pieces to get the length. Most importantly, almost half of the fibres are vertical, which is ok if your stringers are a foot high. But when your stringers are so low you want all your grain running fore and aft. In other words, ply is twice as heavy and you need to use more glass over the ply because it is not as strong longitudinally.
I am assuming you are concerned about weight. If not, do what most production builders do and throw a heap of plywood and glass in it and ignore what I just said... lol

[XstreamVking]

What about stringers made of marine ply laminated together? 2 pcs of 1/2''marine ply with glass between would give lots of longitudinal strength right?

[FMP]

In regards to the cedar, surface oils prep. I believe epoxy with preparations is the better choice.

[GregAdams]

FMP. If you have had structural failures with Western Red Cedar, I would like to learn from your experiences. I haven't had any problems so far. What would you suggest that is available there? The main criteria is straight grain and clear of knots and good adhesion of course.
Xstream. A laminated beam is a better option than a either a single piece or laminated plywood.
I have heard some inboard builders use LVL's for the engine bearers. I can't recommend it though because I haven't done it myself.

But I don't think that is the best option for outboard hulls. I only recommend something I have done many times and know it works.

[tomaswilson]

This can be used for wood kitchen countertops .